Like all of you, I do a lot things in my shop that requires precise measuring and marking. It seems I can't get quality pencils anymore. Most are NOT made of wood (or strong wood) and they break extra easy. Then there is the lead, It is weak and brakes inside the wood. Next the lead wears down after a couple of long marks. Then the erasers die, get hard and unusable.  I do have metal scribes, but don't like to use them because they are hard for me to see. My vision up close isn't the best, due to many eye problems.

 

What do you use? Do you have suggestions?

 

Thanks

I'm with you on this one, Ron!

I had a mechanical drafting pencil- the kind that you put the thin lead pieces in. Dropped it on the floor and of course it hit on the point and bent the little metal sleeve- ruined! I buy the artist pencils, in white, for use on dark wood but the "lead" is soft and they need constant sharpening. 

 

My biggest problem is keeping track of the darned things. I need to figure out a way to keep one handy. Behind the ear doesn't work for me- weird ears I guess. Most of my shirts don't have pockets. My shop apron, which I usually forget to put on, doesn't have a pencil pocket. My turners jacket does have a pocket, but I usually forget to put that on, too.  I'm doomed!

 I try to have my pensils close to my work, even then they run away. I have a couple on a small tray I made on my lathe and I keep them handy on my layout table.  This works OK, not great, but the darn pencils are junk!! 

If I need a really accurate mark, I'll use my marking knife. If its on walnut, I'll dust the wood with chalk first.  

I have Cool Whip plastic tub stuffed to the gills with pencils (benefit of having to clean out student's lockers for 30+ years). Maybe I should strap it to my waist.

I use pencils most of the time. I have several boxes of pencils I got when a business went out of business. If I need something really on the mark I use my marking knife.

 

This is the best pencil ever, bar none. 

At times, when I find something I like, I may be prone to slight exaggeration.  But, this is really good tool.

27 minutes ago, Gene Howe said:

This is the best pencil ever, bar none. 

At times, when I find something I like, I may be prone to slight exaggeration.  But, this is really good tool.

I was looking for an excuse to go to the Woodcraft store!

I use a mechanical pencil -- but one that uses .9 mm led. and HB -- which is kind of soft.

The one that I use has the white eraser -- and those are made with material that does not age and degrade..  

Just now, RJH30518 said:

I use a mechanical pencil -- but one that uses .9 mm led. and HB -- which is kind of soft.

The one that I use has the white eraser -- and those are made with material that does not age and degrade..  

RJ, that is what I use. I have a pretty good supply of pencils as I am a Land Surveyor, we always got pencils. The No.9 is a great size, nice and thick and if you get the brand name led, it's pretty hardy. Do not buy led from the 99 cent store, the stuff is horrible!

Ron, I have never heard of using chalk on a marking line. Thanks, I'm going to try that. I do appreciate all the other responses and they are some good thoughts. That special pencil that does a great job............well I think it would be great.............but I lose (misplace :-)

so many pencils that I couldn't afford them 

4 hours ago, Ron Dudelston said:

If I need a really accurate mark, I'll use my marking knife. If its on walnut, I'll dust the wood with chalk first.  

Ron, how does this work? Dust the wood with chalk than use the marking knife if I read it correctly? So the marking knife when used through the chalk, would leave behind a definitive line?

Thanks

Office Depot carries a White Lead pencil. They come in packs of a dozen for 23.95 so about $2.00 a pencil. It is nice for marking on Dark Wood and being able to see the line.

 

My dad used to say to measure with a micrometer, Mark with chalk and cut with a hatchet. He didn't follow his own advice. He omitted the micrometer.

 

The pencil I referenced is florescent green. Hard to lose. And, it's built in sharpener will produce a needle point. The mark can easily be erased with a damp rag. Yet doesn't smear with handling.

Hey, for the price of a case of cheap beer, it's worth a shot. Try it. You'll like it.

 

6 hours ago, John Morris said:

Ron, how does this work? Dust the wood with chalk than use the marking knife if I read it correctly? So the marking knife when used through the chalk, would leave behind a definitive line?

Thanks

It does John.   The chalk dust acts as a lighter background on the walnut.  

I prefer a marking knife for real precision, but when using a pencil I bought some from LV that has a 2H lead, and the hard lead stands up to use a little better than my preferred 2B (darker, so i can see better). If I could find some ones with harder lead I would buy them, but this will do.

2 hours ago, Ron Dudelston said:

It does John.   The chalk dust acts as a lighter background on the walnut.  

Cool idea, I gotta try that.

Depends upon the degree of accuracy I need, whether it's rough (over-) length to start of guide lines for dovetails.

 

Chalk, carpenter's pencil, #1 pencil, 0.5 mm Pentel, or marking knife.

 

Paul Sellers introduced me to the term, "knife wall" as using a knife to create a stop.

 

Chris Schwarz also talks about Coarse, Medium and FIne aspects of woodworking (including, I suppose, marking) 

 

Good points K! Depends on accuracy needed for sure. 

49 minutes ago, kmealy said:

Paul Sellers introduced me to the term, "knife wall" as using a knife to create a stop.

Agree! I use this method for laying out/cutting dovetails