December 15, 20187 yr My table saw was set-up with a Forrest Woodworker II 10”-40 tooth, .125” kerf saw blade. The wood was clamped to a miter gauge to prevent slippage while cross cutting. I made additional cuts, on other boards, using my TS cross cut sled and had similar results; same results using my rip fence. I measured the parallelism between the blade and the miter gauge slot and it was 0.002”. The blade was clean and does not appear to be damaged. The blade is a used blade but appears to be sharp. I removed the FWWII blade and installed my Ridgid 10”-50 tooth blade and received good results. I made the same comparison with my Freud 10”-80 tooth plywood blade and my Freud 10”-24 tooth rip blade. Both Freud blades gave me good results. It appears that I have an issue with my FWWII blade. I do not remember hitting anything while sawing or damaging it. Do I need a new FWWII blade? Danl
December 15, 20187 yr Looks like the blade is warped. Measure from the miter slot to a tooth in several places.
December 15, 20187 yr 7 minutes ago, Gene Howe said: Looks like the blade is warped. Measure from the miter slot to a tooth in several places. Agreed...
December 16, 20187 yr As Gene/Stick suggested Dan...if you have a dial indicator and magnetic base, position the indicator point just below the tool, slightly preload the indicator, zero, then slowly rotate the blade. Should be minimal run-out. I suppose it's possible too there is a slight burr or disruption at the blade arbor hole causing the blade to mount crooked. Has the blade been recently sharpened or had a tooth replaced?
December 16, 20187 yr Author I have not had the blade sharpened or repaired. I do not remember causing an issue, but neither the less the blade is not cutting correctly. I have removed it from the saw and reinstalled it and made sure that the blade was on the arbor correctly. I took 24 measurements using a dial indicator, front and back of the saw. The front measurement delta is 0.0035" and the back measurements delta is 0.0030. Forrest website indicates that the Forrest saw blades are mfg within 0.001" and that other mfg allow 0.004/0.010. Do you have any suggestion what may of caused the warped effect? What did I do but don't remember? Danl
December 16, 20187 yr as I understand it... when dad retired and passed the company on... QC slipped... I believe this is the problem...
December 16, 20187 yr 1 hour ago, Danl said: I have not had the blade sharpened or repaired. I do not remember causing an issue, but neither the less the blade is not cutting correctly. I have removed it from the saw and reinstalled it and made sure that the blade was on the arbor correctly. I took 24 measurements using a dial indicator, front and back of the saw. The front measurement delta is 0.0035" and the back measurements delta is 0.0030. Forrest website indicates that the Forrest saw blades are mfg within 0.001" and that other mfg allow 0.004/0.010. Do you have any suggestion what may of caused the warped effect? What did I do but don't remember? Danl Boy Dan, with those numbers it sure doesn't appear to be warped much. TIR of only 0.0035. Out of curiosity, did you do a similar R/O check with one of your Freuds to see what/if difference there is? I had a similar issue on an old used Rockwell 9" saw. What I found on it there was disruption on the stationary arbor washer...got it off, filed the burrs off, then "honed" on 220g to ensure flatness...fixed the issue; however if that's the case on yours it should show up no matter what blade is installed. I had to get a flashlight and magnifying glass to initially see the problem however. Just guessing, but maybe you have tooth or two that has more set than the others; bent somehow???
December 16, 20187 yr 1 hour ago, Danl said: I took 24 measurements using a dial indicator off the body or the teeth???
December 16, 20187 yr 20 hours ago, Grandpadave52 said: As Gene/Stick suggested Dan...if you have a dial indicator and magnetic base, I made this years ago. Been a great little tool for stuff like this.
December 16, 20187 yr 35 minutes ago, Stick486 said: off the body or the teeth??? The teeth do the cutting. One could be welded crooked. BTW, did you measure the depth of the score on the wood? Edited December 16, 20187 yr by Gene Howe
December 18, 20187 yr Author The earlier measurements were take from the blade body, every 30 degrees. Today I took measurements every 4th tooth on the side of the tooth. this is not a new blade, but the issue is new. I have not taken any measurement from a different blade. I took the blade off the the 3rd time and inspected the stationary arbor washer with a magnifying glass and a flashlight. I did not see anything on the washer. With the magnifying glass and a flashlight I inspected the teeth on the blade. I did not see anything. I measured the score on the cut-offs. The scoring is .003"/.008". I put the blade back in the saw and made approx. 50 cuts on SYP 2 x 4 material. I had 5 cuts which made a scoring. With these results I concluded that my issue was user error only because I am perplexed. Leaving the blade in the saw, I made 8 cuts on 1-1/2" x 3" poplar. Two of the cuts left scoring. This time, it was only 1 score mark and not 3 like the pic show. Now I'm really confused. Christmas money is already spent and my birthday is months away. Looks like I may need to do my cross cutting with my $50 Ridged blade (until now, I only used this blade to cut pine matl) Danl Edited December 18, 20187 yr by Danl
December 18, 20187 yr Author 41 minutes ago, Stick486 said: did you take the measurements from both sides of the blade... call Forrest... Only one side. My dial indicator set-up is shop made and ref from the left miter slot.
December 18, 20187 yr Could something be moving such as the bevel adjustment or something else loose ? I would think if it was the blade the scoring would be continuous across the cut, not in bands. Is the miter gauge exactly 90 degrees to both the blade itself and miter slot ,which may produce the bands when the blade is leading the cut and the correcting. Roly
December 18, 20187 yr 17 minutes ago, Roly said: Could something be moving such as the bevel adjustment or something else loose ? I would think if it was the blade the scoring would be continuous across the cut, not in bands. Is the miter gauge exactly 90 degrees to both the blade itself and miter slot ,which may produce the bands when the blade is leading the cut and the correcting. Roly I'm wondering the same Roly although can't account for why no issues with other blades. Dan...I'm guessing you have already checked, but since you're cutting SYP is there any excess pitch build up that once warm/hot might contribute to the scoring? Are the (4) heat dissipation slots completely clean? What type of back-up are you using on your miter gauge? Do you have some sort of small relief cut across the bottom, ie bevel or dado to prevent dust build-up? 220-320 grit sandpaper backer to minimize any stock creep?
December 18, 20187 yr Math is not my strong suit but, it looks like there is a 0.0030 difference between points #2 and #8. Is that enough difference to make a difference?
December 18, 20187 yr 27 minutes ago, Gene Howe said: Math is not my strong suit but, it looks like there is a 0.0030 difference between points #2 and #8. Is that enough difference to make a difference? Btwn 3 & 4 and 3 & 8 there would be a .0045 difference.
December 18, 20187 yr 12 minutes ago, Cal said: Btwn 3 & 4 and 3 & 8 there would be a .0045 difference. See, I tole you. Math ain't my thing. I wonder if those differences might be the problem???? Plus, we don't know what the other side measures. I think the blade is wonky. Wonder what a rip would look like. Edited December 18, 20187 yr by Gene Howe
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