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Bronze or Iron?

Featured Replies

On 8/14/2019 at 6:05 PM, PostalTom said:

John, you understand me.

Hey, once you fall in love with a tool you don't have, whether it be an antique tool or a new tool, you just gotta have it. Again, I love my bronze LN, I love my LN's period. My next LN will be their No. 6 Foreplane.

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  • John Morris
    John Morris

    Priorities,

  • PostalTom
    PostalTom

    There are so many hand tools I want to buy and try.  I don't want to try the cheap ones for fear that it might lead to a bad experience and I pass on a tool that would give me a lot of enjoyment.  Mos

  • @derekcohen  Thanks for a good explanation, very helpful.  And I agree sometimes the topic of sharpening can get like a sawstop one, dark and ugly very quickly.  I usually avoid commenting on such top

Posted Images

  • Popular Post
18 hours ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

Derek...this is a curiosity question: is the Sawstop available in the Land Down Under?

Oh yes. Quite popular as well. 

 

I was tossing up between the SS and the Hammer K3 slider 2 years ago now. After several close examinations alongside one another at the West Australian Wood Show at the time, it was evident that they were both built to a similar, high standard. What it came down to in the end was that I wanted a sliding crosscut feature. The SS offered an accessory crosscut mitre, however this ran about 12-15 inches away from the blade. The K3 slider ran 1" from the blade. That makes a huge difference in practice. Then I was introduced to ripping on the slider using a Fritz and Frans jig, and it opened up a whole world of possibilities how a saw table could be used. The Hammer is also 4 hp and runs a 12" blade. I ended up with the K3. It was way above my budget going in, but I have a wonderful wife, who told me to get it. I always listen to my wife :)

 

Regards from Perth

 

Derek

10 hours ago, John Morris said:

Hey, once you fall in love with a tool you don't have, whether it be an antique tool or a new tool, you just gotta have it.

Ain't that the truth! :TwoThumbsUp:

There's still a few old ones that continue to elude me, but it's nice to dream. :DayDreaming:

  • Popular Post

Most of my tools that pull at my heart strings all have cords. Although, there is that one screwdriver.....:lol:

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Actually, the last picture is of the Millers Falls No. 11, type 2 Junior jack, instead of the #14 Jack...:ChinScratch:

I think I'll stay in the "Iron Age", rather than go back into the Bronze Age...keep thinking of all those Bronze statues...that turn green :rolleyes:

7 minutes ago, steven newman said:

I think I'll stay in the "Iron Age"

Hey Steve, that's pronounced "Arn;)

I MIGHT have one or two Morris can try out...1589483183_IMG_2585(640x480).jpg.e64c27801f10b6962ba04ffbb6ff4f22.jpg

But wait...

1065729958_frontview3.jpg.958d581ff2aade96fa4266131ff7642e.jpg

#8, #7, #6

Jumbo.jpg.c672eb3edde4ffdbca89c8d2b749c020.jpg

And the #5-1/2 Jumbo....

2007364261_twoplanes.jpg.d84a265e14aa93cbb9ce90ca4e9ae334.jpg

Little plane is a #14 Jack plane, same size as a Stanley #5

All depends on the size of work I'm doing, and how tired me arms are...

14 hours ago, derekcohen said:

using a Fritz and Frans jig,

Okay I'll bite, what is this?:ChinScratch:

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This is a Fritz and Franz jig - essentially, it is a fixed fence (at the far end) and a push block (near end), and the work piece id place between them. This is for ripping, not crosscutting. 

 

10a.jpg

 

2a.jpg

 

These pieces are short, but one can rip long sections. This is especially handy when you need to clean up one side of a rough sawn board - just send it through. There is no need to joint one side first.

 

Regards from Perth

 

Derek

  • Popular Post
On 8/15/2019 at 7:17 AM, steven newman said:

I MIGHT have one or two Morris can try out...1589483183_IMG_2585(640x480).jpg.e64c27801f10b6962ba04ffbb6ff4f22.jpg

Nice lineup Steve!

I got a few of those Steve, and I like em!

No. 7 was handy thought I'd pull it out and do a drive by shot of it. 

She runs beautifully.:)

 

Bailey No. 7, I still use it.

IMG_20190816_122004.jpg

 

IMG_20190816_122335.jpg

6 hours ago, derekcohen said:

This is a Fritz and Franz jig - essentially, it is a fixed fence (at the far end) and a push block (near end), and the work piece id place between them. This is for ripping, not crosscutting. 

Thanks for the explanation.  Others probably wondered as well but hey, I don't mind asking a question, even dumb ones. :D

 

May come in handy one day.  I plan to retire to my wife's country of Ukraine and the Hammer is probably what I will buy for the retirement woodshop I have in mind.

11 minutes ago, Woodbutcherbynight said:

I don't mind asking a question, even dumb ones.

You know, an old Land Survey Party Chief that I worked for years ago, told me once, "You know how folks always tell you there is no such thing as a dumb question? They lied to you, because some of the questions you ask me are the stupidest most dumba** questions I have ever heard, next time you ask me a question an waste my time, think it through beforehand". Land Survey Party Chiefs don't have great people skills, traditionally. :lol:

 

But Gunny, your question was not dumb, not at all. What the heck, Frick and Frack? I am glad Derek answered your question, and with pics, I learned something today, thanks for asking the question Gunny!

And thanks Derek for your time with us!

4 minutes ago, John Morris said:

But Gunny, your question was not dumb,

Maybe not this time, just wait...…… it's coming...…… I can feel it.:throbbinghead:

 

6 minutes ago, John Morris said:

What the heck, Frick and Frack?

Yeah I wondered the same thing, thought maybe it was named after the cats or something.:D

Just now, Woodbutcherbynight said:

Yeah I wondered the same thing, thought maybe it was named after the cats or something.:D

I thought it was Derek's own terminology he used. I was just going along with it, ok Derek, if you say so. :lol:

Derick don't mind us.  Keep posting we will catch up.  Had the Lord told me to build an ark and started on about the construction and such I would have had to stop him and inquire what a cubit was.  No math and all that a diagram would have been required.  Preferably on stone tablets, I tend to lose things.

 

:throbbinghead:

 

 

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The F&F jig is taking away from the original topic (I can post more bronze if you wish), but here are a couple of videos:

 

The first video is the original one ...

 

 

 

 

If you do not want make your own ..

 

 

My Hammer K3 slider has a shorter stroke than these. I only work with hard woods, not with MDF or ply. Still, a F&F jig is useful for point-and-shoot ripping.

 

Regards from Perth

 

Derek

  • Popular Post

I used the K3 slider this afternoon to rip a very rough, live edge board, and took a few photos to show you what it can do.

 

The task was simple enough - joint one side  of this ....

 

FF1.jpg

 

FF2.jpg

 

With a traditional cabinet saw, one would attach the board to a something with a straight edge (such as MDF), and use that to guide the one side against the rip fence and the other side though the saw blade. Typically, the sawn edge would still be a little rough, and so it would be taken to a jointer.

 

With the slider, you simply jamb the end into a "shoe", with the overhand to be removed towards the blade side. The other end is held and pushed forward simultaneously with half the Fritz and Franz jig (the crosscut fence is removed to facilitate this) ...

 

FF3.jpg

 

I took one cut at a point where I thought it would leave a clear side, but there was a smidgeon that was still "live" ...

 

FF4.jpg

 

So I ran it through again, about a 1/4" in. This time it was perfect ...

 

FF5.jpg

 

This edge is now glue-ready. The jointer is unnecessary.

 

Regards from Perth

 

Derek

 

Edited by derekcohen

  • Popular Post

Back on track ... this was taken several years ago. It looks quite gaudy now ... like plunder from a treasure chest :) 

 

LNfamily.jpg

 

Regards from Perth

 

Derek

In the one photo of the jointers?   The No. 8 is a smooth soled type 7.   One of the #7s is a type 9 Stanley No. 7c , the other is an Ohio Tool Co. No. 0-7, smooth sole.   The No. 6c is also Type 10 9 2 patent dates)....the No. 5-1/2 is a smooth soled Type 17.....and the No. 14 jack plane was made just after WW2....type 2.  

  • 4 months later...

Looking at all these pictures is confusing ...

Does the number of the plane indicate the length of the sole?  

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