I had Lowes cut a new panel....after I took the cutter back...and got my $4.04 back.  After lunch, I can do a glue up of the right hand door..

 

Film at 2300 hrs....

Somebody got pissed off at Home Depot. The treatment of prisoners is better than how they are currently so I am not surprised. They drained all the engine oil and filled up oil pans with foam. Then spray painted HD sucks all over the trucks.  Judging by the mess I saw they have 3 delivery trucks out of commission.  Hate to be the guy that explains that one.  

Edited April 16, 20206 yr by Woodbutcherbynight

Ok...back to work...Left hand door has had it's rebate cleaned up...as well as the matching one on the right hand door..

Auburn Tool Co. of Auburn NY, No. 181 skewed rebate plane...and, if you ain't careful, it will peel a strip off your finger, as well...and you won't feel a thing..

Raised the doors up a bit, to get clearance along the bottom edge...finish, dirt, wood swelling up.things like that

..handle installed, too

"It don't mean a thing, if it ain't got that swing.."   Sch....wing.

 

Ok...mortises for door #2...

Were a little different than the others...tenon comes all the way out the end.   Had to trim about a 1/4" or so off the end of the plexiglass panel...then a dry fit..

Then add the glue, plexiglass, clamps and cauls...

Cauls to keep things flat at the corners...had to double up at one spot...

Checked things for square, too..

Close enough....was having issues with the clamps on that thinner edge...so...

Used  "helper" to get things wide enough for the clamp to stay put.  Also puts pressure straight down into the glue joint...

Tools in use today, besides that finger slicer...not a bad morning?

letting the door sit a bit, will get it out of the clamps tomorrow, I think....may go out and pick up a can of stain...getting a bit low..

Stay tuned..

 

Not being critical of your build but why lock in the plexiglass? If it breaks you get to start over.  Or as I have done route out the recess on the back and add strips to hold plexiglass in.

 

Enlighten us oh great one.

No intention of having them break.   I'm not much of a glazier, either......have used moldings to hold these in place...looked good, but there was always a nail or two that cracked the panel....then the cracks spread....usually the last two nails.  

 

IF need be,  I could set up the Stanley 45 with the slitting cutter, and cut out around a broken panel.....then just nail the strips back in place. 

 

Now...how about a "grill" across the panels, made of wood?   Plain or fancy? 

3 minutes ago, steven newman said:

No intention of having them break.   I'm not much of a glazier, either......have used moldings to hold these in place...looked good, but there was always a nail or two that cracked the panel....then the cracks spread....usually the last two nails.  

 

IF need be,  I could set up the Stanley 45 with the slitting cutter, and cut out around a broken panel.....then just nail the strips back in place. 

 

Now...how about a "grill" across the panels, made of wood?   Plain or fancy? 

I am thinking go extra classy and get a copper colored mesh.

14 hours ago, Woodbutcherbynight said:

If it breaks you get to start over. 

 

Enlighten us oh great one.

Another reason to opt for Lexan.

1 hour ago, Gene Howe said:

Another reason to opt for Lexan.

I will have to try Lexan on some project...

19 minutes ago, Cal said:

I will have to try Lexan on some project...

Much better to work with than plexiglass.  Of course it cost more as well. I have 3 sheets 30x40 of plexiglass that I picked up from a van I cleaned out. Free is always a good price.

Methinks tis time to wrap this up....  Fought all afternoon, getting two doors to fit just right....went out and picked up a small can of stain to add to the brew, and a stick of trim...

So..here we go....

Handles and a latch on the outside...NOT a dirty window, that's me in the reflection...and a bit of the bench's tool well...un-do the latch, swing the left door open..

Molding keeps the door from swinging too far...and..

When you open the right hand door, there is a magnetic catch...have to prop the door open,,,wants to swing almost closed...

Witch's Brew has been wiped down...waiting on it to dry....I think it is done...

 

Not sure what the next Project will be...yet...stay tuned

 

Now that is a work if art!!!

 

On 4/11/2020 at 9:34 PM, steven newman said:

and the famous Lew's Mallet

Sorry, some how I missed this entire project until I saw the images in the gallery

 

That is an awesome display/storage cabinet, Steve. A well deserved resting place for those fine planes!

Just flat bada$$,.........not to mention useful....but it looks awesome simply sitting there holding all of them planes 

On 4/8/2020 at 8:31 PM, steven newman said:

2 planks taken to the shop,today...

Opened the doors to the Tool Cabinet, as I will be working out of there...for a change..

Even hung a couple more items in there...anyway..needed to cut each plank into a 30" and a 37-1/2" plank...

Full length D-8 was having issues with binding, 20" D8 didn't.  getting better at this handsaw stuff...didn't even hit the steel rods in the vise..

Set out a few tools for use...marked out the tails for one corner joint ( tails first, this time only, NOT a fan)

then the bandsaw made a bunch of cuts..

Makes it easier to get the waste out.  Chisels to chop out...

That chisel had been ground into a triangle shape, to get into tight corners...

Tails done.   Use these to lay out the pins...

knife wall at the "baseline" was done with the marking gauge..more handsaw stuff...

I did try the "broomhandled saw"   Way too many teeth for a rip cut.   I only need 8 full length strokes with the No.4....was trying to leave the lines..on the theory I could always trim back to the lines...

So..chop 1/2 way down, leave a chunk on the edge for support...flip over..

Pins done...dry fit?   First 2 tries...meh, had to trim a couple spots...finally..

Not the best...at least I can hide this mess...

Next three corners will be Pins first.  Uncle Charles was after the back of my legs...decided to close the doors on the Cabinet, sweep the floor, and call it a day.

Made a bunch of sawdust, today.   Will try again tomorrow..might get something done?

Stay tuned

 

Steve,...this No. 4  saw that you used....... From my limited knowledge it is traditional for hand cut dovetails,....lets say for anything along this project and joint size would this be your got to saw for the dovetails,......also did you use this saw for the dovetails on the drawers too?

 

I suppose what I'm trying to spit out is from a purchase standpoint would this style/size of saw be a great place to start if you were going to buy a saw to cut dovetails of this style on similar size projects,.....? Or was it just what you happened to have around and made it work?   

 

You can also include any thoughts on the Japanese Z saw if you like,....Thanks, -Aaron 

Edited April 19, 20206 yr by aaronc

Was an old backsaw I picked up.  14" long, 9ppi filed rip......it is really a lousy crosscut saw.   

 

I have a lot of trouble holding those "broom handled" Dovetail Saws....Uncle Arthur (itis)  doesn't like them.  had not had any Japanese style saws in the shop.

 

 

I use both the No. 4 saw for all the dovetails I do....except,,,when I got to saw the tails.   I use the bandsaw, because I can see the lines better, and see where I am cutting better.  Pins I can saw with the No. 4 very nicely....just follow the lines.  

have been known to either use the No. 4 or/and the bandsaw, when cutting finger/box joints. 

 

There are plenty of the No. 4 saw around....they were also made for Mitre Boxes.    As long as the saw is sharp, and comfortable in the hand to use...

 

Those cheap 12-14" mitre box saws being sold today...are more for cross cuts, and are not the best for the Rip cuts used in dovetails.  

 

If you find a Z saw you like, buy it, and try it out.    Most of the "Gent's saws" out there need to be filed rip....those 15-24ppi ones are for cross grain work.