Okay folks  got some issues here.  The 2 inch by 5 inch piece that I got from Rockler the other day.  I sanded off the wax seal off the wood yesterday.  Today I started turning it.  Nothing has cracked so far.  Handled really well on the spin up.  I went with the face plate method on this one.  How ever this is my issue.  I've got a good shape that I actually really like for this small bowl.  Its simplistic which is what i like.  Not too complex either.  How ever if I cut a mortise or tennon in the bottom, that would not leave me with very much wiggle room sort to say on hollowing this thing out.  I don't want this to be a wasted project, I would like to actually accomplish this one.  I must say the walnut turned EXTREMELY nicely.  The easy wood chisels made quick work of the square block and turned it into shape with the rougher alone.  How ever what I am looking for is input and or suggestions on how I should complete this so I am able to hollow this out and call it a bowl. Not sure where to go on this one.

Mortice or tenon is sorta like pins or tails first. It's often a matter of preference. I know that @Gerald usually prefers tenons. I often go with mortices. You'll learn to read the wood, with experience, to see which one would provide the best hold.

 

Also, either one can be incorporated into the way you finish off the bottom of the bowl.

 

A couple of good article on helping you see the difference. 

https://turnawoodbowl.com/wood-bowl-mortise-or-tenon-which-is-best/   check out the links at the end of this article for more information

 

https://turnawoodbowl.com/bowl-tenon-secure-wood-bowl-foot/

 

Whichever route you decide, constantly check the hollowed depth to avoid ending up with a funnel instead of a bowl- don't ask how I know about this.

 

 

Okay if I go that route I may have to change up the shape of the bowl.  I'll head out to the shed and see have a look.  I've only got so much material to work with so if I mess it up lol.  It would be a waste.  I did have a look at both of those links.

Edited July 5, 20205 yr by AndrewB

I don't think you really need to change the bowl shape that much. More so if you use the tenon method but still not too much. Check your chuck jaws to see how long of a tenon you'll need- maybe only 1/4" to 3/8" long (same for the mortise depth- if you choose that method). 

Okay so I went with the tennon.  I wound up cutting a smaller tennon.  Did some turning on it.  No bowl flying out seems to be working okay.  So I'll have to figure out how to smooth that out once I'm finished with the hollowing.  The lathe extension having nothing to do with the bowl well yes and no, but having added that extension on I was able to get the tail stock up and out of the way so I was able to get into access the piece a lot easier.  I'm sure this one will turn out okay at least I hope so.  Yep I still have to put paste wax on the extension.

Edited July 5, 20205 yr by AndrewB

That looks pretty nice. I think I'd try and refine the outside shape a little before finishing the hollowing. Just smooth it up a little- light touch keeping the tool rest fairly close to the work piece. Then go back and finish the hollowing. 

Already beat you to it @lew I've just gotta get some food safe varnish for it.  So I'll have to go to home depot tomorrow morning.  Its not quite finished.  How ever This bowl blank I did receive from Rockler as I said no cracks no issues, so I guess I got lucky with this one.  I'm happy with this one though.  It turned out alright.  You were right the small piece did turn into a nice little project.  I was kind of unsure about it because of the amount of material but it worked out. You guys were right.  SO SO SO SO much easier carving on a solid chunk of wood.  I think I'm going to stick to that instead of trying to laminate.

Edited July 5, 20205 yr by AndrewB

Not bad at all! All that practice on the laminated pieces really helped you get the techniques down. 

I really like turning small objects. Less waste and a lot of fun as they get done faster.

As you get more experience, you’ll be able to work out those scratches with the tools. That will make sanding more efficient. 

Looking forward to seeing it with the finish on 

The next step I have to figure out is what to do about the tennon I cut on the bottom of it for the chuck to clamp down to.  Its going to take a bunch of sanding with the disc sander to get that rounded out to the way I want it.

These are very good educational threads.  Keep it up guys.  

Couple of ways to get that done 

 

https://www.rockler.com/nova-cole-jaw-set?country=US&sid=V91040&promo=shopping&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PL&tid=pla&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4sCth9626gIVJfC1Ch0jhg_qEAQYASABEgKUP_D_BwE

 

 

Cole jaws are probably one of the most common add-ons 

 

another possibility-

https://www.pennstateind.com/store/BARR4FJ3.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIubDVsd-26gIVibWzCh2EQARzEAQYBSABEgIwRfD_BwE

 

The Longworth chuck is really nice, too. 

 

Both these types of chucks allow for reversing the bowl. 

 

Another method is is to make a jam chuck. Lots of videos on YouTube on how to make them

Edited July 5, 20205 yr by lew

I'll have to look those up for Nova jaws and see what they have I'll see about ordering a set.  I've been hunting for a set of cole jaws for the Nova G3 chuck but haven't yet had much luck.   Just picked one up sadly wont be here until the 19th.  So for now it will be sanding the tennon off by hand with the disc sander or belt sander which ever comes first.

 

Edited July 5, 20205 yr by AndrewB

A bit more sanding but not having a big jaw chuck which is on order.  Minus a bit more sanding on the bottom and a good coat of varnish.  I think this bowl is COMPLETE.  The belt sander made quick work of the tennon.

I got here a little late. A mortise would have worked great and given a larger bowl just leave some meat outside the hole . You only need about 1/8 for the mortise. Here is a link to a Jimmy Clewes video. The platter may be a little advanced but watch the other techniques especially the mortise. At 9:14

 

 

Now to remove tenon slow down!!! You do not need to buy anything else. Just place a piece of rubber intertube or comparable on chuck , turn the bowl around and bring up tailstock to the center point of your tenon. Remove most

of the tenon with small cuts toward the headstock. DO NOT use any pull cuts.

 

Bottom of the first page will show you how.

https://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/tenonsandvar.html

hmmm I may have  to give that a go at some point.  I've got 4 more blanks on order but these are a bit bigger, so I'll have no issues with cutting a  tennon or mortise in the bowl.  This one was just a bit on  the small side so it was a bit trickier I'll give that video a go over.

By using a sander on your bottom you remove the opportunity to embellish the bottom of your piece. There are many things you can do to both improve the foot of your bowl as well as decorate it. What do you think the first thing someone does when they pick up your bowl? ...............They look at the bottom.

 

Very true but at this point I don't think I've made anything yet that's worthy of being sold or someone would buy it.  More practice is needed first.

if you are worried about the amount of material, do a rough drawing of your bowl (or vase or whatever) from a side view and make some measurements -

if you want a foot, how much 1/2"?  more

Tenon to hold - how deep (and do you NEED to remove it or simply smooth to make a foot?)

how deep do you want the bowl to be (essentially, how much material do you want to leave for sides and base)?

 

a few basis measurements (and your own home-built "depth stick") and it will become easier to see your piece.

 

good work on that block there.    you saw the bowl and brought it out. 

A great looking little bowl Andrew.  Regarding Gerald's comments, signing off on the bottom (or whatever you might choose to do) also takes some practice