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Good Monday Morning Patriot Woodworkers! January 14, 2019

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Got the lawn mowed and some grocery shopping done.  Next project is to do some maintenance on the Shopsmith, like polishing the tubes, blades, put some oil in the sheaves get all the tables waxed.  Then take the wife to the doctor a couple days this week.  If I get a chance, will pull out a chest of drawers and strip and make any needed repairs.  It will be wonderful to have that space back.  No time to retire yet.  :OldManSmiley:

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  • Here is my contribution for the past week thru the week end. 9 down, 9 to go.                    

  • Ron Dudelston
    Ron Dudelston

    I noticed all of the ties in the picture.  Today’s students on a public campus look like an unmade bed.

  • Still finishing up small details on router table build.  Have to cut some Lexan and drill holes for vents at the bottom of the router.  As of yet still no decision on what type of finish on outside of

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1 minute ago, FlGatorwood said:

put some oil in the sheaves

is oil a good move..

would a dry lube be a better choice???

 

I'm real partial to Triflow but most any dry lube will work well providing it's has Teflon/PFTE in it... [higher percentage by volume is more gooder]...

CRC, Tiolube, KG and DuPont each have several most excellent industrial spec DRY SOLID FILM lubricants..

Criteria - dries dry to the touch, high pressure load bearing, contains Teflon/PFTE, barrier forming, extreme temperature range, [usually -100 to +500F] isn't hygroscopic, does not collect dirt, not flammable in dry state, chemical resistant, does not contain silicone, has a long list of compatibles and is really very long lasting... or any of or all the features WD hasn't got any of....

one thing about dry solid film lubricants is that when you apply them and you think that you didn't apply enough you have probably applied too much..

very, very little goes a loooooooooooooooong way...

Just wait until you do your saw's arbor mechanism w/ dry lube.. you and your saw will never be the same... You'll treat everything that moves in the shop in short order... Please thoroughly clean whatever before lubing..

It's a great release agent too...

Dry Film Lubricants are high performance coatings made up of very fine particles of lubricating agents blended with binders and other special additives. Once cured, these lubricating agents bond to the part surface as a solid film which reduces galling, seizing and fretting and protects against corrosion. Through the combination of these properties, dry film lubricants greatly improve the wear life of coated parts.

Dry film/solid film lubricants allow for operating pressures above the load-bearing capacity of normal greases and oils. They are also less prone to collecting soil particulates than greases and oils. In some applications, the coating is self-burnishing, leading to improved, rather than decreased, performance over time. Some blends of dry film/solid film lubricants are also temperature and chemical resistant allowing for their use in harsh environments such as jet engines where exposure to aviation fuel and extreme temperatures are the norm.

This is the type of lubricant you want to use if you have a CNC.

AVOID using anything with silicone in it, because it seems to eventually get on everything including your project and you will have all kinds of finishing problems. Silicone products should be banned from the shop along w/ WD40.

WD will kill bearings in very short order.....
it dissolves the bearing's lubricant...

Bottom line - wet lubricants and saw dust don't go together!

Stick, I totally agree with you on this wonderful information.  However, (yes, there is always a but) there is a small hole in the shaft of the lower sheave and the engineers have only recommended oil.  3 in 1 or another light oil.  The sheave slides on the shaft while spinning and it needs some lubrication.  It will sling some of the oil out but about every couple of months, I try to get some more oil in those 2 lower sheaves.  Yes, particulants and dust does collect and I clean with a toothbrush.  Then put in the oil again.  I will have to do some research for more information on the lubricants that you suggested.  Right now, I have enough machine oil to last me about 30 years.  LOL  All table tops and tubes get a fine paste wax and buff.  It keeps down corrosion and makes everything slip very smoothly.  It takes about 30 minutes to do it all.  I will do the investigation.  Thanks for pointing out all the information.  

15 minutes ago, Woodbutcherbynight said:

this stuff Stick?

yup...

7 minutes ago, Stick486 said:

yup...

The Ace Hardware close to my work has some, will pick up tomorrow and give the TS a swirl.

9 minutes ago, Woodbutcherbynight said:

The Ace Hardware close to my work has some, will pick up tomorrow and give the TS a swirl.

you'll really like it...

Gator, stick with the 3 In One. Just ask yourself if you've ever seen sawdust on those sheaves. 

12 hours ago, Larry Buskirk said:

Cal,

When I get the PC build close enough to finished, I'll post a tutorial about making the decals.

I may be making a couple for the PC build if I can find the files I need.

I've also got to remember to get ink for the printer.

 

I did study the link you provided earlier, I just haven't sat down to actually try it out yet.  But I know that if you post up a tutorial that it will provide the kick in the pants I need to try it out!

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18 hours ago, John Morris said:

I think Ron, because education was not taken for granted in those days, they felt pretty special showing up to college, thus shirt and tie, I think.

 

John, I will have to offer up another explanation for the ties.  I think it was simply the dress code of the day.  It was 1912.  Very few common folks attended college, or even graduated high school.  College was mostly for the rich and/or well connected kids.  While I am sure that those few "commoners" did feel pretty special, for the rest of them I think it was just something they were expected to do.  As for the ties, many of your old pics that you have posted show men wearing ties even in work environments where it would be almost laughed at today...

 

 

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5 minutes ago, Cal said:

 

John, I will have to offer up another explanation for the ties.  I think it was simply the dress code of the day.  It was 1912.  Very few common folks attended college, or even graduated high school.  College was mostly for the rich and/or well connected kids.  While I am sure that those few "commoners" did feel pretty special, for the rest of them I think it was just something they were expected to do.  As for the ties, many of your old pics that you have posted show men wearing ties even in work environments where it would be almost laughed at today...

Excellent perspective Cal, thanks!

Ties of any sort, jewelry of any kind, wrist watches, long hair are all banned in my hobby shop and many commercial shops I've visited. Especially, the machine shops. 

I won't wear loose clothing or long sleeves either. Of course, with my girth, a ban on loose clothing isn't applicable.:(

Something else not allowed in my shop are beverage cans or glasses that tend to sweat. :angry:

I sweat a lot on the super hot days, it is good for sanding it raises the grain.

 

Re: pictures, I have pictures in an old album of the loggers wearing ties and suits falling trees.  Might just be for the picture shoot tho. My wood shop teachers and machine shop teachers both wore ties tucked in at the collar, in the 50's.

Herb

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17 minutes ago, Dadio said:

I sweat a lot on the super hot days, it is good for sanding it raises the grain.

but it leaves salt stains...

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22 minutes ago, Stick486 said:

but it leaves salt stains...

Not if it covers the whole thing.

Herb

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54 minutes ago, Stick486 said:

but it leaves salt stains...

 

30 minutes ago, Dadio said:

Not if it covers the whole thing.

Herb

Is that where s(p)alted wood originates?:rolleyes:

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31 minutes ago, Dadio said:

Not if it covers the whole thing.

Herb

now it'll look like your project is tie dyed...

In the company I worked until the early 90's, all male, front-line supervisors and office managers/operations support were required to wear ties (clip-on of course) even on the factory floor. Shirts had to be plain, white, light blue, light yellow button down collars; no printed or pastel colors either. Maybe that's why they were allowed to smoke in the office and factory floor except the assembly work areas? Both went away about the same time. Office area usually looked like a pool hall with the haze. Some of those "lifers" smoked some nasty cigars & pipes.:P

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6 hours ago, Cal said:

 

John, I will have to offer up another explanation for the ties.  I think it was simply the dress code of the day.  It was 1912.  Very few common folks attended college, or even graduated high school.  College was mostly for the rich and/or well connected kids.  While I am sure that those few "commoners" did feel pretty special, for the rest of them I think it was just something they were expected to do.  As for the ties, many of your old pics that you have posted show men wearing ties even in work environments where it would be almost laughed at today...

 

 

Think again even in the west for this time period most everyone wore ties and usually a suit coat . I think by this time vests were on the wain but still in regular use. Look back at some historical street pic to get a better idea. Also all the ladies wore a hat as well as most men especially tradesmen.

Yeah we had to change out the ceiling tile, what a yucky job.

Herb

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