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We have started our annual site fund raiser. There are some fantastic prizes to be had for the lucky winners. If you like this site, consider donating to the operating costs! Also, don't forget this coming Sunday is Mother's Day. We can't forget our Moms. Our Patriot Turners- It has been a slow week here on the Woodturner's Forum, so we will jump ahead to What's Coming Up What’s Coming Up- Click on the above image for more information. Looking for some inspiration, ideas or conversations on turning? Check out the World Wide Turners web site. Lots of great turners there- https://worldwidewoodturners.org/ For The Newbies- Last week we posted a video from Record Power on lathe maintenance. Here is the second part- Highland Woodworking published a nicely illustrated article on using the fingernail gouge, by Temple Blackwood- The article can be read here- https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodturning/woodturning-with-a-small-fingernail-gouge.html?utm_source=ActiveCampaign&utm_medium=email&utm_content=Read+the+May+2021+Issue+of+Wood+News+Online&utm_campaign=May+2021+Wood+News&vgo_ee=SSZUGqILrYqLrMaaxASZAzpxdzkQNl9LgdxZ9pnzLRY%3D Expand Your Horizons- Jim Rodgers has a very nice series on turning miniature articles. This is Part 1 and the others are referenced on his YouTube channel- I've been making Celtic Knot rolling pins for a long time. Although the wood I use matches the pepper mills and salt cellars I make, I always wished there was a way to duplicate the knot in those items. Thanks to Alan Stratton, I think this might be the answer- Our sponsor, Laguna, linked this video on social media. Turning a coffee spoon. It incorporates multiple media and some cool jigs. New Turning Items- We mentioned these wooden threads before. Here's a short video, From Ron Brown, showing the steps to using them on a pet urn. Turner Carl Jacobson has quite a large following on social media. He recently posted a video answering questions about his favorite tools. The last tool he mentioned is a pneumatic sander. Here's the video- And the link to the sander he mentions- https://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/WK45950/ Also, check out his comments about that awesome Easy Wood Chuck The folks at Woodturners Wonders have a new product to help fill those cracks and splits in your turning. It can also be used for decorating and embellishments- Check it out at- https://woodturnerswonders.com/collections/featured-products/products/wonder-putty-two-part-sculpting-epoxy Everything Else- Rick Turns list of woodturning YouTube videos from last week- Safe Turning and stay well aaa
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There are a number of ways to repair minor damage or defects. What you choose is somewhat dependent upon when in the finishing process it appears and the type of damage. Dents Dents can occur in the raw wood (AKA white wood) or at any stage of finishing, including in a piece that’s finished and in use. You can often get out small dents, or at least 90% of the damage, by wetting the wood and steaming. In white wood you can just add in some water, let it soak for a while and applying some light heat with an old clothes iron over a damp cloth. (If you like being married, don’t just sneak your wife’s from the sewing room. I get mine as hand-me-downs when they need replacement). In a finished piece you can do the same thing, but you may need to poke some holes through the finish with a pin. If the wood has pronounced grain, like oak, you can reduce the pin prick look by hitting the open grain. Gaps or cracks Putty fill. There are a variety of putties, many in different colors and some even claiming to be “stainable.” Well, they do stain, but they often don’t look like wood when it’s stained (two parts of the wood might not even take the stain the same.) Perhaps a better approach is to stain and apply the first few coats of finish. Then get a colored putty or add some dye to a neutral colored putty, or several, and match the color near the crack. Apply the putty, let it dry, then apply the final coat of finish. Sawdust and glue. This may or may not work all that well. First, the sawdust will have significant portions of end-grain. Second, the glue may inhibit or alter the amount of stain absorbed. Some people have luck with this; I have not. Liquid epoxy Some people fill major damage such as cracks or knots with liquid epoxy. Poured in and sanded level when set. There is usually no attempt to match the color or grain but to use as an accent. Post –finish damage Wax sticks These are available in multiple colors. It can sometimes help to warm them slightly to make them softer. Again, you might mix several colors to mimic the wood graining. Most finishes don’t stick well to wax, so plan on using this after the finish, not during. Level by buffing. A piece of paper grocery bag works well for this. Epoxy putty or Polyester Filler These are good for larger damage, but you’ll need a way to restore the color and graining. The epoxy putty comes in sticks. Slice off a bit, mix with your fingers until uniform color and press into the damage. Depending upon the type it will harden in 5 – 60 minutes. While still soft, you can shape with an old credit card and soapy water. When partially set, it’s easy to trim with a chisel of razor blade. When fully set you can smooth with file or sandpaper. The polyester filler has a resin and a hardener. A common brand is Bondo. Mix together and apply to the damage. Shape when partially set with a chisel or razor blade and when set, with sandpaper. With both you’ll need to apply color to match. You can do this with marker pens made for touchup, colored toners, artists’ paints, colored pencils, or pigment powders. If the wood has open grain, you can restore this with very light cuts with a razor blade. Apply top coat finish when done. Burn-in repairs You do burn in repairs with a special stick of resin. You melt it with a heated knife and drip into the damage area. The knife is heated in an alcohol flame, a propane torch, a special "oven" or with an electric or butane knife. Then the fill is leveled with the knife. I find a “burn in balm” (sort of like Vaseline) helpful to keep the resin from smearing and the finish from being heat damaged. When level, abrade even with steel wool or sandpaper. I’ve seen a lot of people do these and no two seem to have the same technique. I’ve developed what has worked for me. When I was working full-time, I’d do these practically every day, sometimes up to 100 spots a day. There are two basic kinds of sticks, the traditional ones (originally called “shellac sticks”) that are hard and glossy, and the newer soft ones that have a lower sheen and are more resistant to impact damage. A good burn-in repair will be practically invisible if you get a good match on sheen, level, texture, graining, and color. Quick tutorial: But don't expect to get this right the first time. It takes some practice.
