I have a suggestion . Add some Kaizen foam and cut out for jaw sets. Like this but do not have pic of the chuck drawer.

 

 

26 minutes ago, Gerald said:

I have a suggestion . Add some Kaizen foam and cut out for jaw sets. Like this but do not have pic of the chuck drawer.

 

 

Now, why can't I remember to close the drawers before starting to turn. Really like that foam idea.

11 minutes ago, lew said:

Now, why can't I remember to close the drawers before starting to turn. Really like that foam idea.

Don't have everything in it but do have two drawers of accessories like the one above and chucks, two drawers of gouges, two drawers of wood planes, chisels, and another of flat ww measuring tools. Out of two 2 inch thick sheets only have less than half of one left now.

 

One thing is if you decide to move or sell a tool just cut out a square and fit another piece in its place.

Edited March 18, 20215 yr by Gerald

1 hour ago, Gerald said:

I have a suggestion . Add some Kaizen foam and cut out for jaw sets. Like this but do not have pic of the chuck drawer.

 

 

I'm not exactly sure of how the spacing/layout would be for the jaws sets. I did entertain the idea of using dowel rods to keep the sets together.

One more idea. If the box is deep enough make it two layer. Bottom layer with a stop for second layer ply to sit on .Make an extended handle on the upper layer to lift it out.

6 minutes ago, Gerald said:

One more idea. If the box is deep enough make it two layer. Bottom layer with a stop for second layer ply to sit on .Make an extended handle on the upper layer to lift it out.

 

Or a sliding shelf.

 

On 3/15/2021 at 10:39 PM, FrederickH said:

Thanks for the advice. How would you tape off the many curved sections on this pattern?

 

A couple of suggestions on this Frederick.  For freehand, you could try some pinstriping tape from an auto body supply.  It is narrow and flexible to get the curve to the shape you want, and then a layer of painters tape with paper to cover the space in between.  A second suggestion would be to get someone with a vinyl cutter, like a cricket, to cut the pattern which becomes a stencil.

Thanks to all who have suggested the drawer arraignment. I'm concluding that, perhaps, a pair of lift-out drawers for this box. The jaw sets could be laid out, on sets of dowels, for display and selection. I'll draw a rectangular template for the bottom of the box and then lay out the jaw sets to check for fit. Stay tuned.

2 hours ago, FrederickH said:

Thanks to all who have suggested the drawer arraignment. I'm concluding that, perhaps, a pair of lift-out drawers for this box. The jaw sets could be laid out, on sets of dowels, for display and selection. I'll draw a rectangular template for the bottom of the box and then lay out the jaw sets to check for fit. Stay tuned.

Here's the plan. I've got the jaw sets and chuck laid out on two tray drawings. These will fit into the interior of the box. The first photo shows the jaws sets that I picked up and the second photo shows the layout of everything, given the interior dimensions. 3/16" dowel rods should act as the 4 "posts" for each set. The chuck itself will fit into a drilled hole and won't be in the box for storage but for future storage. I've realized that these two trays will be the equivalent of making another, smaller box( 8 sides and 2 bottoms), to fit within the bigger one.

On 3/19/2021 at 11:49 AM, FrederickH said:

 

 

The first photo shows the layout of the drawer bottoms, with the dowel pins in place, the second is showing the jaw sets in place, and the last photo shows the two inner boxes, ready to be placed into the larger storage box. All done! Thanks for all of the suggestions everyone!!!

Had wondered how you would lift out the top layer, but now I see and that is superb. One suggestion is instead of dowels another layer of ply with circles cut out in the diameter of the jaws. Another thing you can do is to turn a flat bottom bowl for each set of jaws. I think placing them on those dowel will get old.

 

 ... Looks like I've got a few boxes to build. I've got to figure out a system though. I've got attachments that go with more than one machine. I like the dowel pegs, reminds me of the early Delta shaper cutter boxes.

Edited March 22, 20215 yr by Larry Buskirk

That didn't take long Frederick.  Looks like a great solution.

 ... Anyone know of a reamer (or?) that will make a MT2 hole in a block of wood? 

9 hours ago, Gerald said:

Had wondered how you would lift out the top layer, but now I see and that is superb. One suggestion is instead of dowels another layer of ply with circles cut out in the diameter of the jaws. Another thing you can do is to turn a flat bottom bowl for each set of jaws. I think placing them on those dowel will get old.

 

There would still be the process of placing the separate jaw parts into the cutout. I did think about doing a cutout for the sets but realized that there wouldn't be much room between the cuts. And, there's the added enjoyment of dropping that last jaw into a well-fitted space among the other 3 jaws. The box/trays are constructed of solid pine that was shell shellacked/painted...... no plywood used.

1 hour ago, Larry Buskirk said:

 ... Anyone know of a reamer (or?) that will make a MT2 hole in a block of wood? 

Why not turn a MT-2 taper, from a hardwood, and then wrapping sandpaper around it for the final-sanding fit? You could then use that with your wood lathe for the final sanding/fitting.

There are plenty of reamers out there.  Drill to the small diameter and finish up with the reamer.

 

2 hours ago, FrederickH said:

Why not turn a MT-2 taper, from a hardwood, and then wrapping sandpaper around it for the final-sanding fit? You could then use that with your wood lathe for the final sanding/fitting.

Now that's a possibility! 

22 minutes ago, HandyDan said:

There are plenty of reamers out there.  Drill to the small diameter and finish up with the reamer.

 

 

...I must have put the wrong search term in when I went looking, all that showed up was straight reams. Thanks!

 

 ... With all of the attachments I've accumulated that can be shared between 3, or 4 different machines I might be better off to build everything into a small roll around cart. By the time I get the MT2, 1/2" straight shank, and other attachments along with drill press spindles etc. all in one place there's no way I'm going to try lifting that box or whatever.

 

 Just not into stripping what's left of my gears! 

2 hours ago, FrederickH said:

Why not turn a MT-2 taper, from a hardwood, and then wrapping sandpaper around it for the final-sanding fit? You could then use that with your wood lathe for the final sanding/fitting.

 

Just put sand paper on the taper you are drilling the hole for.

4 minutes ago, HandyDan said:

 

Just put sand paper on the taper you are drilling the hole for.

 

...  ... Now why didn't I think of that?