Well, I'm done with the turning part. This thing didn't come out anywhere near what I thought it would. Anyway, using the hollowing tools on the inside was, to me, a frightening experience; it's obvious I'll need a lot more practice with them. Having the tool rest so far from the cutting edge is tough. Now I see how those expensive hollowing systems help with that effort. So the inside of this is a mess (rough, uneven) I got the wall thickness to 5/8" at the flat spot in the side, and that was as good as I could do. That makes the wall about 7/8" around the rounded parts of the side. I might try to finish this just because I've never done anything with bark on it before...so it's part of the learning experience. It's shame I kinda made a mess of this thing, because the coloring and rain of the wood is very nice to my eyes. BTW, getting the tenon off was also a challenge. I couldn't figure out a good way to secure the open end; I wound up running a bull nose from the tailstock into the opening while the tenon was on a drive spur. That allowed me to remove maybe 50-60% of it. For the rest of it I used the combo belt/disc sander and just held the bottom flat to the platen.

Good effort for a first. I will suggest that in future NE bowls thinner sides might help hold down the cracking. As you learn to turn thinner and use air to blow water out the side of the bow it can almost be dry when done. By note on my first I had end cracks just like you do.

3 hours ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

Well, I'm done with the turning part. This thing didn't come out anywhere near what I thought it would. Anyway, using the hollowing tools on the inside was, to me, a frightening experience; it's obvious I'll need a lot more practice with them. Having the tool rest so far from the cutting edge is tough. Now I see how those expensive hollowing systems help with that effort. So the inside of this is a mess (rough, uneven) I got the wall thickness to 5/8" at the flat spot in the side, and that was as good as I could do. That makes the wall about 7/8" around the rounded parts of the side. I might try to finish this just because I've never done anything with bark on it before...so it's part of the learning experience. It's shame I kinda made a mess of this thing, because the coloring and rain of the wood is very nice to my eyes. BTW, getting the tenon off was also a challenge. I couldn't figure out a good way to secure the open end; I wound up running a bull nose from the tailstock into the opening while the tenon was on a drive spur. That allowed me to remove maybe 50-60% of it. For the rest of it I used the combo belt/disc sander and just held the bottom flat to the platen.

 

There's a lot to be proud of there, Fred! All the bark stayed on, nice looking grain patterns from the crotch orientation, it has a non-typical shape and no trips to the emergency room! As @Gerald pointed out, thinner sides will speed drying and reduce cracking.

 

Your comment on the hollowing tool overhanging the tool rest can be addressed by using a smaller tool rest that can be angled into the opening. This will support the hollowing tool a little better. This isn't a small tool rest but illustrates the angled position-

 

 

When you are hollowing out a bowl, box, etc. start at the rim/opening and work there to get your wall thickness to the dimension you want it to be. Once that dimension is obtained, then work your way down the inside keeping the wall thickness constant. Try to avoid going back up to the top/rim and making changes- it can cause vibrations.

 

As you get more practice, the walls will get thinner. Using CA glue can help keep the really tiny sliver of bark in place.

 

You mentioned the pucker factor when turning air. Experiment with the position of your lighting and the color of your background. Moving the lathe light to a different position can help illuminate the turning better and where the "air" is located. Also a lighter/darker background behind the turning can improve what you see. 

 

Removing the tenon/mortice can be a real pain and your solution is perfectly OK. Another option, in some situations, could be a jam chuck. Not sure it would have worked in your situation.

 

 

I've been looking for one of those crossbar type rests Lew, it's next up on my shopping list. I did try using those hollowing tools from both sides of the lathe, neither seemed to help. I have a sliding headstock and I didn't try siding it to the far end to work on the turning but now I wish i had. Access from the end might have helped. But one thing you said I didn't do, that was start at the rim and work your way in...I'll need to do that on whatever my next attempt is.

 

 

BTW, Gerald mentioned NE bowls...what the heck is that?

 Well done Fred looks like a good size snack bowl.

4 hours ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

BTW, Gerald mentioned NE bowls...what the heck is that?

Natural Edge. Sometimes called "Live Edge"