I like the closed ends of the brayer for smaller work. Easier to control.

51 minutes ago, Grandpadave52 said:

You're right, I could not easily locate recommended application temperature either. I did find the recommended storage temperatures which typically equate to usage temperatures. At 60^o F, the only detriment I see might be an extended dry time but IMO, shouldn't affect the adhesion quality. Vapors are listed as Flammable so no open flame/element heat source (water heater/furnace etc) should be used while spraying. Personally, I wouldn't use in a living area if for no other reason containment of over-spray.

 

https://3m.citrination.com/pif/000692?locale=en-US

 

I read an article on doing laminate work in colder temperatures and the author said it was a little different than in warmer temps and to practice to get the 'feel' for it.   I hope the drying time isn't too long at 60 degrees.

Question, where's the degree symbol?

If you're using 3M 77, drying time is nil. 

the ° symbol is a function of my key board on my Kindle. In Windows, you should be able to find a listing of those types of symbols and their corresponding key strokes. Don't know about any other OS.

@Gene Howe

I'm using 3M 90.  I have some 3M 77 and called 3M and asked if 77 would be OK for my application.  3M rep said that 3M 90 would be better.  Your thoughts?

16 minutes ago, JIMMIEM said:

@Gene Howe

I'm using 3M 90.  I have some 3M 77 and called 3M and asked if 77 would be OK for my application.  3M rep said that 3M 90 would be better.  Your thoughts?

Can't comment. Never used the 90. Other than it probably provides a stronger bond, I wouldn't think using it would be different. Can't imagine drying time would be any different, either. Assuming their 1 minute dry time is open time. 

Edited March 9, 20197 yr by Gene Howe

54 minutes ago, Gene Howe said:

Can't comment. Never used the 90. Other than it probably provides a stronger bond, I wouldn't think using it would be different. Can't imagine drying time would be any different, either. Assuming their 1 minute dry time is open time. 

Have you used the 77?  If so, do you think it would ok to use for this application?

 

1 hour ago, Gene Howe said:

I like the closed ends of the brayer for smaller work. Easier to control.

I just picked up a 4" Brayer Roller.  Thank you for the tip.

15 minutes ago, JIMMIEM said:

Have you used the 77?  If so, do you think it would ok to use for this application?

 

77, sprayed liberally, is what I used to bond the hardboard to the plywood. Mine hasn't delaminated. But, if you think 90 is a better choice, go for it. Checking Amazon, there's not much difference in price.

1 hour ago, Gene Howe said:

77, sprayed liberally, is what I used to bond the hardboard to the plywood. Mine hasn't delaminated. But, if you think 90 is a better choice, go for it. Checking Amazon, there's not much difference in price.

I don't know which is the better choice.  The 3M rep thought 90 was the better choice.  As you had good success with the 77 maybe I'll just go with that.  OR, I could use 77 on one side and 90 on the other side.  Am I over thinking or what?

4 hours ago, Gene Howe said:

I'd think 60° would be fine. For a permanent bond, spray both surfaces and let them get tacky. This method is somewhat like applying contact cement for plastic laminate. You only get one chance at alignment. I use a few small dowels to span the work. After it's aligned, remove the center one and stick the parts together at that point. Work out from there. I use a brayer to insure a good bond.

It's a good thing I looked up what a Brayer is before I went to the store to buy one because the store employee didn't know what a Brayer is either.  At least I was able to describe what it looks like and is used for.

Along the same lines....a few years ago I went into a crafts store to buy Bear Claw hangers.  The store employee told me that if I wanted Bear Claws I should go to a bakery. 

Just realized that with the auxiliary table close to the column the table elevation handle hits the auxiliary table.  I could pull the auxiliary table forward to give the handle the clearance it needs or I could rework the elevation handle.  I've seen a few modifications to the elevation handle that will allow it to work with the auxiliary table up against the column.  Suggestions?

5 hours ago, JIMMIEM said:

Suggestions?

I have seen a modification to make the elevation be turned from the front of the table.

7 hours ago, JIMMIEM said:

Just realized that with the auxiliary table close to the column the table elevation handle hits the auxiliary table.  I could pull the auxiliary table forward to give the handle the clearance it needs or I could rework the elevation handle.  I've seen a few modifications to the elevation handle that will allow it to work with the auxiliary table up against the column.  Suggestions?

Is there a way to cut a notch out of the table for  the handle?

On one drillpress I had, I took the crank off and I had an old 1/2" drill motor that I chucked up to the gear shaft and then installed a forward reverse switch on the side of the table with a power cord to an outlet and plugged the drill motor into that so I could switch the drill motor from forward to reverse to raise and lower the table. My Atlas didn't have a crank it was all by hand power, so I put the electric trailer jack on it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Herb

Edited March 16, 20197 yr by Dadio

@Dadio,

A notch could be cut but it would be in the area of the fence pivot point.  An easy idea I saw used a D shaped socket and ratchet wrench.  My fence doesn't extend back as far as the table in your first picture that uses the drill so I have a little more room to work with.  I installed hardwood rails on the bottom of the auxiliary table which center it on the metal table.  It's a tight fit but slideable.  Maybe just slide it forward when I need to raise/lower the table and then slide it back to drill. Hex bolts into threaded inserts to lock it in place.   

I just watched the video....interesting idea.

Edited March 16, 20197 yr by JIMMIEM
add info

You could remove the handle , put an extension on the crank and support it with a loop under the table. Then make a crank handle for raising.

The easiest solution that I saw used a socket and ratchet wrench.  I figured I'd give it a try. The current crank is secured to the D shaped shaft with a set screw.  I removed it and slid on a socket.  I started to drill the socket for a set screw but it was really slow going.  So I cut a small piece from a plastic card, set it on the flat side of the D shaft and slid on the socket.  The plastic card provided the right amount of snugness to prevent the socket from free spinning or slipping on the D shaft.  The ratchet raises and lowers the table very easily so I'm quitting while I'm ahead.  The ratchet is a lot easier to use than the small crank that came with the drill press.

1 hour ago, JIMMIEM said:

The ratchet is a lot easier to use than the small crank that came with the drill press.

 

 

Can you take a picture?  Did you come to the front or go out the side?  

1 hour ago, JIMMIEM said:

The ratchet is a lot easier to use than the small crank that came with the drill press.

Is your socket 3/8" or 1/2" square drive? If you have a "speed handle" try that instead of the ratchet.

 

If you want one dedicated, stop in at H-F. 3/8" Speed Handle is selling for $7.49...20% off makes it an even 6 bucks. 1/2" is $9.99 less 20% =$8. Pittsburg Tools have a Lifetime Warranty.

23 hours ago, Woodbutcherbynight said:

 

 

Can you take a picture?  Did you come to the front or go out the side?  

I replaced the crank with a ratchet.  As you can see I didn't really extend it.  It's in just about the same position as the original.  I can reach it by extending my arm either over or under the table.  The height adjustment clamp is on one side of the shaft that supports the motor and the crank/ratchet is on the other side.  As you can see the crank handle rotation is restricted by the new auxiliary table.  The ratchet raises and lowers the table much quicker/easier than the crank did.

2 hours ago, JIMMIEM said:

As you can see the crank handle rotation is restricted by the new auxiliary table.  The ratchet raises and lowers the table much quicker/easier than the crank did.

 

 

Thanks for the picture and how to on what you did.