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Showing results for tags 'danish oil'.
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I am experimenting with different finishes on the same piece of turning, and now in furniture. Example - the outside of a bowl may have one sheen, the inside another, using the same product, but rubbed out differently. I have tried putting a paper doily on a piece to spray a final coat of a satin poly pattern over a piece with high gloss or semigloss. A subtle difference. So far, my doily trick is not working well, but I will experiment more. Have you done pieces with different finishes on the same piece, either for durability or a slight aesthetic contrast? Moving to a walnut kitchen table, I have put danish oil on everything, then a lot of coats of poly on both sides of the top. The legs have only the danish oil on them. The subtle contrast is interesting to me. Only I, or the lady in the house, can determine if we like the look. My question is whether danish oil only is suitable for the legs of this table. It would be easy to touch up later, but will that hold up at all?
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Bob's famous half-right rule. Half of what you hear about finishing is true. You just don't know which half.
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Often people beginning struggle with finishing. They find one that usually works, then use that one on everything, whether it's the best fit or not. Sort of like using the same tool for every operation. In fact some non-woodworkers tend to think of every finish as "polyurethane" (I've had customers say this to many times about their factory furniture.) https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/finishing/3finishes
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I made this in my tiny little shop (man, I’d really LOVE to have a window). Two are #4 hard maple shaker boxes with African mahogany tops. Also made two #3 shaker boxes from walnut with butternut tops. Hit them with some natural danish oil and after they dry for about 3 days or so, I’ll shoot them with about 4 coats of a satin poly. The hardest part for me is milling the stock to 1/16th of an inch....I seen to be able to get a better result on my table saw instead of the bandsaw....anyhow, I hope all youse guys are staying safe and healthy! I can’t wait until this comes to an end.
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It appears that the confusion over oil finishes is not just limited to the US. Some good information in the article and the comments. I was SHOCKED at the price of this huckster's oil. I also got a laugh that it could be up to 100% naphtha (in which case you'd be buying paint thinner). https://paulsellers.com/2019/06/finishing-with-danish-oil/?pk_campaign=feed&pk_kwd=finishing-with-danish-oil https://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/finishing/oil-finishes-their-history-and-use/
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From the album: coffee table
Live edge American cherry coffee table. Top measures 50" long and 24" wide and stands 21" tall. Danish oil and 2 coats of wipe on poly to top surface for added protection. Legs are made from the cutoffs from canting some of the logs. I try to use as much of the tree as I can for conservation and to add some interest in my work. The legs are the corner blocks for the skirt and can not be removed and , I may add a lower shelf after I talk to the person it is being made for. -
TGIF : “Oil” finishes July 11, 2017 This week we explore “Oil Finishes,” that I put in quotes because it is probably one of the most mis-labeled* and myth-filled types of finishes. What is an oil finish? There are two true oil finishes in common use, linseed (oil extracted from the seeds of the flax plant) and tung oil (oil extracted from a nut from China). Raw linseed oil, while available, is seldom useful because it takes weeks to cure. Boiled linseed oil, sometimes called BLO (that is not boiled*), sometimes called BLO, but contains metallic driers that help it cure faster, in days. Tung oil has a mystique about it (probably due to promotional literature*). It is more difficult to use, takes more days to dry between coats (and if you don’t, you have to strip and start over), needs sanding between coats, and requires five to seven coats. In my opinion, there’s little reason to use it. “Oil Finishes” cure just like varnish – they absorb oxygen and cross link. There are also a handful of "polymerized oils" -- those heated in an oxygen free environment. This starts the polymerization and these can resemble varnishes. The other “Oil Finishes” Unless it’s really labeled 100% tung oil or boiled linseed oil, you are getting one of the oil look-alikes* One type is simply the wiping (thinned) varnish discussed in the last topic. The other type is an oil-varnish blend. Oil and (oil-based) varnishes are quite miscible and manufacturers, or you, can combine them in any proportion, and thin then with mineral spirits to any amount. You will find these labeled things like Tung Oil Finish*, Danish Oil*, Teak Oil*, <namebrand>-Oil*, or just about anything. Waterlox is a fine product, but if you read through the dozens of web pages, they will usually refer to it to as “tung oil finish.” In one obscure spot, it does confess, “what we make is a varnish.”(1) You can buy an oil-varnish finish, and never be quite sure what you’re getting. Or you can mix your own. The time-honored “secret recipe” is equal parts varnish, BLO, and mineral spirts. You can also buy an off-the-shelf product and change its proportions by adding varnish, BLO, or mineral spirits in any proportion. For example, you can fortify up a Watco Danish Oil by adding some varnish. The higher proportion of varnish, the more you will get a bit of a film finish. (this is what I did when I was in my novice, confused, deer-in-the-headlights, starting out phase of finishing) So, how do you tell what you have? Linseed and (100%) tung oil are generally labeled correctly. It if contains “resins” or thinners like mineral spirits, aliphatic hydrocarbons*, etc., it’s probably one of the imposters. A good way to tell is to put a puddle on some smooth surface like a piece of glass. You will see one of three results: The finish remains soft and lots of wrinkles - it’s an oil The finish is smooth and hard – it’s a wiping varnish The finish is smooth in the middle and wrinkled at the edges – it’s an oil-varnish blend and the more wrinkles the higher proportion of oil. Last I checked (and it’s undergone many owners, mergers and acquisitions along the years), Watco Danish Oil was approximately. (from the MSDS) 6/9 (=2/3) mineral spirits or other evaporating thinners providing nothing to the final finish 2/9 BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil) 1/9 Varnish (trace amounts of coloring if not in the natural color) So it’s not very heavy in the varnish component and heavy in the thinners. Below are some samples. Note that the BLO is still soft after 7 years of being on this glass. How to apply Applying an oil or oil-varnish finish is dead easy. Get it on with rag or brush, let set up for a few minutes and wipe off the excess. The more varnish in the oil-varnish blend, the faster it will tack up and the sooner you need to wipe. Don’t leave much on the surface – this is not designed to be a film-forming finish, and if you leave too much, you’ll just end up with a soft and wrinkly finish like shown in the slide above (2). On porous woods, like oak, you may experience “bleed back” where as the finish cures it bubbles back out of the pores. The cure for this is to wipe for every few hours after the initial wipe. And apply a bit less the next coat. Provide the finish in an area with fresh air and room temperature. Between coats, you can sand with a fine (600 grit) wet or dry sandpaper to smooth the surface, then apply the next coat as the first. Usually, 3-4 coats are plenty. These are good finishes if you are doing a quick project with a child. It is very important that you take the rags you use outside and spread out to dry. The oil in oil finishes will heat as they cure, and the more heat the faster they cure, creating a chain reaction of more and more heat to the point where they can spontaneously combust, starting a fire. The result The result should be a smooth, in the wood finish. While it looks nice, it has minimal protection against water and water vapor presentation (3). It will also not be very protective against dirt and abrasion. So it would be fine for a product that does not need a lot of protection – bookshelves, artwork, boxes, etc. Not so good for dining tables with kids, handrails, chair arms. Some woods will darken/amber with an oil finish. Here is a “Keeping box” I made a few years ago. Two coats of BLO, four afternoons on the back patio and I had 10 years of patina in a week. Top coated with a couple of coats of blond shellac for sheen and protection. After a few years, an oil finish may start to look dull. Easy enough to fix – clean, lightly sand if you wish, and apply another coat. This can also conceal some superficial scratches. More reading (4-7) References and notes (1) https://waterlox.com/project-help/guide?id=55d7f899-9e95-430b-9788-6ee59ed27e30&q= (2) Tales from the repair guy: A few years ago, I got a call to refinish some teak furniture that the owner had religiously “teak oiled” annually. The result was a soft, sticky mess, full of link, hair and fingerprints. Not too surprising, she built up a thick coat of soft oil (probably linseed). I stripped and refinished it. When I returned it, she asked how often she needed to re-apply the teak oil. I told her, “Never again.” (3) USFPL Wood Handbook, Chapter 16: Finishing of Wood, https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/products/publications/several_pubs.php?grouping_id=100 (4) http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/finishing/oil-finishes-their-history-and-use (5) http://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/finishes/choosing-best-wood-finish (6) http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/flexner-on-finishing-blog/comparing-linseed-oil-and-tung-oil (7) http://www.popularwoodworking.com/articleindex/teak-oil-oil-doesnt-exist
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TGIF : “Oil” finishes July 11, 2017 This week we explore “Oil Finishes,” that I put in quotes because it is probably one of the most mis-labeled* and myth-filled types of finishes. What is an oil finish? There are two true oil finishes in common use, linseed (oil extracted from the seeds of the flax plant) and tung oil (oil extracted from a nut from China). Raw linseed oil, while available, is seldom useful because it takes weeks to cure. Boiled linseed oil, sometimes called BLO (that is not boiled*), sometimes called BLO, but contains metallic driers that help it cure faster, in days. Tung oil has a mystique about it (probably due to promotional literature*). It is more difficult to use, takes more days to dry between coats (and if you don’t, you have to strip and start over), needs sanding between coats, and requires five to seven coats. In my opinion, there’s little reason to use it. “Oil Finishes” cure just like varnish – they absorb oxygen and cross link. There are also a handful of "polymerized oils" -- those heated in an oxygen free environment. This starts the polymerization and these can resemble varnishes. The other “Oil Finishes” Unless it’s really labeled 100% tung oil or boiled linseed oil, you are getting one of the oil look-alikes* One type is simply the wiping (thinned) varnish discussed in the last topic. The other type is an oil-varnish blend. Oil and (oil-based) varnishes are quite miscible and manufacturers, or you, can combine them in any proportion, and thin then with mineral spirits to any amount. You will find these labeled things like Tung Oil Finish*, Danish Oil*, Teak Oil*, <namebrand>-Oil*, or just about anything. Waterlox is a fine product, but if you read through the dozens of web pages, they will usually refer to it to as “tung oil finish.” In one obscure spot, it does confess, “what we make is a varnish.”(1) You can buy an oil-varnish finish, and never be quite sure what you’re getting. Or you can mix your own. The time-honored “secret recipe” is equal parts varnish, BLO, and mineral spirts. You can also buy an off-the-shelf product and change its proportions by adding varnish, BLO, or mineral spirits in any proportion. For example, you can fortify up a Watco Danish Oil by adding some varnish. The higher proportion of varnish, the more you will get a bit of a film finish. (this is what I did when I was in my novice, confused, deer-in-the-headlights, starting out phase of finishing) So, how do you tell what you have? Linseed and (100%) tung oil are generally labeled correctly. It if contains “resins” or thinners like mineral spirits, aliphatic hydrocarbons*, etc., it’s probably one of the imposters. A good way to tell is to put a puddle on some smooth surface like a piece of glass. You will see one of three results: The finish remains soft and lots of wrinkles - it’s an oil The finish is smooth and hard – it’s a wiping varnish The finish is smooth in the middle and wrinkled at the edges – it’s an oil-varnish blend and the more wrinkles the higher proportion of oil. Last I checked (and it’s undergone many owners, mergers and acquisitions along the years), Watco Danish Oil was approximately. (from the MSDS) 6/9 (=2/3) mineral spirits or other evaporating thinners providing nothing to the final finish 2/9 BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil) 1/9 Varnish (trace amounts of coloring if not in the natural color) So it’s not very heavy in the varnish component and heavy in the thinners. Below are some samples. Note that the BLO is still soft after 7 years of being on this glass. How to apply Applying an oil or oil-varnish finish is dead easy. Get it on with rag or brush, let set up for a few minutes and wipe off the excess. The more varnish in the oil-varnish blend, the faster it will tack up and the sooner you need to wipe. Don’t leave much on the surface – this is not designed to be a film-forming finish, and if you leave too much, you’ll just end up with a soft and wrinkly finish like shown in the slide above (2). On porous woods, like oak, you may experience “bleed back” where as the finish cures it bubbles back out of the pores. The cure for this is to wipe for every few hours after the initial wipe. And apply a bit less the next coat. Provide the finish in an area with fresh air and room temperature. Between coats, you can sand with a fine (600 grit) wet or dry sandpaper to smooth the surface, then apply the next coat as the first. Usually, 3-4 coats are plenty. These are good finishes if you are doing a quick project with a child. It is very important that you take the rags you use outside and spread out to dry. The oil in oil finishes will heat as they cure, and the more heat the faster they cure, creating a chain reaction of more and more heat to the point where they can spontaneously combust, starting a fire. The result The result should be a smooth, in the wood finish. While it looks nice, it has minimal protection against water and water vapor presentation (3). It will also not be very protective against dirt and abrasion. So it would be fine for a product that does not need a lot of protection – bookshelves, artwork, boxes, etc. Not so good for dining tables with kids, handrails, chair arms. Some woods will darken/amber with an oil finish. Here is a “Keeping box” I made a few years ago. Two coats of BLO, four afternoons on the back patio and I had 10 years of patina in a week. Top coated with a couple of coats of blond shellac for sheen and protection. After a few years, an oil finish may start to look dull. Easy enough to fix – clean, lightly sand if you wish, and apply another coat. This can also conceal some superficial scratches. More reading (4-7) References and notes (1) https://waterlox.com/project-help/guide?id=55d7f899-9e95-430b-9788-6ee59ed27e30&q= (2) Tales from the repair guy: A few years ago, I got a call to refinish some teak furniture that the owner had religiously “teak oiled” annually. The result was a soft, sticky mess, full of link, hair and fingerprints. Not too surprising, she built up a thick coat of soft oil (probably linseed). I stripped and refinished it. When I returned it, she asked how often she needed to re-apply the teak oil. I told her, “Never again.” (3) USFPL Wood Handbook, Chapter 16: Finishing of Wood, https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/products/publications/several_pubs.php?grouping_id=100 (4) http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/finishing/oil-finishes-their-history-and-use (5) http://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/finishes/choosing-best-wood-finish (6) http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/flexner-on-finishing-blog/comparing-linseed-oil-and-tung-oil (7) http://www.popularwoodworking.com/articleindex/teak-oil-oil-doesnt-exist
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From the album: Back in shed
Camphor Laurel 450 mm by 160 mm Bowl start -
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From the album: Back in shed
Natural edge Camphor Laurel bowl with light flaming burning done. -
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From the album: Back in shed
Camphor Laurel 450 mm by 160 mm Bowl start -
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From the album: Back in shed
Camphor Laurel 450 mm by 160 mm Bow start -
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From the album: Back in shed
Small Camphor Laurel bowl with Danish oil finish.-
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From the album: Back in shed
Small Camphor Laurel bowl with Danish oil finish. -
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From the album: Back in shed
Small Camphor Laurel bowl with Danish oil finish. -
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From the album: Back in shed
Natural edge Camphor Laurel bowl with light flaming burning done. -
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From the album: Back in shed
Natural edge Camphor Laurel bowl with light flaming burning done. -
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From the album: Back in shed
Natural edge Camphor Laurel bowl with light flaming burning done. -
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From the album: Back in shed
Natural edge Camphor Laurel bowl with light flaming burning done. -
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From the album: Back in shed
Natural edge Camphor Laurel bowl with light flaming burning done. -
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From the album: Back in shed
Natural edge Camphor Laurel bowl with light flaming burning done. -
Hey all, I just finished a shaker step for grandkids to use at the bathroom sink, its cherry with danish oil finish. All parts cut and dovetailed with hand tools. thanks for having me in the forum! kind regards, David
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From the album: Another chestnut stairway and a stickler settee
Another staircase in chestnut. movers destroyed the woodwork including putting hole in ceiling. stain is Jacobean with Watco danish oil non gloss over it.4 days of work. Why do I always get the hard jobs? And boss refused to move the one of a kind stickler settee from the foyer. -
Some stuff I did. You can probably see better in my gallery. Another staircase in chestnut. movers destroyed the woodwork including putting hole in ceiling. stain is Jacobean with Watco danish oil non gloss over it.4 days of work. Why do I always get the hard jobs? And boss refused to move the one of a kind stickler settee from the foyer.
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From the album: Another chestnut stairway and a stickler settee
