I took the time to take the motor off after I figured out that I didn't have to disassemble the entire unit (makes sense that it would come off without that...). 

So here's what I have:

1) The two white leads in the photo are open and show no value. 
2) There is no short or value between either lead and the commutator.
3) I went through the brush openings and checked resistance across the commutator segments 180° apart and all read the same.
4) It appears that going much further in this disassembly may require special tools, puller, etc.  I can get the gearbox off but that's not going to do much for me at this point.

 

David

 

Can you make a couple of jumpers with alligator clips and connect 120v directly to the white wires. That'll confirm if it's the motor.

I actually did that while it was still in the planer.  When I bypassed the breaker the wires were straight to the motor.  I'm thinking there's a DeWalt 735 in my future...

 

David

You will like the 735, You have your money out of that one.

Is that black soot I see? If so, something got way too hot!

I'm not really sure what that is but it never got hot, at least that I know about. 

 

I'm picking up another load of Walnut in the morning and need to mill that so a new DeWalt 735 will be here Monday. HD had an online special for the model with extra set of blades and the infeed/outfeed tables. The normal price for that is about $650 but they have it right now for $570 with free shipping to my door, which is less than the plain model without the extras.

David

On the 733 is appears the two white wires connect to the breaker with a double spade (female) connector?? If you have an old cord laying around, crimp on a couple male spade terminals, hang on to or secure the motor and plug it in. If the motor runs, something ahead of it has failed; if it doesn't the motor has failed; armature or field windings. IDK what a replacement motor costs, but might be worth the investment as a back-up machine??? 

Thanks, but I actually bypassed the breaker in a similar fashion to what you're describing and had the same results, which is no result really - didn't run or even try.

 

David

RIP-DW733 

At another site I frequent one of the members makes use of his old planer as a press for gluing some bowl blanks together.  Might give that some thought before tossing it to the curb.

Thanks to all for the suggestions and help!  I may repurpose this planer; I'll let you know what happens to it but a veneer press is exactly what I have in mind.

 

David

Well, I thought I was through with this topic but when I saw the blades I had to post a photo.  I have not sharpened or replaced blades in the entire 20 years I've had this planer.  This is the first time I've even seen them except to take a glance from the working side on occasion.

 

Not too bad after 20 years -

 

David

I love my 735 but doubt you'll get 20 years on the new blades

 

Those blade bolts beat the heck out of the ones on the 735. After reading about problems with the Allen head bolts, on the earlier 735, I went to Fastenal and bought replacement bolts of a higher grade. Installed them using "anti-seize". They may have upgraded the bolts on more recent models so this may be a moot point.

 

.

12 hours ago, difalkner said:

I'm not really sure what that is but it never got hot, at least that I know about. 

 

I'm picking up another load of Walnut in the morning and need to mill that so a new DeWalt 735 will be here Monday. HD had an online special for the model with extra set of blades and the infeed/outfeed tables. The normal price for that is about $650 but they have it right now for $570 with free shipping to my door, which is less than the plain model without the extras.

David

David, that is a good deal on that new planer.

When you set it up be sure to raise the infeed and outfeed  extension tables on the leading/leaving edges 1/16" to eliminate snipe.

Herb

37 minutes ago, Dadio said:

David, that is a good deal on that new planer.

When you set it up be sure to raise the infeed and outfeed  extension tables on the leading/leaving edges 1/16" to eliminate snipe.

Herb

And/or, a stationary sled works, too. I use a 36" x 12" piece of stock shelving from the BORG. 

3 hours ago, Dadio said:

David, that is a good deal on that new planer.

When you set it up be sure to raise the infeed and outfeed  extension tables on the leading/leaving edges 1/16" to eliminate snipe.

Herb

Is that the 'trick' to eliminate snipe on this model?  I got it about 50% of the time on the 733 but figured out how to reduce or eliminate it.  This one will be all new so I don't know any tricks.

David

3 hours ago, Gene Howe said:

And/or, a stationary sled works, too. I use a 36" x 12" piece of stock shelving from the BORG. 

Gene, do you have a photo of your sled?  That would be helpful - thanks!

David

Just lifting it up a fuzzz feeding in and coming out will do too.

If I remember right there are adjustment screws on the extensions where they bolt on, been awhile.

I lot of guys use the sled, you loose an inch in height though.

Herb

Edited September 21, 20178 yr by Dadio

1 hour ago, difalkner said:

Gene, do you have a photo of your sled?  That would be helpful - thanks!

David

I do but, gotta wait till I can get to my desk top to post from there.

Herb, it raises to 5". Rarely do I have the need for that much. Besides, it's only 3/4" lost....but, who's counting? 

Here ya go, David.

I was wrong. It's 48" long, not 36".

1. Infeed

2. Outfeed

3. Bar to catch the front edge of the extended table so it can't slide through.

In case you can't tell, the board is MDF and coated with PVA...I think. Anyways, it's slick.

If I had room, I'd use the whole 8' length that I bought.