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Replace Box Sill

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  • Author
50 minutes ago, Stick486 said:

@LarryS  what kind of flooring do you have inside the house???...

The flooring is 1/2" plywood with particle board on top of that with carpet on top of that. 

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  • raise the house a half inch... the whole 20'... more if you absolutely have to... replace the rotted sill w/ PT timber rated as follows... use a bituminous membrane barrier between the block

  • Been really busy tearing apart and replacing. Got the box sill replaced, new foundation vents in. The rental place doesn't rent bottle jacks anymore so I went and bought 4 20 ton Hydraulic Heavy

  • a few degrees of slope will be a major help... you need a minimum of 8'' of space between the dirt and siding...

Posted Images

is that pieces of T1-11 sheathing laying on the ground???

was there a drip edge or drip lip at the bottom edge of the siding???...

2 minutes ago, LarryS said:

The flooring is 1/2" plywood with particle board on top of that with carpet on top of that. 

that is some saving grace...

@LarryS

Ok now I can see what you're working with.

Since you have the wall down to the sheathing you could support the wall from the outside by screwing a 2x6 across the wall and using a few bottle jacks or camper jacks to take the weight off the end joist.

  • Author
1 minute ago, Stick486 said:

WTB that is a wet moldy crawl space...

The crawl space has Visqueen Vapor Barrier. I'm to get under the house a crawl around with no problem.

2 minutes ago, LarryS said:

The crawl space has Visqueen Vapor Barrier. I'm to get under the house a crawl around with no problem.

Since the crawl space is accessible you could also support the wall from beneath using a 4x4 on jacks just shy of the outside joist.

  • Author
1 minute ago, Larry Buskirk said:

@LarryS

Ok now I can see what you're working with.

Since you have the wall down to the sheathing you could support the wall from the outside by screwing a 2x6 across the wall and using a few bottle jacks or camper jacks to take the weight off the end joist.

I can put the 2x6 on the outside!! 👍

Now I just have to see if the rental place has bottle jacks.

 

1 minute ago, LarryS said:

I can put the 2x6 on the outside!! 👍

Now I just have to see if the rental place has bottle jacks.

 

Just make sure to use long screws and screw into the studs.

Do you know anyone with a camping trailer? See if you could borrow their leveling jacks.

  • Author
Just now, Larry Buskirk said:

Since the crawl space is accessible you could also support the wall from beneath using a 4x4 on jacks just shy of the outside joist.

I'm just about to crawl under the house and see how close the next floor joist is from the outside of the sill. 

I've been under the house lots of times and really don't remember. This will refresh my mind to see what I'm working with under their also.

2 minutes ago, LarryS said:

'm just about to crawl under the house and see how close the next floor joist is from the outside of the sill. 

take pictures..

we need pictures...

  • Author
1 minute ago, Larry Buskirk said:

Just make sure to use long screws and screw into the studs.

Do you know anyone with a camping trailer? See if you could borrow their leveling jacks.

Yes on the screws 👍

I have a camper but no leveling jacks like that. 

 

Just now, Stick486 said:

take pictures..

we need pictures...

Ya, Larry's first photo looked like the wall was sitting on the inside edge of the sill plate. The rotted joist looked like it was 90°from the wall.

The second photo shows the rotted joist is part of the wall.

4 minutes ago, LarryS said:

Yes on the screws

timbermates, RSS, SPAX or GRKs structural screws rated for shear...

do not use lags...

 

FH09NOV_LAGSCR_03-2.jpg.6e7ac8c0fb78c80497b50e5c9eb3b223.jpg

18 minutes ago, LarryS said:

Now I just have to see if the rental place has bottle jacks.

go w/ house lifting jacks and not bottle jacks...

way safer...

25 minutes ago, LarryS said:

The crawl space has Visqueen Vapor Barrier

as low as that Radon vent is it lets all kinds of water flow into the crawl space...

On 10/22/2018 at 8:35 PM, Stick486 said:

replace the rotted sill w/ PT timber rated as follows...

use a bituminous membrane barrier between the block and sill

UC4A, Ground Contact, General Use

UC4B, Ground Contact, Heavy Duty

UC4C, Ground Contact, Extreme Duty

if you can't get the PT you need.. use redwood w/ the bituminous barrier...

Edited by Stick486

On 10/22/2018 at 6:32 PM, LarryS said:

I have to replace the box sill on the house.

Done yet???...

got some questions...

do hope you have some answers...

  1. what kind/type of siding was on the house???...
  2. was there any drip flashing on it at the bottom???...
  3. what kind barrier was under the siding..
  4. why is the wall still exposed to the elements???... you let the wall insulation get damp/wet you are really in for some trouble...
  5. did you remove the flashing from the windows???...
  6. have you peeled back your carpet's edge to see if there are more issues that have spread to the inside of the house???...
  7. will you be removing at least 16'' of the showing OSB on the bottom edge???...
  8. what is your mold/fungus abatement program???....

 

 

 

  • Author

Been really busy tearing apart and replacing. Got the box sill replaced, new foundation vents in.

The rental place doesn't rent bottle jacks anymore so I went and bought 4 20 ton Hydraulic Heavy Duty Bottle Jacks to help lift the house. Worked great. 

Putting treated plywood on the box getting ready to put house wrap on and then siding back up.

Then will have to do a bit of grading to keep the water away from the foundation. 

Sorry haven't had time to take pictures. Trying to get it all done before that white fluffy stuff starts flying.

Thanks everyone for advise!!!!

Glad things worked out for you Larry. :2030125484_TwoThumbsUp:

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