The only blade I ever had to do that was a thin kerf. While ripping I could see it wander back and forth. It reminded me of California and the zig saz lines they paint on the highway showing there is a stop sign coming up... good idea , all states should do that...

    This was a very cheap thin thin blade which by the way I switched over to using HF blades after that since I bought my new table saw in about 2000..Its not me that does this work, its the better quality I buy that shows in my end results!!!!!

22 hours ago, Danl said:

Only one side.  My dial indicator set-up is shop made and ref from the left miter slot.

Ok so take the blade off, turn it around, remeasure from the left, rotate blade backwards if you must.

the measuring gauge can't tell the difference

 

smitty

16 minutes ago, smitty10101 said:

Ok so take the blade off, turn it around, remeasure from the left, rotate blade backwards if you must.

the measuring gauge can't tell the difference

 

smitty

mark the teeth you measured so you can measure the same teeth again...

I want to thank everyone for trying to help me with my table saw issue.  I'm going to chalk this one up to  "user error" while using a miter gauge which did have so wiggle to it.  I'm going to have the TS blade sharpened and give it another try.  There is a sharpening company in my area which I have heard good things about.  I will let you know.  Thanks again, I do appreciate the help.  Danl 

5 minutes ago, Danl said:

There is a sharpening company in my area which I have heard good things about.  I will let you know.  Thanks again, I do appreciate the help. 

Thanks Dan...hope that cures the issue...will look forward to your update. You're lucky, no sharpening service close here anymore.

@Danl

 

It also looks like the blade is dropping...can't think of another reason for the cut angle to change (from pics you posted)...

 

When you first bring up the blade, how far above the piece are the teeth...?  And does it change...?

 

Are you taking multiple passes raising the blade higher each time...?

Edited December 21, 20187 yr by Nickp

i use Ridge carbide for my sharpening.  Wouldn't send anything to forrest .

Edited December 21, 20187 yr by Cliff

This topic is full of mysteries. DanL, I sincerely hope you figure out what caused those nasty cuts and, tell us. I'd still like to see what a ripped 4x4 or an 8/4 board would look like. 

 I agree with Gene, rip some lumber to see if it is the blade before having it resharpened.   I am betting it was the slop in the miter gauge that caused it.  Roly

On 12/21/2018 at 9:56 AM, Nickp said:

@Danl

 

It also looks like the blade is dropping...can't think of another reason for the cut angle to change (from pics you posted)...

 

When you first bring up the blade, how far above the piece are the teeth...?  And does it change...?

 

Are you taking multiple passes raising the blade higher each time...?

the blade isn't dropping.

the matl which I was milling was 3" and max blade height is either 3-1/8" or 3-1/4".  I had blade to max height.

I was making a single pass.

Danl

On 12/21/2018 at 4:11 PM, Roly said:

 I agree with Gene, rip some lumber to see if it is the blade before having it resharpened.   I am betting it was the slop in the miter gauge that caused it.  Roly

Roly, I believe you are correct.  Today, I had the opportunity to rip 4/4 hard maple and I received good results.  I still plan to have the blade sent out for sharping latter this week.  Thanks all again for your support.  Danl

On 12/18/2018 at 5:41 AM, Smallpatch said:

The only blade I

    This was a very cheap thin thin blade which by the way I switched over to using HF blades after that since I bought my new table saw in about 2000..Its not me that does this work, its the better quality I buy that shows in my end results!!!!!

GO Harbor Freight!!!!

Herb

On 12/16/2018 at 2:02 PM, Danl said:

I have not had the blade sharpened or repaired.  I do not remember causing an issue, but neither the less the blade is not cutting correctly.  I have removed it from the saw and reinstalled it and made sure that the blade was on the arbor correctly.

 

I took 24 measurements using a dial indicator, front and back of the saw.  The front measurement delta is 0.0035" and the back measurements delta is 0.0030.  Forrest website indicates that the Forrest saw blades are mfg within 0.001" and that other mfg allow 0.004/0.010.  Do you have any suggestion what may of caused the warped effect?  What did I do but don't remember?  Danl

 

 

  

 

I dropped off a few saw blades at my local saw company today and they gave me a tour of their facility.  I asked my guide if he would measure my Forrest blade run-out.  He wiped the blade with a micro-cloth before mounting it in their set-up tool and measured .00250 in.  He removed the blade and reinstalled it.  The 2nd time he measured 0.00325 in.  Their measurements were made approximately 2” from center.  My measurements were made approximate 4” from center.   He told me that blades like this one usually measures 0.001-0.002 in.  I was informed if I was to order a blade made by them, that the carbide tips would have a side grind run-out of 0.005 mm (0.0002 in).  Danl

There ya go Danl. Kinda figgered it was the blade. 

5 hours ago, Gene Howe said:

There ya go Danl. Kinda figgered it was the blade. 

Would not a blade with run out cut the same as a wobble type dado blade and just make a wider kerf ?  Since it cut fine in the rip mode I don't think the blade run out made those marks considering the pattern of the marks and the blade rpm unless the blade was very dull and you were forcing it.  Still betting on the miter gauge.  Roly

6 minutes ago, Roly said:

Still betting on the miter gauge.  Roly

I'm adding offset teeth..

Also/more strange:  the score marks aren't parallel to each other.  I would think they'd be parallel or concentric.  If the piece rotates a little as it goes through the blade, …. um, would that make non-parallel stripes?

 

At 3000 rpm, 50 rps, assume about 1 second for a cut/pass, the blade rotates about 50 times per cut.  Is that 4" material?  If so, the "stripes" are about 1/4" wide, 1/16 second for each, 3 rotations of the blade each "stripe".  One tooth out of alignment could account for marks, but not in on/off stripes. 

 

Curiouser and curiouser.

My feeling is the blade was dull or an under powered saw or both.  Saw bogged down at each mark and he stopped as it caught back up making the mark..

My first and final observation------Have the blade----blades sharpened. Works for me---Good luck.

deleted post because it was put in the wrong thread...

Edited January 7, 20197 yr by Stick486