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Posted

Well I am finishing molding in a bathroom.  So humidity will be a challenge.

That is why I am chosing water based poly on top of oil based stain/dye.

 

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Posted

I don't like the Danish oil as a finish.  After I apply it the piece looks like it is unfinished to me strictly for it's lack of.  Poly gives the best shine but I prefer lacquer and shellac which seem to have more of a satin look.  The lacquer smells the house up for hours if used indoors so I only use it if I can be outside to apply it.  

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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Moved topic out of Finishing Tips to Finishing

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  • 1 year later...
Posted
Posted

He didn't much care for foam brushes or lacquer either, as I recall. I like your statement in the opening post about some folks call everything "poly". That's so true, and it often gets confusing when someone asks a question about a finish referring to it as poly, when it's something completely unrelated. Back to the 3 finishes. I like all 3, but prefer making my own danish oil (I think Watco may be just wiping varnish).

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Posted
34 minutes ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

He didn't much care for foam brushes or lacquer either, as I recall. I like your statement in the opening post about some folks call everything "poly". That's so true, and it often gets confusing when someone asks a question about a finish referring to it as poly, when it's something completely unrelated. Back to the 3 finishes. I like all 3, but prefer making my own danish oil (I think Watco may be just wiping varnish).

I used a roller for putting on lacquer once. 

Notice  I said once.:JawDrop:

Posted
44 minutes ago, Woodbutcherbynight said:

I used a roller for putting on lacquer once. 

Notice  I said once.:JawDrop:

Yep, I can believe that (the "once" part).

Posted
Just now, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

Yep, I can believe that (the "once" part).

Might have been a hold my beer moment.

Posted

The last time I purchased and used Shellac, it turned hard in about 6 months.  Yes, the lid was tightly sealed, but it firmed up, so it went into the trash.  I don't use finish that often.  I like BLO, lacquer and poly.  

 

When I worked on decals and aircraft instruments for the Navy rework facility, we used lacquer paints.  Most paints we used were dull, we had a flat clear and a high gloss clear.  I never liked the flat, so I use glossy on things that I want to be glossy.  If it is food safe, I use plain old mineral oil.  No finish.  

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Posted
On 4/16/2020 at 1:43 PM, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

 (I think Watco may be just wiping varnish).

Watco has gone thru a number of owners.   Watco-Dennis gave up on it when some idiot burned down his house because he threw wet rags in a trash can.

 

But last time I check the SDS (previously known as MSDS), it was roughly

- 6/9 mineral spirits

- 2/9 boiled linseed oil

- 1/9 varnish

trace amounts of coloring, depending upon shade.

 

I was always under the impression that the walnut shades used Gilsonite (i.e., tar) for the coloring.

 

When I first stared woodworking (40+ years ago), I used Watco.  Like most people, I found something that I could successfully use, then used that for nearly everything.   I fortified the ratio by adding some oil-based varnish.

Posted

That would make it a danish oil. I would like to test some, but I've never used it. Over the years Flexner has called it both a wiping varnish, and a danish oil...making me think it has changed from time to time.

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Posted

What is the dry / cure time on Watch or Danish oil?

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Posted

Flexner says he coined the term oil-varnish blend.  And what Watco is.

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Posted
7 hours ago, Woodbutcherbynight said:

What is the dry / cure time on Watch or Danish oil?

Depends on which coat you are talking about. The more coats the ,longer it takes. Two coats cure well enought to buff in a week depending on the weather.

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