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Time for BOWLS

Featured Replies

YEP you heard it sorry for the double threads today guys but the first bowl is beginning to take shape.  After I got the blank turned down which took a while, the shakiness of the lathe worked itself out.  It will be interesting hallowing this one out lol. Sadly this one will have a flat bottom but that’s alright.  I think I’ve stood up for about as long as I could today the joints are feelin it.

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Looks like a great start!

 

Is that about 5" or 6" in diameter? Looks like it's either red or white oak (maybe ash). That stuff is pretty hard!

Edited by lew

  • Author

Roughly

Andrew, you are really taking off.  That is going to be interesting.  You are braver than me.  My Shopsmith starting speed is 700 rpm and I don't have any bowl gouges yet.  Even if I did, I would not try what you have done on my SS.  So, my hat's off to you.  

  • Author

I've been running at about 800 to 1K rpm so not too fast but if it does knock off the lathe it wont be so bad LOL.

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Yep I always wear a face shield LOL I wont dig into the piece with out one on.  But even with a face shield on I'm finding sometimes stuff does fly up and underneath it LOL.  Oh well.

45 minutes ago, AndrewB said:

I've been running at about 800 to 1K rpm so not too fast but if it does knock off the lathe it wont be so bad

Roughly that would mean a 6 inch disc will hit you at 35mph.  I promise that will leave a mark much like being shot.  Having been shot, I can attest it was NOT fun.

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Yea I always try to not stand directly in front of it while turning.  I don't wanna get hit.  Came across a guy called "The Wood Whirler" On you tube seen a video where he had a blank fly off his lathe put a nice little hole in the wall.  So yea I wont stand directly in front of it.

Nice start. To hollow if you drill the center to depth you want the bowl will give you a stopping point and if you use a forstner will ease the hollowing.

 

Actually as far as lathe speed, If the rpm on items of say 4 inch or smaller is under 1000 the piece will fall to the floor . Mind you it may fly off about 2 foot and roll but in most cases no harm done. Just stay out of the line of fire.

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I do get the funny feeling though I'm using to long of a scrap block I think two pieces should be more than enough I think 3 just made it a bit too long so I think its a safe bet to just start with 2 with the length of the screws.  I thought the thing would fly apart with 3 on there but it hasn't yet so I'm going to continue with it at least I'll have plenty of room to cut it off and not have to worry about it.  Not only that Id actually like to find a better screw jaw chuck for that lathe as well that I could actually do bowls better with than the one that the one sold by wen for that machine the jaws are a bit big.  Especially from what I see a lot of turners using the jaw clamps seem to be a lot shorter.

Edited by AndrewB

Andrew if you use a sacrificial plate or glue block you will only need 1 board. The idea is to glue the block to the turning either directly or use the split paper method.

   1. glue direct--can be done with regular wood glue . With carpenters glue just like any other wood joint has to be allowed to cure. To remove the bowl the block has to be turned off, hence the term sacrificial plate.

   2. For CA the faceplate should be slightly cupped and apply thick CA on the edge of the blank. The CA has to cure but not as long as carpenters glue.To remove the CA block due to the brittleness of CA drive a chisel into the joint and the bowl will pop off.

   2. split paper- is also a glue joint . You glue a piece of paper in the Carpenters glue joint and let it cure. To remove the bowl a chisel is driven into the joint and the paper splits in two.

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Hmmm maybe I'm doing it backwards then.  Because of the way I actually have it mounted.

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WELP I had my first project pop off the lathe.  I am honestly thinking it’s the jaws themselves unless I didn’t have enough material for them to hang on to.  I’m almost thinking I dint have enough material for them to grab and lock to.  I started to hallow out the bowl and barely even putting pressure into the piece just letting the chisel do the work. Bloop off it comes.  I was running bout 800 RPM.  Made me jump back just a bit but I shut the machine off and didn’t let it get to me too much.  @Geraldyou we’re completely right on that good call.  The piece just dropped to the ground and rolled lol.  Either way I’m thinking maybe cut out a bit more material for the sacraficial plate? Glue it on and keep going?  I don’t wanna toss this project aside.

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Edited by HandyDan

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Yep I plan on that the bowls already off the lathe unfinished still have hallowing to do so I'll have to make a sacraficial plate to glue onto the back again.  I'll be doing that today.

The tenon for the chuck can be about 2/3 the depth of the jaws BUT the tenon should NOT long enough to bottom out in the chuck. Also the diameter of the tenon should be such that the jaws of the chuck ALMOST come closed- About 1/8" space separating each jaw when tightened. It's a good idea to check the tightness of the jaws from time to time incase they vibrate lose.

 

For safety, keep the tailstock up against the blank when starting the hollowing process. I leave a small "Post" in the center of the bowl blank as I begin the hollowing process. This helps support the blank when the tools are at the maximum torque areas.  

 

 

 

Edited by lew

  • Author

Okay I'll have to give that a go when I get the block fixed.  I was running into an issue with work room originally on hollowing out the inside.

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Okay I'll give that a go I do not have one of those types of tool rests I'll have to pick one up or hunt for one online.  But I'm bout to go make up a sacraficial block now and glue it up so I can get back to hallowing out the bowl.  Now time to hurry up and wait for glue to dry and cure.  Hopefully at some point tomorrow I will get back to hollowing.  I did make sure that the sacraficial block did fit into the the jaw chuck.  Should do nicely.

Edited by AndrewB

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