August 30, 20178 yr 14 hours ago, schnewj said: Someone, please, tell me why I would ever need something this heavy. Because you CAN Edited August 30, 20178 yr by Chips N Dust
August 30, 20178 yr I've never seen a need for those clamps. 3/4" pipe clamps are plenty good. But there was another need along with the pipe clamps.. and some years ago I solved that problem. With this set up I can use my vise grips from the top and the bottom when I am edge gluing to keep things lined up so I will have less flattening after the glue has dried. One more step is important before I am finished to let the glue dry. Using a rubber hammer I drive the boards down on to the pipes as the clamps are tightened. As long as I use a flat surface to start with, my table saw, all the pipes will be the same height allowing the glue ups to end up flat........Using 1x4" ash all the holes in the clamps and the ash wood does need to be exactly in the same places but hey, you are a wood worker and precision is your name!!! Now if you are using the f clamps getting line up clamps on both sides of the boards will be a problem. Not just anything under the clamps will work.... because the exact thickness is needed. With using the pipes I have built in the height requirements...
August 30, 20178 yr I just priced the new IBeam clamps at Highland Woodworking. Actually, the price is on par with a comparable Revo K. If I had to choose, I'd still go with the Revo's. The Revo's are capable of 1500# vs. 7000#. If you can't do the job with 1500# ...
August 30, 20178 yr Wouldn't 7,000 lbs squeeze all the glue out of the joint, resulting in a weak glue-up? John
August 30, 20178 yr 1 hour ago, HARO50 said: Wouldn't 7,000 lbs squeeze all the glue out of the joint, resulting in a weak glue-up? John I was thinking the same thing, maybe that is the limit they will go before they fail. Herb
August 31, 20178 yr Author I had thought about making some of my own, but I prefer to start with some stuff that is a little more precision to help me do a little more precision. I was using clothes line and it looked like a Japanese bonding technique!, but it worked! And I am tired of doing all of that.
August 31, 20178 yr I just saw the video for the first time, I like those clamps! I would have no problem having those in my shop in my clamping arsenal. Are there alternatives? Sure. But those are cool, I must admit, a bit more in cost than I thought they would be though.
August 31, 20178 yr 10 hours ago, HARO50 said: Wouldn't 7,000 lbs squeeze all the glue out of the joint, resulting in a weak glue-up? John I don't think you could ever squeeze enough glue out to weaken a joint, the more you squeeze the better actually, IMO. Crushing the wood fibers together while forcing the glue into the pours, is actually a good thing.
August 31, 20178 yr Author Yeah, they are cool...LOL But I can certainly live with the pipe clamps! And yeah, I was also thinking about the glue being pushed out at a certain point! LOL By the way...why is everyone saying 7,000 lbs.? I thought he said 700#?? I all ready deleted the E-mail or I woul...oh heck! I will go find the silly video...you got me curious now! DOH! It's on the first page! hahaha Oh dang! I was in denial-he DID say 7K!!! WOW!!! NO WONDER he was able to force that mortise and tenon together! hahaha And OH FRICK!!! They are expensive!!! Nevermindddd....ohhh a 2-pack...a little better. OH!!! I just thought of a reason we might need 7K# of pressure!!! Some of us, I know I do, know some people with very thick skulls!!! Maybe we could finally get through to them! Edited August 31, 20178 yr by DerBengel
August 31, 20178 yr 6 minutes ago, DerBengel said: Yeah, they are cool...LOL But I can certainly live with the pipe clamps! I do have pipe clamps too, they are inexpensive, and you get a lot of torque. Hey DerBengel, never worry about squeezing too much glue out, it's really not an issue, truly.
August 31, 20178 yr Author Good to know! I really thought if it was too thin it would really have much grasp. But I definitely trust you on that. Thanks!
August 31, 20178 yr Just now, DerBengel said: Good to know! I really thought if it was too thin it would really have much grasp. But I definitely trust you on that. Thanks! The whole squeeze glue out theory is pretty much dead. It was an old school thought, and it seemed logical, but it's been long proven to be an urban myth of sorts.
August 31, 20178 yr Author I tell you, every time we turn around, we learn we learned wrong and need to unlearn and relearn...no matter what the topic is! LOL
August 31, 20178 yr 6 minutes ago, DerBengel said: I tell you, every time we turn around, we learn we learned wrong and need to unlearn and relearn...no matter what the topic is! LOL The only exception would be end grain to end grain glue ups, but that is not a very good practice to begin with. But if you must glue end grain to end grain, you would want to smear a thin coat of glue on both end grain joints to be glued, let dry in order to seal the end grain, then you can proceed to glue. But with end grain glue ups, I would still look for a better joinery method than glue, perhaps a mechanical joint and glue for end grain joinery.
August 31, 20178 yr 9 minutes ago, DerBengel said: every time we turn around, we learn we learned wrong and need to unlearn and relearn Every day DerBengel, every day! Just when I think I am comfortable in my practices in woodworking, some one comes along and shatters my world with something better and more rational, and the worse, they tell me I have been doing it wrong all this time, and they are right!
August 31, 20178 yr I think they have improved the glue strengths considerably since the old horse hoof and hide glues and the stinky fish glues, Herb
August 31, 20178 yr Popular Post I've read that a one molecule thick layer of glue is all that's necessary. But my spreader is only adjustable down too 3 molecules. So, I get some squeeze out.
August 31, 20178 yr 28 minutes ago, Gene Howe said: I've read that a one molecule thick layer of glue is all that's necessary. But my spreader is only adjustable down too 3 molecules. So, I get some squeeze out. Spread the glue to 3 molecules, then go over it with the shopvac. It will take off the top 2 molecules, leaving the exact amount needed! John I just KNOW someone is going to try this!
August 31, 20178 yr 8 hours ago, John Morris said: Just when I think I am comfortable in my practices in woodworking, some one comes along and shatters my world with something better and more rational, and the worse, they tell me I have been doing it wrong all this time, and they are right! Like you just did to me! If I ever bump into that shop teacher I'll give HIM a piece of my mind! If I have any left, that is. John
August 31, 20178 yr With the new improved glues, I have just held two pieces of wood tight for a couple of minutes and let set for an hour and when I broke them apart the wood gave loose and the glue held tight. Herb
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