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DeWalt 733 planer died today

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I bought it new in 1997 and used it off and on for the first 17 years but in the last 3 I have used it a lot, sometimes daily.  It has always run fine but today I turned it on and it ran for 1/2 a second then quit.  Here's what I know:

 

1) It is getting power, I even switched to different circuit altogether
2) I pulled the switch out to verify that it is good
3) The brushes, though original, are still 1/2" long and show no signs of chipping or abnormal wear
4) The wires on the brushes are intact and the springs have plenty of tension
5) The motor is easy to spins (took the side covers off to verify)
6) The 18 amp built-in breaker on the top of the motor is in the position it should be in
7) In shining a light onto the commutator I see no chips or bridged arcs between segments

 

I don't really want to spend the money on a new planer and would rather get this one running again.  I can order new brushes just to rule that out but again, the current ones look fine to me.

 

Ideas?

 

David

Edited by Ron Dudelston
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  • Here ya go, David. I was wrong. It's 48" long, not 36". 1. Infeed 2. Outfeed 3. Bar to catch the front edge of the extended table so it can't slide through. In case you can't

  • I had to go out to the shop and see if my 733 has that  breaker. Never noticed it before. Yours is a type 1 and mine a type 2 but they do look the same.    Can you get to the wires on the breaker

  • I'm not really sure what that is but it never got hot, at least that I know about.    I'm picking up another load of Walnut in the morning and need to mill that so a new DeWalt 735 will be h

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Call the Dewalt service center and see how they feel about it. I have a 733 bought about the same time. Still no problem but I been thinking about putting a new set of brushes in now before they go out. I have better luck changing them before they are needed on any of the motors. The service center I use , Fort Worth, have some very  good people at what they do and hopefully there is a service center close to you.

   You have checked everything I would check

Another thing, after all those years, there could be a break in the power cord wire. This usually happens near the back of the plug or at the strain relief where the cord enters the unit. Try turning the switch on and wiggling the wire as it goes into the plug and into the strain relief.

Are you sure that you have power all of the way to the motor? It sounds like you have checked the individual components, buuutttt...power cord to the switch to the breaker to the motor...here is where a mulit-meter is our friend. Confirm you have power in and out/continuity before moving to the next component in line. If you have power all of the way to the motor with no unbroken/faulty wiring, then you may be looking at a faulty or burnt internal issue to the motor. It may not be evident visually.

 

You need to look real close at the armature and the field for breaks.

 

https://www.ereplacementparts.com/article/942/Tool_Diagnosis_Is_it_the_Brushes_or_the_Switch.html

 

https://www.ereplacementparts.com/article/968/Diagnosing_Electric_Power_Tools_101.html

 

 

 

My performax drum sander did this similarly and it was the overload switch that went out and had to be replaced.

My suggestion is to check the continuity of the breaker on the motor and the field coils with a tester.

Herb

Edited by Dadio

  • Author

I called DeWalt and they couldn't help - 38 minutes total on the phone but only about 7 talking to someone, the rest was listening to Mozart.  They recommended two service centers in Shreveport, neither are a DeWalt center but they are approved for service.  One doesn't work on DeWalt, only Porter Cable.  The other suggested I hit the motor with my hand or dead blow hammer to see if a loose wire might be the cause.  He said I could bring it to them and they'll check it out at no charge but I'm not so sure I want that sort of 'service'.  Maybe they have a knack for hitting things and they start working, I don't know...

 

I took the switch completely out, powered it up with two different circuits, and checked voltage on the leads coming off the switch.  I have a full 120 volts coming in and going out.

 

It ran fine yesterday and it's never overheated or gotten jammed.  It's in our climate controlled shop so no climate extremes or moisture. 

 

This is the position of the breaker switch, looks to me like that's where it's supposed to be.  And it doesn't want to move at all other than a slight rocking back and forth but it's always been like that.  And it has never tripped.

59c051fd7eeff_001-Breakerswitch.JPG.6d6c2d02a3b57332b17feedd781a6613.JPG

 

59c051fe9207d_002-Breakerswitch.JPG.1f8a87be51ee0dfa3f7fb8d53dbdc18f.JPG

 

David

 

suspect the continuity on the breaker...

a brush may be hanging up...

  • Author

They're both very free moving so I doubt it's that, Stick.  The breaker is far more suspect but much more involved to get to for checking.  That's gonna have to wait until later in the week

 

David

ya know.. things may ohm out okay but thermally open when voltage is applied...

I had to go out to the shop and see if my 733 has that  breaker. Never noticed it before. Yours is a type 1 and mine a type 2 but they do look the same. 

  Can you get to the wires on the breaker and by pass it just to see if that is what the trouble is. I do that to my riding mower at times just for my way of eliminating things.

   Too bad you don't have a good Dewalt service center close. This place has a shop full of guys who knows their stuff..never taken the planer but the 788 scroll saw they knew exactly what I was explaining two different times. My breaker wiggles like you say yours does.

    I did have dirt dobbers fill a cut off saw full of their homes and could not get it to run. I went in the house and told my wife her brother brought back the saw he borrowed months ago and it will not work. And I said he even put a new blade on it I guess to cover the cost of fixing it but that was kind of strange.... Later I tore it down and realized after I cleaned out all the dried mud it ran like a new one.........I never did have the heart to tell her brother what I thought of him for a while.....

It wouldn't hurt to blow the dust out of the motor.  I don't have a Dewalt but my planer has a safety switch so it doesn't turn on with the covers rermoved to replace the blades.   

does the 733 have a lockout safety switch???

  • Author
6 hours ago, Stick486 said:

does the 733 have a lockout safety switch???

 

Not that I have ever seen, Stick.  Just the on/off paddle switch.

David

  • Author
9 hours ago, HandyDan said:

It wouldn't hurt to blow the dust out of the motor.  I don't have a Dewalt but my planer has a safety switch so it doesn't turn on with the covers rermoved to replace the blades.   

 

Yes sir, blew the dust out yesterday but there wasn't much.  I keep it pretty clean.

David

David, Not that this answers your question(s) or resolves the problem, but I stumbled on to this site...Unfortunately they don't have any videos or troubleshooting dialogue up & running for the 733 yet.

I have used their site for troubleshooting and repair guides for specific model appliance repairs and they're spot on...Might give them a call anyway???

 

https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/a47b411/Planer-Joiner-Repair/DeWalt-Planer-Joiner-Repair

  • Author

I got to thinking that maybe I can see the breaker through the switch opening if I remove the switch and I can see it just fine, no disassembly necessary.  And the good thing is that the breaker is closed so I can rule that out.  I still don't really have time to break the unit down to get the motor out so that may have to wait.

 

59c1acd512150_003-Breakerinside.JPG.dbe0a943ac2a9af125ec91ee8813be93.JPG

 

David

Can you pull the wires off and test it for continuity? and while the wires are off test them for continuity with the switch in on position (with no power). This will tell you if the motor is getting power with and without the breaker.

Herb

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