I’m getting super close to finishing. I’ve ordered some waterslide decal paper and saved the proper decals to replace the old ones and I’ve got tires coming tomorrow and blade on hand. 
 

HOWEVER… my initial plan of swapping my 1/2hp Dayton motor that was on my 14” bandsaw (I ordered and upgraded to a 1.5hp baldor motor) to put on this bandsaw has hit a bump in the road. I might have to go somewhere else with this but I’ll start here in case y’all know. 
 

I took apart the motor a bit to clean and prep for painting.. took the top cylindrical cover off that had some sort of big battery looking thing there, took the fan cover off and ran to get all the grime and dust off.. I think I put it back on the right way? I really should have taken a picture before but forgot. Possible problem #1.
So I spit shined the cover, painted the motor, and took the old hardwired, yellow, Romex wire.

 

Albeit I’m not an electrician but I know just enough to get me in trouble without knowing how to get out. I was really diligent about labeling with tape what wires go with which in the motor… fed a 14-3 romex cable down and put 2 nuts on each set of hot and neutral wire bundles and I was sure I did this correctly.. only I added a previously absent ground wire from the new wire I installed. Possible problem #2.

 

I fed the 14-3 romex cable up to a 20A-120/277V double pole Leviton switch and connected it to the left side of the switch — bought a 14 GA appliance cord to connect to the right side of the switch. I put the appropriate wires in place, pigtailed the ground wires…. Finally after an entire afternoon of electrical work, I go to plug it in thinking it would fire right up? 
 

Tripped my circuit breaker. Tried another zone/outlet, tripped that one also. 
 

So luckily I had somewhere to be so I quit after that but I’ve got no clue what I did wrong. Any insight? 

Double poled switch should have the same colored wires per side.

Put both blacks on left side, both whites on right side of switch.

The way you're wired creates a direct short between hot/neutral when you throw the switch.

Are you wiring this up as 110 or 220? 

 

Interesting.. @Larry Buskirk confusing as it has the load indicated as the top portion (left/right side) and line as the bottom (left&right side). I’ll switch the wires and see what happens

 

@Cal Wiring it as a 110

Well I’ll be darn, that did the trick and it works now! Thank you @Larry Buskirk, my hard work and diligence has not gone in vain — onto the next step of the process. 

1 hour ago, Michael D said:

Interesting.. @Larry Buskirk confusing as it has the load indicated as the top portion (left/right side) and line as the bottom (left&right side). I’ll switch the wires and see what happens

 

@Cal Wiring it as a 110

The switch is labled correctly, think of the double pole switch as two blade switches tied together.

@Michael D. Looking forward to seeing this all tuned, up and running. Gonna'  be a nice addition to your shop.

You probably already have, but I'd suggest adding cable clamps with bushings where the wiring enters/exits the switch box.

22 minutes ago, Grandpadave52 said:

@Michael D. Looking forward to seeing this all tuned, up and running. Gonna'  be a nice addition to your shop.

You probably already have, but I'd suggest adding cable clamps with bushings where the wiring enters/exits the switch box.

May I also suggest connecting a ground wire to the box.   Danl

1 hour ago, Danl said:

May I also suggest connecting a ground wire to the box.   Danl

Great suggestions and I appreciate them! I’m actually doing that right now. I’ve got a clamp connector for the bottom knockout and bought a 90 degree elbow for the side knockout to prevent dust from entering.

 

I do not have bushings for either, you think I should take another trip to the hardware store? I could use 1 more knockout cap…

 

For the ground wire.. here’s what I’ve got — ground connected to side of motor box going from motor to switch, which is then pigtailed in with the ground wire from the appliance plug and attached to the switch ground screw. Are you suggesting something different? 
 

@Grandpadave52 Thank you! It’s looking reallllly cool and I’m looking forward to sharing it with you all! 

Edited December 30, 20223 yr by Michael D

Was there a need or advantage to using the double pole switch in this application?

2 hours ago, Cal said:

Was there a need or advantage to using the double pole switch in this application?

I thought that was the required switch for the application, am I mistaken?

2 hours ago, Cal said:

Was there a need or advantage to using the double pole switch in this application?

Not actually a need, but should Michael decide to go with 220 Volts the switch is capable of switching both hot leads. Also using a double pole switch to switch both leads when using on 110 Volts ensures that no hot lead is attached in case the outlet being plugged into is wired incorrectly.

55 minutes ago, Michael D said:

I thought that was the required switch for the application, am I mistaken?

On those motors I posted the link to of the earlier Delta motors and other motors I have they used double pole switches.

Some were wired as you have done, others (The earliest) only used one side of the switch for the hot lead and the neutral leads were simply spliced together. 

Thanks @Larry Buskirk — glad I’m still doing it right. Did you have any insight into my previous post concerning the ground wire? I’m gonna run to the hardware store and get one of those Wago connectors instead of wrestling with a wire nut that doesn’t seem to want to stay on for the ground wire pigtail. 

Edited December 31, 20223 yr by Michael D

21 minutes ago, Michael D said:

Did you have any insight into my previous post concerning the ground wire?

Once the switch is mounted in the box it grounds the box through the switch mounting screws. You could add an additional wire to the box if you wanted to.

Well here’s the final product!

New:

•1/4” Timberwolf blade
•Fender Washer table insert 

•Urethane tires

•link belt (though I might switch it to a red belt for contrast)

•785 sized pulleys (both vintage deltas but probably not from a 785)

•Walnut stand base, finished with teak oil and polyurethane top coat

•Bolts 

•Electrical switch

•Refurbished 1/2 HP Dayton motor I swapped from my 1951 14” Delta bandsaw w/ polishing and paint job

•Delta stand decal 

•Paint job w/ primer undercoat

I kept the original Delta decal to keep some of the history and original character of the saw.

 

Overall it was a fun restore and was actually my very first equipment restoration. I learned a LOT and I thought it came out absolutely fantastic. Overall it took me about a month to complete but got sidetracked with other shop projects so apologize for the delay.
 

Enjoy!

Your wife lets you have it on display in the living room?  Amazing!

@Michael D

Well done Michael. Excellent restoration. Looks absolutely amazing. You'll need sunglasses for the light reflecting off that table. Thanks for sharing your journey with us. Greatly appreciated.

 

So now that the "bug" has bit you, what's next?

8 minutes ago, Grandpadave52 said:

So now that the "bug" has bit you, what's next?

 

The rest of the set.  

DAMHIKT 

Lol yes she does but by the looks of it in the second to last picture, she’s less than impressed @Cal 

 

Thank you @Larry Buskirk and @Grandpadave52 — I just acquired a 6” delta jointer so I’m thinking that’s next on the docket! Might be a bit though…