20 minutes ago, Gerald said:

Ok I have all of the above squares mentioned but use them very little. My go to is a Starrett combination with either the traditional head or a protractor head in 4, 6 and 12 inch. Yes I know they can be trued but would have to look that up to do it. Now most of the work I do is 6 inch or less.

 

Now tell me am I wrong in my useage?

 

If it works it don't matter how you got there.

Oops, sorry Gerald. Don't know how that happened. That, apparently DIDN'T work.

29 minutes ago, Gerald said:

If it works it don't matter how you got there.

Most certainly!

1 hour ago, Gerald said:

My go to is a Starrett combination with either the traditional head or a protractor head in 4, 6 and 12 inch.

I have same set, my Father gave them to me.  Use them when I am building for NASA and such. 

 

Most of the time I use a set I have by Irwin, 4, 6, and 12 inch.  Not the best, but they work and seem to be square.  

 

Now since I have seen @steven newmanhas 30 something maybe I should invest in a couple more.  If 2 are okay a dozen or so should be great!

Steven Newman--that is a fine collection of squares.

 

I have a speed square that is molded plastic.  I compared it to the square I have had for 50 years when I used to do drafting and it appears to be spot on.  But like any project, use the same square or tape measure as you'll have better measurements.  I have 2 Craftsman tape measures one that is 45 years old with the metal case and another about 20 years old.  Over the course of 20 feet, their max., they are 1/4" different.  Nothing to complain about, but sufficient to use only one of them in the course of a project.  The trick is consistency.  

2 minutes ago, FlGatorwood said:

I have a speed square that is molded plastic.

an orange HF one??  

Lowe's seasonal special  But it appears to be very accurate.  I am very surprised, but happy.  Like John said, it is a quick reference.

4 minutes ago, Woodbutcherbynight said:

an orange HF one??  

Mine's yellow. Must be the improved model. At any rate, it's accurate. 

My orange one came from Menard's.....I checked it with a couple framing squares they had.  

 

IF I need a 19 or 20 degree cut...it has those markings, among a lot of others....mark the line, set the mitre box to the line...

Which came in handy. All bevels here were 19 degrees....

For the larger projects the 3-4-5 method is a good way to check square and can be increased to 6-8-10 when the project gets bigger.

 

 

Have done 60' x 80'x 100' before....laying out retaining walls for a factory's truck docks.  

I have 2 drafting squares I used to use as my standard for saw alignment.

Decided to "test" out one of the combo squares.....a 12"  Defiance by Stanley No. 122

 

same as before.  Have a jointed edge on a board,  make two lines....mark one, flip the square over, and mark a second line beside the first...

IF the "gap" is the same all the way across....should be square....can also double check..

needed an extra hand....one end is up, the other laying on the board...but..no gap. 

 

Use these type of squares more for..striking a line along an edge....to mark where a groove would go.   Can be used to check a depth setting, too. 

Note:  on the ends of these type of squares, you will usually find a notch.....that is where a pencil would go, to mark a line....remember to either use the notch, or not....but not both, as the line without the notch will be different from the one made with the notch...

 

Edited October 7, 20196 yr by steven newman

• Steve, I know about that notch but, don't ask me how I know! 

Yeah I have a few horror stories along those lines.