If you use your chuck you do not need a sacrificial . Just cut the tenon directly into the blank.

With this chuck its a bit on the odd side with the jaws for that.  This is the chuck that I currently have unless you recommend for me getting a different one this one is yes a bit odd.  Here is the link to describe better. https://wenproducts.com/products/wen-la4444-4-inch-4-jaw-self-centering-chuck-set-with-1-inch-x-8tpi-thread. 

If I need to buy a different chuck it will have to wait until the end of the month.

1 hour ago, AndrewB said:

I do not have one of those types of tool rests

You really don't need a rest of this type for shallower bowls. If you know a welder, you can probably have one made for a couple of $$. Mine are all homemade. One tool rest I would buy/make is a short one about 6" long.

 

After checking the website you gave for your chuck, I think my advice for the length of a tenon may be incorrect. Your chuck has dovetails that are not full depth. To get the best grip, I would create a dovetail tenon that matched the length of the one in the jaws instead of the depth I mentioned in the previous post

 

I can weld LOL easy peasy even got my own welder.  Well 3 welders more exactly.

1 hour ago, AndrewB said:

With this chuck its a bit on the odd side with the jaws for that.  This is the chuck that I currently have unless you recommend for me getting a different one this one is yes a bit odd.  Here is the link to describe better. https://wenproducts.com/products/wen-la4444-4-inch-4-jaw-self-centering-chuck-set-with-1-inch-x-8tpi-thread. 

If I need to buy a different chuck it will have to wait until the end of the month.

This is not a chuck I would recommend but as to tenon length or depth of a mortise unlike in flatwork , in turning there is no minimum but only a max. The max is just short of the total depth of the jaws. The tenon I use is usually a 1/2 inch but have gone to as little as 1/4 .

    In the relation to using a mortise or expansion mode it can go as small as 1/8 inch with the strength based on the grain orientation and the amount of wood outside the mortise.

    Now all that said there is no limiting factor for your chuck that says you cannot use a tenon or mortise to hold the workpiece.

    Andrew I enjoy answering your questions but I think your with the eagerness displayed would benefit from a mentor and a turning club. This http://www.woodturnersofolympia.org/

is a club in Olympia. Check it out.

Lovely so I bought the wrong type of chuck LOL.  Welp the chuck will have to wait until next month to buy.

4 hours ago, AndrewB said:

Lovely so I bought the wrong type of chuck LOL.  Welp the chuck will have to wait until next month to buy.

Don't beat your self up . This is a tommybar chuck and requires two hands to operate until you figure out other ways to mount work using the toolrest to hold it in place. Many pros having used these in the early days still do use them some and they are inexpensive. There is no right and wrong type only that some are easier to use.

 

I prefer Super Nova II , but they do tighten backward compared to most other chucks. They use a hex key which is easier to get into position to use. Not what some call a premium chuck but not as expensive as One Way and Vickmark.You can get them beginning about 139 and up depending on package. The do make a direct thread model but most prefer the insert (Buy Nova insert) so can be used on different lathe if need be. I know more than you ever wanted to know about chucks.

 

Now SNII may be too large for your current lathe so a G3 might be a better choice for it. The G3 is smaller and can usually get on sale 117 at Woodcraft or 119 at Walmart

1 minute ago, Gerald said:

for your current lathe so a G3 might be a better choice for it.

I have the G3 for my JET 10x12 works well.  

I have a Nova Midi chuck. It took a little while to learn to use the Tommy bars but it always worked well. What I hated was the time/trouble to change jaws. The Easy Wood chuck changed all that. Although more expensive it actually is less overall than when turners have several chucks loaded with different jaws because of the jaw change difficulty

I'll look into all of those and weigh my options and read some reviews thanks all.  Sorry I was busy watchin a movie.  @Gerald on your suggestion of joining a local club I would how ever one issue with that stands in my way and that is something a bit more personal.   Just personal stuff.  I do plan on working more on this bowl and getting it carved out I may just take some funds from a place and order a chuck and call it good so I don't have to wait too much longer.  Yes the chuck from when is a complete pain to operate.  I was having to use the two handles and metal dowels they gave me to tighten and or loosen the chuck and it does go opposite ways to loosen or tighten.  Not only that they jaws themselves are far too tall from what you guys probably have.  The easy chuck looks like its going to be a little beyond my budget unfortunately.

 

 

Side note looks like the G3 will work for my lathe.  Its a 1 inch x 8TPI which the wen is.  I just found it on amazon for 130 bucks so I'll go ahead and pick that up today.

https://www.amazon.com/48232-Reversible-Turning-spindles-Nova/dp/B00HETU0NC/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=G3+Lathe+Chuck&qid=1592189590&sr=8-4

Should be here on Thursday.  WOOHOO.

 

Edited June 15, 20206 yr by AndrewB

@AndrewB This short video will give you a lot of info on chucks packed in a short time.

https://www.finewoodworking.com/2013/11/12/a-woodturners-guide-to-chucks-and-jaws

Yea I think i saw that one @Gerald