49 minutes ago, lew said:

twist the rougher so the cutter is at about a 45° angle from horizonta

I stumbled on that when I was screwing around when I was trying to get the feel of the big chisels. But I also noticed that it digs in quickly.

2 minutes ago, smitty10101 said:

But I also noticed that it digs in quickly.

I think that may have been because of the square vs. radiused cutter shape. Still have to be careful with the radius cutter- it will catch also.

15 minutes ago, Gerald said:

how much tear out fo you have , 1/16 or less?

Yes---it looks like pox marks. Like you're looking into the end of a straw not like you had a catch. But when you run your finger over the grain it feels rough. I guess similar to stroking a cat's hair backwards. Best explanation I gave think of right now.

2 minutes ago, lew said:

square vs. radiused cutter shape.

Only have the radius--R4 that's on the tools now.

Have a R2 NR in the bag waiting to go onto the tool tomorrow

The 2R has a bit more curve than the 4R so the corners aren't quite as close to the work when the center of the arc touches.

 

Can you post a picture of what you are turning?

10 minutes ago, smitty10101 said:

Tell that to SWMBO!

She turns pens and equates bowls & pens equally. Trying to tell her that it doesn't have to be ultra smooth is useless and not recommended.

Ok here is what you can tell her on bowls sand to 320 or 400and as long as the surface visible scratches are removed the finish will give a silky feel when buffed after curing. It is the finish treatment that give the feel after proper initial sanding. 

1 minute ago, Gerald said:

Ok here is what you can tell her on bowls

I'm not sure if he has a bed in the shop, Gerald 

2 minutes ago, lew said:

I'm not sure if he has a bed in the shop

I don't, nor do I have a dog house.

5 minutes ago, lew said:

Can you post a picture of what you are turning?

Soon---tomorrow?

Bowl #1

 

This is finished. sorry for the glare.

Bowl #2

 

Unfinished, but sanded to 3000

 

The first thing I see is the spalting. That is notorious for tear out. I’ve used CA to stabilize it to help reduce the tearing. I recently tried using a 50/50 mix of lacquer and lacquer thinner. Seemed to work pretty well, too. 

I feel your pain on this. Those are pretty deep pock marks. When that happens, it is often easier to go back over the surface with light cut to get the surface smooth 

3 hours ago, smitty10101 said:

When I first read your reply I thought you were kidding. But after a reread I got it. Novel idea. Thks

 

Someone here mentioned the benefits of reversing the lathe.  To test this without buying a lathe that could be reverse this is method I used.  It worked, still have not bought a new lathe.  Or won the lottery, or had a wealthy relative leave me a large inheritance.  

I've had similar problems.  Seems like sometimes you just get a tricky piece of wood.  Doesn't look all that bad in the grand scheme of things.  Seal the surface with shellac and let it dry.  Very light shearing cut with a bowl gouge or negative rake scraper should do the trick.

 

.40

14 hours ago, smitty10101 said:

 

For punky or soft wood?????

I'm turning American elm but I don't recall what bowl #1 was but it definitely wasn't soft wood.

Around 2:30 this morning, it occurred to me that I did not specify whether I used this on punky or just soft wood.  I started using it with some punky spalted apple yet have evolved into using it with some soft woods after the suggested methods of turning have not worked well.  

 

I should have also mentioned that I bought a hurking big negative rake scraper that has proven itself in many ways.

And, I have learned the value of turning up the speed of the lathe. After thinking for too long that slower meant more careful, bringing the speed up

within limits actually limits some cuts rather than accelerates them.

 

Thanks to all who have responded to this topic.  Apart from watching online videos to gain knowledge, this is where I find wisdom in turning.

What's the difference between knowledge and wisdom?  Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit. Wisdom is knowing not to put a tomato in a fruit salad.

One of the issues with any scraping type tool is tearout. I put the carbide tools in that category also. Try using a very sharp bowl gouge with a fingernail grind which shears the wood away and reduces tearout to a minimum. 

Paul

Ok been away from where I could respond. Looks like the problem you had is both spalt and end grain tear out. The first solution as Lew said is a sharp bowl gouge. If you still get tear out sharpen again. Carbide is not the best tool for outside finish, even Hunter carbides do not give a fine outside finish for me. 

1 minute ago, Gerald said:

Looks like the problem you had is both spalt and end grain tear out

Thks Gerald---but not anymore. I just spun it off the lathe & it broke into several pieces.

 

See thread---"all for naught"

I have had trouble with this too.

Yes, the sharper the tool, the less tear out.  It seems there is always room for better sharpness.

I prefer HSS to the carbide tools I have to get that last bit of smoothness.  

 

I have had my best success, after sharp tools with:

.  hardening the end grain with PC Wood Petrifier or a little CA in places

.  scraping with a rounded cabinet scraper to burnish the wood

.  Filling the grain with Aqua Coat until it is smooth.