Jump to content
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

Bob Hodge

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Bob Hodge

  • Rank
  • Birthday 02/14/1951


  • First Name
  • My Location
    Upland, Indiana
  • Gender
  • My skill level is
  • Favorite Quote
    "Where does your deep joy meet the deep need of the world?"

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I'm still working on how to finish the inside of vessels. Still looking for tips and wisdom. Somebody posted some wisdom here a few months ago that for a vessel with smaller than a five inch opening, people don't or can't look inside that well to see the finish. I think there is truth in that. From that post, I have tried black gesso on the inside but struggle with its sturdiness with any use. It is basically an acrylic paint, from my understanding. Here, I used a cobblestone spray paint. It adds a sturdy texture to the inside that contrasts with the super smooth outside. My artsy friends really like it, and it is a whole lot easier than trying to finish the inside as smooth as the outside. I'd still like to hear from others about how they finish the inside of vessels with small openings.
  2. I'm pleased with this bowl for several reasons: . The white oak was rescued from a lumber sawyer's waste pile . The wood works wonderfully well. . I happened to hit the right spot to get the crotch part centered in the bottom. Finished with golden oak Watco and 2000 grit wetsanding.
  3. Ah, now you are asking really good questions to which I have no answer. Back to my friend for clarification. Thanks for these thoughts so far. I gravitate toward condensation myself, though end grain on the bottom sucking up water make a whole lot of sense. You know, the wisdom I get from this group is just fantastic. Thanks,
  4. Maybe a bit out of the category here, but we need help. A friend, an excellent renovation and small house addition fellow, asks me to post a question for him. He is working on a porch. The porch supports are of wood, in a long, tall pyramid shape somewhat reminiscent of the Arts and Crafts porch supports of some years ago. These supports have been replaced twice in ten years because they rot from the inside. Outside, the paint is great with no signs of cracks or leakage. The supports are tightly sealed and held off the brick foundation by another piece of wood such that the actual wood of the pyramid does not touch cement or bricks. It is the bottom of the porch posts that are rotting from the inside. There is no sign of leakage from above. So, we have a discussion on what to do. One thought is to seal them yet better, inside and out so no moisture gets in. Another thought is to put small vents in the top and bottom so air can circulate. Ultimately, it would be great to know what is causing this to happen. Of course, the discussion also goes to what kind of wood to use. I'm aware of the lists online of good outdoor wood. Because this is to be painted and subject to this odd moisture issue, it seems worth asking that question in this context. thanks
  5. The thought of finishing as best as I can then adding a collar to make the opening smaller is brilliant! Yes, I am working on another hollow form with a smaller opening and have already got my black black black dye ready. I'm not sure what gesso is but my neighbor art professor will surely fill me in. This is all very helpful and encouraging. Thanks.
  6. When somebody gives me a hunk of wood, I give them the first piece created from it. A little Hoosier Fusion adventure here, filling in a cherry knothole with crushed gems from my wife's offering of imperfect gems and minerals - green aventurine and white pearls. I tried epoxy with unsatisfactory results. Super glue did the trick. Watco on the inside for a matte finish. Waterlox on the outside. Just not there yet with getting the inside of narrow-opening vessels as smooth as the outside. Any wisdom?
  7. Dan, thanks for the photos. Only a true woodworker could see a bowl in that root ball that you started with. What kind of wood is it? I once did something with the root ball of a yew bush. I had read about yew, but didn't know at the time that are yew trees, not just yew bushes. I dried it out with the polyglycol that displaces water. That worked well, except it was then full of water based wax which would not take a finish. I did find a dark purple streak through it that was unique. So, I am presently working on my walnut stump - two feet above ground and two feet of root. Both are very wet. The root wood is wetter and seems to be much darker brown. So far, I have roughed out three bowls and one vessel, and have two 30 gallon bags full of shavings. Oh, and I had to learn how to get walnut stains off my blackened hands (lemon juice and salt, just so you know). And, I will go see my friendly chain saw sharpening friend tomorrow.
  8. Son in law presents me with a walnut stump. It is freshly cut and dug out. About 20 inches across at ground level. There is about thirty inches from above the ground. I know how to handle that part. There is about 30 inches of the root ball from below the ground, possibly 20 inches across for a couple of feet before roots start branching out. I already know how to dull my chain saw cutting wood with dirt in it or rocks surrounded by root growth. So, before I start, any wisdom about the value of working the portion of the stump that was below ground? I may have to make a new friend of the fellow who has a contract to take down trees and pull stumps for son in law's city.
  9. I have an opportunity to buy a good used Teknatool Nova 1624 II for about $600. New, I believe, is about $1200 yet I see some reviews that said they were about $850 a couple of years ago. This is belt driven, 8 speeds. The DVR is all electronic, but it costs about $600 to $1000 more, depending on where you are starting. Currently, I am overdriving my midi lathe to make 12 inch bowls from some heavy woods. I would like to get into bowl making up to 18 inches and the outboard feature of this Nova would accommodate that. The Nova is described as an entry level lathe. I'm sure I would appreciate the electronic, digital speed motor, but I must weigh the cost of it. 1. What is missing from that to a more advanced lathe besides the electronic, direct drive motor? 2. The outrigger, outboard feature would allow for larger bowls, but no tailstock. Is that really feasible? Safe? Thanks for the wisdom.
  10. Nice. These look like cat food cans. Or, I can raid my wife's drawer(s) of all those little plastic butter/condiment bowls that don't match up with any of the lids in the other drawer(s).
  11. I am about to inherit some blue stained pine. I am to "make something out of it". It is what I call "story wood" that carries as much history with it more than being some high quality piece of wood. I will make some sort of box that is not to be used heavily or often in hopes of protecting it. I've read some older posts on other sites about blue stained pine. I thought I would see if there are any new thoughts about working with it: . What might I do to harden pine so it doesn't scratch or dent quite as easily? . What might I do to finish it such that it doesn't ruin the natural blue coloring? Maybe there is a single answer to both questions. Robert
  12. I have possibly 200 little 2 and 3 inch sanding disks for making bowls. Grits from 60 to 3000. They are presently all stuck in little plastic bags by size and grit as I got them from the supplier. It would be great to file them somehow. Something like a recipe box with dividers, but much larger to handle more. I can come up with something, I am sure, with a shoebox, recipe box, etc. yet I'll bet someone else is ahead of me on this. I'm always up for simple, ingenious solutions. Robert
  13. Thanks for the affirmation of my attempt to be artsy. Here is my second attempt. I share it here not for more applause but to show the cool wood that goes into it. The variety of colors and grains in wood, most from scraps, just blows me away - lignum vita, red oak, cherry, red bud - a little spalting, white oak with bubinga inserts. The middle is my favorite - birds-eye maple with a bark inclusion. I learned the stain-sand, stain-sand, BLO technique here, making the bird's eyes dance before your eyes. Then, a walnut frame around part of a yew bush root ball. I won't try that again as I learned how root balls encapsulate rocks. Then, a mystery wood from Mexico - oily stuff that I also learned how to finish on this group. So, with good advice here and pieces donated from many friends, this is a group project.
  14. Gene, thanks. I've wanted to work with mesquite, yet "give me your scraps and cutoffs" in Indiana has not yielded any. I may have to just buy some. And, yes, I think turquoise would look really good as it remains a solid color even when crushed. Many minerals lose their color when crushed as the edges become more reflective e.g. any quartz based mineral. Presently, I have access to green malachite that works well. I add some brass shavings from the local hardware store that makes keys. I am careful to "bury" the minerals below the surface so the tools don't touch them. Experimenting with both CA and epoxy to cover them. CA seems to result in a clearer cover. Love to hear more from you on this topic.
  15. Wall hanging. It is about 30 inches long. I am doing another one about four feet long. This is all ramping up to what I want to do as a "wood museum" to take up much of a 8 foot by 8 foot space. I had contemplated wood "bricks" of different woods, inlays and other, yet this approach will allow me to add new plates as I encounter those wonderfully unique pieces of wood that one would never use in a larger piece. Occlusions, holes, and other are welcome. I am also experimenting with filling voids with crushed minerals from my wife's hobby.
  • Create New...