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Showing results for tags 'danish oil'.
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Bob's famous half-right rule. Half of what you hear about finishing is true. You just don't know which half.
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Often people beginning struggle with finishing. They find one that usually works, then use that one on everything, whether it's the best fit or not. Sort of like using the same tool for every operation. In fact some non-woodworkers tend to think of every finish as "polyurethane" (I've had customers say this to many times about their factory furniture.) https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/finishing/3finishes
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I made this in my tiny little shop (man, I’d really LOVE to have a window). Two are #4 hard maple shaker boxes with African mahogany tops. Also made two #3 shaker boxes from walnut with butternut tops. Hit them with some natural danish oil and after they dry for about 3 days or so, I’ll shoot them with about 4 coats of a satin poly. The hardest part for me is milling the stock to 1/16th of an inch....I seen to be able to get a better result on my table saw instead of the bandsaw....anyhow, I hope all youse guys are staying safe and healthy! I can’t wait until this comes to an end.
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It appears that the confusion over oil finishes is not just limited to the US. Some good information in the article and the comments. I was SHOCKED at the price of this huckster's oil. I also got a laugh that it could be up to 100% naphtha (in which case you'd be buying paint thinner). https://paulsellers.com/2019/06/finishing-with-danish-oil/?pk_campaign=feed&pk_kwd=finishing-with-danish-oil https://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/finishing/oil-finishes-their-history-and-use/
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*duplicate post somehow*
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Three things about oil finishes and closely related oil-varnish finishes. The latter is simply a blend of (three things) oil (usually linseed) varnish (alkyd, urethane, or phenolic or a mix of these) thinner The proportions vary a lot and these three things mix in any proportion the manufacturer or you want. You can even make your own; most people start with equal amounts of each. When I was a newbie, I even took a commercial Danish Oil and added varnish to it to "beef it up a bit." Oil and oil-vanish blends are probably the most mislabeled or mislea
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I'm getting close to the finishing stage for a walnut mantle clock I've been working on, and I'm looking for suggestions for an appropriate finish. The clock will be on a shelf in the bathroom, and so will be exposed to the humidity coming from the shower. Would danish oil be a good finish, or should I go with a poly? Also thinking of a seal coat of shellac, followed by several coats of satin poly. The shellac would probably be from a rattle can, and the poly would be wipe-on. The clock shouldn't be subject to too much physical wear and tear, so I am just mainly concerned about the bathro
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From the album: coffee table
Live edge American cherry coffee table. Top measures 50" long and 24" wide and stands 21" tall. Danish oil and 2 coats of wipe on poly to top surface for added protection. Legs are made from the cutoffs from canting some of the logs. I try to use as much of the tree as I can for conservation and to add some interest in my work. The legs are the corner blocks for the skirt and can not be removed and , I may add a lower shelf after I talk to the person it is being made for. -
TGIF : “Oil” finishes July 11, 2017 This week we explore “Oil Finishes,” that I put in quotes because it is probably one of the most mis-labeled* and myth-filled types of finishes. What is an oil finish? There are two true oil finishes in common use, linseed (oil extracted from the seeds of the flax plant) and tung oil (oil extracted from a nut from China). Raw linseed oil, while available, is seldom useful because it takes weeks to cure. Boiled linseed oil, sometimes called BLO (that is not boiled*), sometimes called BLO, but contains metallic driers that he
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TGIF : “Oil” finishes July 11, 2017 This week we explore “Oil Finishes,” that I put in quotes because it is probably one of the most mis-labeled* and myth-filled types of finishes. What is an oil finish? There are two true oil finishes in common use, linseed (oil extracted from the seeds of the flax plant) and tung oil (oil extracted from a nut from China). Raw linseed oil, while available, is seldom useful because it takes weeks to cure. Boiled linseed oil, sometimes called BLO (that is not boiled*), sometimes called BLO, but contains metallic driers that help
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From the album: Back in shed
Camphor Laurel 450 mm by 160 mm Bowl start -
From the album: Back in shed
Natural edge Camphor Laurel bowl with light flaming burning done. -
From the album: Back in shed
Camphor Laurel 450 mm by 160 mm Bowl start -
From the album: Back in shed
Camphor Laurel 450 mm by 160 mm Bow start -
From the album: Back in shed
Small Camphor Laurel bowl with Danish oil finish. -
From the album: Back in shed
Small Camphor Laurel bowl with Danish oil finish. -
From the album: Back in shed
Natural edge Camphor Laurel bowl with light flaming burning done. -
From the album: Back in shed
Natural edge Camphor Laurel bowl with light flaming burning done. -
From the album: Back in shed
Natural edge Camphor Laurel bowl with light flaming burning done. -
From the album: Back in shed
Natural edge Camphor Laurel bowl with light flaming burning done. -
From the album: Back in shed
Natural edge Camphor Laurel bowl with light flaming burning done. -
From the album: Back in shed
Natural edge Camphor Laurel bowl with light flaming burning done. -
Hey all, I just finished a shaker step for grandkids to use at the bathroom sink, its cherry with danish oil finish. All parts cut and dovetailed with hand tools. thanks for having me in the forum! kind regards, David
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From the album: Another chestnut stairway and a stickler settee
Another staircase in chestnut. movers destroyed the woodwork including putting hole in ceiling. stain is Jacobean with Watco danish oil non gloss over it.4 days of work. Why do I always get the hard jobs? And boss refused to move the one of a kind stickler settee from the foyer. -
Some stuff I did. You can probably see better in my gallery. Another staircase in chestnut. movers destroyed the woodwork including putting hole in ceiling. stain is Jacobean with Watco danish oil non gloss over it.4 days of work. Why do I always get the hard jobs? And boss refused to move the one of a kind stickler settee from the foyer.
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