I have already posted a lot about this at the introduce yourself site, they suggested I try here. I'm trying to turn a walnut bowl it is approx 12" long and 7" wide. It won't turn true. I've tried taking faff just a tiny amount and a larger amount and it seems to remove the wood evenly but leaves one area shallower than the rest.When I try to use the 4 jaw chuck I get a large vibration. I got some good suggestions at the intro site, but thought maybe here someone else might give me the aha! to the problem.

Oh yeah one other side issue. Does anyone know what diameter I need for the Grizzly Go584 tailstock handle.( when I go to Grizzly it won't pull this model up).I want to try and get a metal handle. My plastic one has broken down to just the plastic piece over the piece of metal it connects to. There seems to be a set screw, but it won't accept any allen wrenches and i would swear it isn't stripped but is flat. Strange. Right now I'm using a pr of vise grips as a handle. I'll have to crack it to get it off. I guess i could measure the rod it attaches to after it breaks off

Urbano, here is a like to the parts breakdown for your lathe.  The setscrew is metric.

http://www.manualslib.com/manual/272382/Grizzly-G0584.html

Looks like this is what you need-

https://www.grizzly.com/parts/P0584067?utm_campaign=zPage

 

Grizzly site shows this-

https://www.grizzly.com/parts/P0584068?utm_campaign=zPage  for the set screw. The site indicates a 5/16 x 18 screw 3/8" long. However the drawing indicates the screw is metric, as Dan said.

 

Grizzly has a pretty good customer service department. Call them and ask them to match the set screw to the handle when you order it. Grizzly # 1.800.523.4777

When you have the blank in the 4 jaw chuck and bring the tailstock up against the blank, do you still get the vibration? Does the vibration get less as you continue to hollow the bowl?

What type of chuck do you have?

" I'm trying to turn a walnut bowl it is approx 12" long and 7" wide."

 

The first thought I have is, that's a lot of wood sticking out of the chuck, especially if you're using 2" jaws. Also, knowing that lathe has a low end speed of around 600rpm I feel it's a recipe for disaster. I would recommend remounting it with a face plate and think about also using a steady rest.

 

Steve

My set screw must be stripped out then because looking into it with a light all I can see is flat silver, and even my smallest allen wrench just slides across it effortlessly. It is a 2" chuck , I made a steady rest out of an inline skate, it works pretty well, but still a fair amt of vibration. The vibration almost goes away when the tail stock is applied. I think I will try the faceplate. Thanks for the info. I will also be calling Grizzly.

Thanks , Urbano

7 hours ago, oljpj said:

The vibration almost goes away when the tail stock is applied

Does the piece set tight against the chuck jaws or does the tenon bottom out in the chuck? The face plate route is probably the best option, as Steve pointed out.

About to give up?! Hey Urbano, nobody gives up on The Patriot Woodworker!

We are here for you, thanks for joining us and please, never, ever give up!

I doubt IF that silver piece is the set screw.......you MIGHT try to install a new set screw into the hole, just to see IF the old one is missing.    You might be seeing just the shaft where the set screw used to be.

 

Just a thought...

Every time you change the way you are holding the bowl to turn it you will need to true it up again.  Rarely will it end up in the same exact plane of turning.

Also if you are leaving it sit for a day or two before you attempt to turn it again the bowl may warp in that amount of time if the blank was not truly dried.