Adirondack chairs

[BillyJack]

Another one of the projects I got to a point and wasn't sure I wanted to use all my Sapele on. Stopped and think Im gonna use it to get rid of it. 

 

The base has been an issue. I borrowed a sample chair from a relative but took it back before I got the holes, etc on the base pattern. After a couple days of refiguring,adjusting and rebuilding I think I've got it. 

 

The bases are treated for ground contact.

 

[lew]

Looks like it will be really comfortable 

[Grandpadave52]

Nicely done BJ. You planning any type of finish or leaving natural?

[BillyJack]

Have been discussing tung oil, but concerned about residue bleeding onto clothes..

[PeteM]

1 hour ago, BillyJack said:

Have been discussing tung oil, but concerned about residue bleeding onto clothes..

I painted all mine, and was glad to be done with it for a decade.  I never liked "natural" color in pine/fir.  We got some runner pads that made for more comfort, and eventually got furniture covers for the off-season.  fwiw

[BillyJack]

The sample chair was painted. Not a pretty site. I could save a lot of nice Sapele using treated if I was to paint, but then it would just be just any other chair..

 

[BillyJack]

I pulled the planer out. Even in an acclimated shop I  got some rust from lack of use. 

 

 

Edited August 24, 2022 by BillyJack

[BillyJack]

Planer blades arent that new , but not that old. 

 

I can live with it. What sanders are for.

 

[Grandpadave52]

FWIW, treated wood does similar for me too. Seems the resin + treating builds up on the knives.

[Cal]

If you are wanting a clear finish that will hold up outside why not try the deep base paint with no tint?  In theory a clear finish with the durability of paint.

I've not done it myself to give any real world results...

[BillyJack]

I've been looking for some inexpensive chair covers. Something to keep tge weather off the Sapele when not in use..

[Gerald]

3 hours ago, Cal said:

If you are wanting a clear finish that will hold up outside why not try the deep base paint with no tint?  In theory a clear finish with the durability of paint.

I've not done it myself to give any real world results...

I have heard this about Olympic base but I think they stopped making that particular one.

[PeteM]

3 hours ago, Cal said:

If you are wanting a clear finish that will hold up outside why not try the deep base paint with no tint?  In theory a clear finish with the durability of paint.

I've not done it myself to give any real world results...

I actually did this once, by mistake (3 gallons worth before my helpers clued me in!).  I promptly painted over it (with tint), so I can't attest to longevity, but the color was a sort of "muddy", like multiple coats of satin poly.     

      Covers:  I found some inexpensive ones on Amz, purpose being to keep dust off during long non-use in the summer (= about 4 months), plus some rain shield.  The chairs looked almost brand new when I gave them to the kids.  I'd also come up with  side table and footrest designs.  Nice set.  

[Fred W. Hargis Jr]

The untinted paint idea was put forth by Jim Kull over at the defunct Wood magazine forum (at least that's where I got it) and then spread around even more by Mickley. At that time Jim was (I think) the finishing editor at Wood. He (Kull) was always careful to explain not all the paint bases would work, and they needed to be tested to see if they dried clear. His test was to insert a paint paddle, and then wipe it off...if it looked clear you were good to go. He recommended the Olympic exterior oil base #5, and i can tell you it worked very well as described. It looked very much like an oil based varnish, with the warm (or amber) color. I don't know if the Olympic was discontinued, but i can't find it anywhere...I had bought mine at Lowes. Since then I've looked for a replacement and so far haven't found one. I did try some SW All Surface oil base and the results were, well, miserable. It had a very opaque look in a color i can't even describe. With the movement away from oil paint altogether it's getting harder to find any paint that might work. I did rad a test a fellow did with SW A100 exterior untinted base (deep color), this is an acrylic water based formula...and the pics I saw and his description was that it worked very well. It does look milky in the can, but dries quite clear and still has the UV protection. He had on an outdoor piece for 2 years with no failure. I have now switched to McCloskey's Man 'O War marine spar varnish for outdoor finishes. It's relatively inexpensive, and does a very good job...though I'm sure it's not in the same league as Epifanes or some of the more expensive brands.

Edited August 25, 2022 by Fred W. Hargis Jr

[kmealy]

PAINT ON A CLEAR EXTERIOR FINISH.pdf

[Fred W. Hargis Jr]

I'm glad you had that, Keith...I couldn't find a copy of it.

[Gerald]

6 hours ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

The untinted paint idea was put forth by Jim Kull over at the defunct Wood magazine forum (at least that's where I got it) and then spread around even more by Mickley. At that time Jim was (I think) the finishing editor at Wood. He (Kull) was always careful to explain not all the paint bases would work, and they needed to be tested to see if they dried clear. His test was to insert a paint paddle, and then wipe it off...if it looked clear you were good to go. He recommended the Olympic exterior oil base #5, and i can tell you it worked very well as described. It looked very much like an oil based varnish, with the warm (or amber) color. I don't know if the Olympic was discontinued, but i can't find it anywhere...I had bought mine at Lowes. Since then I've looked for a replacement and so far haven't found one. I did try some SW All Surface oil base and the results were, well, miserable. It had a very opaque look in a color i can't even describe. With the movement away from oil paint altogether it's getting harder to find any paint that might work. I did rad a test a fellow did with SW A100 exterior untinted base (deep color), this is an acrylic water based formula...and the pics I saw and his description was that it worked very well. It does look milky in the can, but dries quite clear and still has the UV protection. He had on an outdoor piece for 2 years with no failure. I have now switched to McCloskey's Man 'O War marine spar varnish for outdoor finishes. It's relatively inexpensive, and does a very good job...though I'm sure it's not in the same league as Epifanes or some of the more expensive brands.

Fred that is exactly where I heard it and don't know where but did see a post of another fellow said Olympic was D/C.

[Dianajk]

Recently I have done painting with Exterior latex enamel paint. Had a good experience!
This is the best type of paint to use. You need to know though that before you can apply it on your Adirondack chairs, you need to properly prime it with a high quality primer. This is one of the most durable types of paints around.

[BillyJack]

....

 

[kmealy]

Two of my sons-in-laws have used One-Time wood finish on some outdoor projects with success.  It's on the expensive side but contains no thinners that just evaporate away and is UV cured.

 

https://onetimewood.com/