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Showing results for tags 'solvent'.
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Solvents dissolve things. Thinners thin things.
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Copied from a post on a refinishing forum: In furniture refinishing, selecting the right type of stripper depends on the type of finish you’re working with, as different formulas are more effective on specific coatings. 1. Solvent-Based Strippers: These are usually effective for removing clear topcoats, such as lacquers, varnishes, and shellacs. They work by breaking down the resin in these finishes, which can then be wiped or scraped off. Look for strippers containing methylene chloride or NMP (N-Methyl-2-pyrrolidone) as they’re generally fast-acting but can be harsh, requiring good ventilation and protective gear. 2. Caustic-Based Strippers: These strippers are often used on more stubborn paints and enamels, as they break down both oil- and latex-based paints well. However, they’re not ideal for furniture with fine details, as the caustic elements can raise wood grain. They’re also less suitable for epoxy finishes, which can be too tough for caustics alone. 3. Biochemical or Citrus-Based Strippers: These are milder and more environmentally friendly, suitable for removing lighter topcoats or single layers of paint but less effective on thicker, more durable coatings like epoxies. They’re ideal for detailed work and delicate surfaces, though they can be slower-acting. 4. Specialty Epoxy Strippers: For epoxy and similar high-durability coatings, a specialized epoxy remover is often needed. These are specifically formulated to break down epoxy resins, which can resist typical paint strippers. When choosing a stripper, always match it to the coating type, test in a small area, and allow for sufficient dwell time. This approach minimizes the risk of damage and saves time by using the right formula for the job. Here are some recommended products within each category to help you handle a variety of finishes and coatings effectively: 1. Solvent-Based Strippers: Klean-Strip Premium Stripper: This powerful, fast-acting stripper with methylene chloride works well on tough topcoats like varnish, lacquer, and shellac. It’s effective for quick, deep penetration, but it’s essential to use proper ventilation. Jasco Premium Paint and Epoxy Remover: Another strong option containing methylene chloride, which works well on multiple layers of varnish, shellac, and polyurethane finishes. This is good for heavy-duty jobs but should be used cautiously due to its potency. 2. Caustic-Based Strippers: Smart Strip Advanced Paint Remover: A strong, caustic, water-based formula that works well on multiple layers of paint. It’s designed for removing heavy paints and enamels, both oil- and latex-based, though not ideal for epoxy or high-resin coatings. Peel Away® 1 Heavy-Duty Paint Remover: This caustic remover is designed for historical restoration projects where multiple layers of paint need to be removed. It’s excellent on oil-based and latex paints but less suitable for clear topcoats. 3. Biochemical or Citrus-Based Strippers: Citristrip Paint and Varnish Stripping Gel: A popular citrus-based stripper that’s low-odor and safer to use indoors. It’s ideal for lighter finishes, clear coats, and some paint but can struggle with thicker coatings. Best for gentle, detailed work on wood and metal surfaces. EcoFast Gel Paint Remover: A biodegradable, user-friendly option that’s great for removing topcoats, latex paints, and some oil-based finishes. It’s slower-acting but safe for delicate or intricate woodwork. 4. Specialty Epoxy Strippers: TotalBoat TotalStrip Paint and Epoxy Remover: Specifically formulated for tougher coatings like epoxies, this stripper works on resin-based finishes, anti-fouling paints, and other heavy-duty coatings. It’s ideal for marine or industrial finishes that resist standard removers. Aqua-Strip Marine Paint Remover: Another option tailored for removing epoxy, urethane, and other resilient coatings. This water-based, low-VOC remover is designed to be safe on multiple surfaces, including fiberglass and metal. These products cover a range of needs, from stripping delicate finishes to tackling tough epoxy and multi-layer paints. Always test in a small area to confirm effectiveness on the specific coating and substrate, and follow safety guidelines for each product.
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Microsoft reminded me of "memories of this day" for a fix I did years ago. There obviously was some sort of solvent (most likely nail polish remover, a kind of lacquer thinner, usually) on a dining chair. The fix was just to apply some clear touch up lacquer, let if dry, probably with some help with a hair drier. That just took a minute or two. Do some light sanding. Repeat until it's level and color returned. Sometimes, you need to apply a final coat of lacquer over the whole thing to match the sheen. Lacquer will dissolve layers below, essentially making one layer of finish, unlike other finishes like oil and waterborne poly where the layers are always distinct. They also take much longer to dry, so a quick on-site fix is not possible. In my 20 or so years of furniture repair, I think I had 3 pieces that were not factory finished with lacquer of some sort.
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First off, there is a difference between a thinner and a solvent. A solvent dissolves things. A thinner thins things DUH (reduces the solids and alters the viscosity). What makes thins even more confusing is they way they name things. Lacquer thinner both dissolves and thins (because it contains both solvents, co-solvents, and thinners). Paint Thinner thins varnishes, but dissolves waxes. But anyway, (chemistry lesson) 1. Distillates generally of petroleum. Common ones are mineral spirits and naphtha. Less commonly used ones are kerosene, xylene (xylol), toluene (tolulol), benzene (a carcinogen), and benzine, and even turpentine (a distillate of pine sap). These have different evaporation rates, oiliness, and smells. These generally thin (oil-based) varnishes and are in some lacquer thinners. Xylene will soften cured water-borne finishes. Most of these will dissolve waxes, oils, and some adhesives. d-Limonene is a distillate of citrus rinds; it's found in some cleaners/polishes/degreasers/adhesive removers. 2. Alcohols and Ketones. Alcohols include ethanol, methanol, and isopropyl. "Denatured alcohol" is ethanol (grain alcohol - everclear booze) with enough methanol (wood alcohol) added to make it poisonous to drink (and so it does not need to be taxed as booze). Chemically, a ketone is an oxidized alcohol. Common ones are acetone and MEK. Alcohol is a solvent for shellac and alcohols and ketones are often part of lacquer thinners. 3. Glycol Ethers are a large class of chemicals and are in water-borne finishes. Two major classes are ethylene glycol or propylene glycol. They soften and make sticky the large resin molecules. As the glycol ethers evaporate the resin molecules bond together. Cellosolve is a trademark for a glycol ether.
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If you've got a "dirty" solvent, one used to clean brushes or spray guns, how do you get rid of it? First option is to re-use it. If you are using a paint thinner to clean brushes, just put a cap on it and let the solids settle out. I use a "toucan" system. Can 2 (that I mark as jar II) is the dirty jar, and the first rinse of the brush. Jar I is the cleaner jar and used for the second rinse. When jar II gets so full of solids, it's not effective, I let it settle and pour off the clear to jar I. Then I mark jar I to jar II (just add an I) and it becomes the first rinse jar. Then I get a clean jar and fill with fresh paint thinner and it becomes jar I. Similar process to clean spray guns used for lacquer or shellac. Except the gunk does not settle out to the bottom, so proceed to next step after a number of uses. Second is to discard it. Local laws vary a lot here, so check to see what is legal and illegal. If your community has a hazardous waste collection day, that's a good choice. You can put the solvent/thinner/gunk in a jar and let the volatiles evaporate away. Put it somewhere where it will be protected from weather, away from kids and animals, but gets some fresh air. It can help to add in a bunch of sawdust to increase the surface area. Once turned to a solid, you can dispose of in the trash. You can use this technique to discard old, expired, or unused finishes, too. If you have a spray gun, you might spray the solvent to let it evaporate away. Really no different than spraying the finish and having the solvent flash off. Don't just pour down the drain. (short and simple this week -- I was away all last week)
