Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'stripper'.
Found 3 results
-
Copied from a post on a refinishing forum: In furniture refinishing, selecting the right type of stripper depends on the type of finish you’re working with, as different formulas are more effective on specific coatings. 1. Solvent-Based Strippers: These are usually effective for removing clear topcoats, such as lacquers, varnishes, and shellacs. They work by breaking down the resin in these finishes, which can then be wiped or scraped off. Look for strippers containing methylene chloride or NMP (N-Methyl-2-pyrrolidone) as they’re generally fast-acting but can be harsh, requiring good ventilation and protective gear. 2. Caustic-Based Strippers: These strippers are often used on more stubborn paints and enamels, as they break down both oil- and latex-based paints well. However, they’re not ideal for furniture with fine details, as the caustic elements can raise wood grain. They’re also less suitable for epoxy finishes, which can be too tough for caustics alone. 3. Biochemical or Citrus-Based Strippers: These are milder and more environmentally friendly, suitable for removing lighter topcoats or single layers of paint but less effective on thicker, more durable coatings like epoxies. They’re ideal for detailed work and delicate surfaces, though they can be slower-acting. 4. Specialty Epoxy Strippers: For epoxy and similar high-durability coatings, a specialized epoxy remover is often needed. These are specifically formulated to break down epoxy resins, which can resist typical paint strippers. When choosing a stripper, always match it to the coating type, test in a small area, and allow for sufficient dwell time. This approach minimizes the risk of damage and saves time by using the right formula for the job. Here are some recommended products within each category to help you handle a variety of finishes and coatings effectively: 1. Solvent-Based Strippers: Klean-Strip Premium Stripper: This powerful, fast-acting stripper with methylene chloride works well on tough topcoats like varnish, lacquer, and shellac. It’s effective for quick, deep penetration, but it’s essential to use proper ventilation. Jasco Premium Paint and Epoxy Remover: Another strong option containing methylene chloride, which works well on multiple layers of varnish, shellac, and polyurethane finishes. This is good for heavy-duty jobs but should be used cautiously due to its potency. 2. Caustic-Based Strippers: Smart Strip Advanced Paint Remover: A strong, caustic, water-based formula that works well on multiple layers of paint. It’s designed for removing heavy paints and enamels, both oil- and latex-based, though not ideal for epoxy or high-resin coatings. Peel Away® 1 Heavy-Duty Paint Remover: This caustic remover is designed for historical restoration projects where multiple layers of paint need to be removed. It’s excellent on oil-based and latex paints but less suitable for clear topcoats. 3. Biochemical or Citrus-Based Strippers: Citristrip Paint and Varnish Stripping Gel: A popular citrus-based stripper that’s low-odor and safer to use indoors. It’s ideal for lighter finishes, clear coats, and some paint but can struggle with thicker coatings. Best for gentle, detailed work on wood and metal surfaces. EcoFast Gel Paint Remover: A biodegradable, user-friendly option that’s great for removing topcoats, latex paints, and some oil-based finishes. It’s slower-acting but safe for delicate or intricate woodwork. 4. Specialty Epoxy Strippers: TotalBoat TotalStrip Paint and Epoxy Remover: Specifically formulated for tougher coatings like epoxies, this stripper works on resin-based finishes, anti-fouling paints, and other heavy-duty coatings. It’s ideal for marine or industrial finishes that resist standard removers. Aqua-Strip Marine Paint Remover: Another option tailored for removing epoxy, urethane, and other resilient coatings. This water-based, low-VOC remover is designed to be safe on multiple surfaces, including fiberglass and metal. These products cover a range of needs, from stripping delicate finishes to tackling tough epoxy and multi-layer paints. Always test in a small area to confirm effectiveness on the specific coating and substrate, and follow safety guidelines for each product.
- 3 replies
-
- 5
-
-
-
- restoration
- stripping
- (and 5 more)
-
I belong to group on furniture repair and refinishing. I finally had enough when I see people post problems when they "sand off the old finish" and have a variety of problems. I asked why people just don't use a stripper, which in my experience (as a pro and hobbyist) is faster, better, and less risky, though a bit messy. Since posting earlier this afternoon, it has over 100 comments. Pro and con. You know, you don't want to use "chemicals." (Chemical, n., anything that has mass and occupies space).
-
TGIF stripping Sometimes, we’re faced with stripping and refinishing a piece of furniture. Finishes that are cracked severely or turned soft and gooey are beyond trying to save. Getting the old finish off Generally speaking, scraping or sanding is a poor way to remove an old finish. Unless you are taking off a significant amount of wood (like on a floor refinish), your removal of finish and stain will likely be uneven. And it will take a long, long time and lots of sandpaper to remove an old finish. Even if it looks good in the raw state, there may be some areas where finish remains in the surface of the wood. Likewise, removing with a heat gun is risky because of potential damage to the wood and glues. The way to go is with a chemical stripper. There are several types. With all types, be sure to wear eye and skin protection (including chemical-resistant gloves) and work in a ventilated area. While using a chemical stripper is messy and can be smelly, it’s usually over much faster than sanding and going through many sheets of gummed up sandpaper. Bite the bullet. Methylene Chloride (MC) This is the most common type and has been used for many years. It’s also one of the strongest and fastest working Be sure to use this in a well-ventilated area. This type is usually considered to work “from the bottom up” releasing the bond between the finish and the wood. It evaporates fairly quickly, so some types include a wax as a vapor sealer. For the same reason, put on a thick coat and don’t keep working it around. Another technique is to put on the stripper and cover it with a sheet of plastic (VisQueen). Let it work, usually longer than the can recommends, and scrape off with a putty knife and discard the gunk. A bucket of can of sawdust works well to hold the goo. MC is heavy so look for the can with the heaviest weight and it will have a better concentration of MC. Safety warning: MC is a suspected carcinogen. I have a friend who died from cancer that he attributed to his PhD lab work with MC. But tests have been somewhat inconclusive. Also it can affect the oxygen carrying capacity of your blood – don’t use this if you have a heart condition. N-methyl Pyrrolidone (NMP) Sometimes sold as “safe” or “citrus” strippers. It is a slower evaporating and slower working stripper. It is said to “work from the top down.” The recommended stripping dwell time is often optimistic, so let it work. Likewise, putting on a sheet of plastic will keep it wet longer. I’ve often put it on in the morning and let it work to mid-afternoon. Some people let it work overnight. NMP strippers also make an excellent brush cleaner. Put some in a jar and soak your brushes in it. The next day, they’ll clean up with soap and water. Safety warning: NMP is not “harmless” but evaporates so slowly that it will mostly dissipate. But ventilate where possible. With either of the above, especially in semi-paste format, use a stiff brush, cord, or angled scrapers to get all the residue out of the convex areas such as carvings, turnings, and moldings. You can also use coarse sawdust such as from a jointer or planer rubbed into the softened finish. Because of the potential for wax or residues, I recommend scrubbing with a strong solvent like acetone, lacquer thinner, or even mineral spirits. Acetone-Toluene-Methanol. (ATM) This is a mix of solvents commonly found in lacquer thinner. These are often labeled “Furniture Refinisher” and not stripper. Formsby’s Furniture Refinisher is one common type. This is flammable and needs to also be used in a well-ventilated area. To use this type, you scrub the finish with steel wool or Scotch-Brite soaked in the stripper, keep dipping it in and scrubbing and wipe with a cloth dampened in same. This is perhaps more laborious (you don’t just apply and wait). I’d recommend this for small objects only. ATM are effective on shellac, lacquer (the most common factory finish) and water based finishes, but not so much on varnishes. Lye (Sodium Hydroxide) This will remove some finishes, but has IMO, several disadvantages. It is very caustic and your skin and eyes need to be very protected. Vapors can also be noxious. It has become harder to obtain (you used to be able to find it grocery stores) since it’s used in meth labs. And it can alter the color of some woods via chemical reaction. Lye can also degrade some wood fibers. Residues , a strong alkali, may affect some finishes if not thoroughly rinsed. So scratch this one off your list. OK, so you don’t like stripping or don’t have a place to do it (especially in the winter time). You can “sub it out” (@stick) and have a furniture refinisher do the stripping for you They are likely to throw it in a tank of hot stripper for a while, so it may affect the joinery. Just a warning. After the stripping. Regardless of what stripper you use, make sure it’s thoroughly rinsed of and removed. Then let it dry well, for several days if possible (ATM is a little more forgiving if you are going back over with a shellac or lacquer). Sand to remove the fuzzies. Remember, it was once sanded before it was finished, you don’t need to do very strong sanding unless you are removing defects. Be especially careful on veneered or plywood surfaces. It’s easy to sand through these. I normally do a light sanding with 180 or 200 grit. Once that you are at this stage, continue with your staining and finishing just like you would with a new wood project. >>> OK >>>> I'm reaching the end of my list of topics that came to mind. I'm open to suggestions. What would you like to see / discuss? Further reading Refinishing considered bad? Not always. http://masterpiecefurniture.com/design_notes/flexner/antiques_roadshow.html
