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Showing results for tags 'rust'.
Found 8 results
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Here I go AGAIN!! First--about 3 months ago waxed TS ---2 coats--got rust anyway Then last week used paint thinner to remove the 2 coats. Cleaned it off. Applied 2 coats @ 90 degrees to each other to "insure" coverage. Buffed by hand--to lazy to get the buffer out. Got rust anyway again. This time it looks like a forearm print--- I must have leaned on the table. It's a pretty close simile of my right forearm. So what to do??? Strip it down again & re wax? Strip it down and shoot it with gloss lacquer? Just shoot it with something small made of lead?? 380 or 38 don't have a 357 but could borrow one! Environment: garage in South Carolina low country, non a/c'd, hot (90 degree plus), humid 80-90 percent. Wax: 1st time Butchers Bowling Alley paste wax, 2nd time Mothers California gold car wax (no silicone--per the can) Kicker: It's ONLY the TS that is rusting. NONE on my Jet jointer, Hitachi BS, or HF lathe. TS is a Delta. They all live within 5 feet of each other. Is it even possible that some cast iron will rust more than others? Has anyone used anything like lacquer or shellac to coat a TS top? Success rate? I'm open to any & all suggestions Friend in same development hasn't waxed in over 3 years and hasn't had rust Thks smitty
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- rust removal
- table saw
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One of these #3 planes got torn down, cleaned up, and put back together, today. warning: Tain't purtty at the start.... Warned ya, didn't I ? PBBlaster soaked for a while, then started a tear down. Took a bit of prying to get two items loose Hammer to adjust the lateral lever out of the way, to get the tote off ( didn't wait long enough on the soak, snapped the bolt off for the tote...easy-out..) More "fun"...getting all of these apart....BIG screwdriver, hammer, and a pair of visegrips.... IF you are afraid to get your hand very, very DIRTY...turn back now....I left well enough alone, with the front bolt....will let it soak a while.. Usual wire wheels, belt sanders, and even a ROS....and a couple of shop rags....Visegrips to hold small parts while I clean things up.... getting there.. Almost done... Sole looks better than it did...Iron may or may not get reused...kind of thin..Turtle wax Polishing Compound to shine things up.. Handles got all the crud cleaned off...time to put things back together, for now...( until I bring the Easy Out kit to the shop..) What I started with... And what it looks like....after 2 hours of soak and work... May work on either the Craftsman No. 3, or the Stanley No. 6, Type 7/8 next....or wait until tomorrow...
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I have a very old scythe the I believe my grandfather used in the 40's. the blade is heavily rusted/pitted and I would like to "restore" it a bit for my son-in-law's barn. What does everyone recommend as a good rust remover? I can grind it off but with the pitting I fear too much of the old metal would be removed. If I could get a majority off without grinding I feel it will retain more of its originality. Any thoughts? Thanks Gary
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Anybody tried using electrolysis for removing rust to restore old woodworking hand tools? Got several planes and whatnot from my grandfather and would love to restore them if possible.
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Was trying to clean some rust off old saw plates that i had picked up for next to nothing and started to drop one. VOE says "don't try to catch it"; thus the title "let it go". Ha ha... funny, almost like catching the edge on the wire wheel (and no, i wasn't wearing gloves). Just be careful out there.
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Plan ''B'' rust clean up...
Stick486 posted a topic in Machinery, Tools, Research, Reviews and Safety
Plan ''B'' rust clean up... and cast iron table polishing... soak your heavy rust w/ solvent and rub it out w/ a concrete rubbing stone... (the one w/ the handle) do the final polishing w/ the solid polishing bricks... keep in mind these bricks come in grits from dig a crater to make it nice and shiny... also make sure you don't rub out your table dry or you will get scratches the size of canyons.. do the rubbing in circular motion and not in line... clean the solvent off of the table.. paint thinner to the rescue... wax and buff out the top... better than new... -
Seems he went downtown tonight....just to get some chinese takeout to eat....Apparently had to wait on it.....a certain store is right next door..... This is what he brought back..besides the fried rice and shrimp About $7-$8 a piece. One handle was MIA, and a knob was in need of a bit of work.. Cleaned the chucks off Hmmm, the one in front has Millers Falls Co. stamped all around the chuck. Seems to have been "Blued" at one time? The other two are clones of each other, haven't found a name on either..yet The missing handle I'll fix later. Involves some fancy glueing and drilling, and some spokeshave work....not tonight. As for that ugly knob? LOL...take your pick. Anyway, them nails just had to go. Pulled them, and found a strip of packing tape inside...it was tossed as well. Oil on some moving parts, found some small screws, and some fresh wood to screw into... it might just work.. A wipe on of BLO on the wood. Ratchet works now, and is oiled up. Couple of the others are also oiled up in the moving parts. Maybe a day or two, I might make a handle for that other one. Then paint it RED. Somebody trained my Grandson right....
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Been a busy yard sale season so far. Never spending all that much each time, though. Case in point, Found a small dovetail saw on a Thursday sale, they wanted too much...$8 Came back on Saturday...price was now $5...sold. More on that later. Started out the saturday morning run with a stop at a garage sale...not much there....wait, what is this? Looks like a stanley #5 jack plane. Well got these two home, the jack plane was just $3, and started to clean up the jack plane......took the rear handle off....piece of folded paper? Unfolded it, faded lines, and some faded words.. HW Eaton Miamisburg, Oh March 18 1899 A Sales Reciept? Got to checking the thing over. Turns out it is a Type 6 No. 5. This after a bit of clean up. Rust is cone from the sides. There is a downside to this find Seems someone had drilled two holes for a fence to be added, and even countersunk them. Same patina as the rest, might even be as old. Tip of the horn is missing, as usual with these planes. The Stanley logo on the iron is a STANLEY Pat.Apl 19 92 Three patent dates on the lateral, couple on the right hand threaded wheel. Rosewood for the handles. Not too bad for $3? That saw was nice and sharp, just under 7" long, maybe 2" wide counting the spine. Cost more than a 100+ year old plane?
