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Showing results for tags 'water'.
Found 7 results
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Ok, so I went down to Tulsa to the Woodcraft store on Saturday, and purchased their 2" x 6" x 18" granite plate to use primarily for sharpening chisels, plane irons, and my spokeshave blade. I followed their instructions on their web site, soaking the paper in water, hoping the capillary action would stick it down to the surface of the plate. That didn't exactly work. Some of it stuck down, but the ends were curling up. I pulled up a you tube video where the man was using a diamond plate and wrapped it with his wet or dry sandpaper to hold everything down. His reason for doing it that way was that yes, the paper will curl, and when the edge of your blade or iron hits the curl, it will start blunting the cutting edge. That made sense, so on to my question. Am I doing the water thing wrong, or was that just an advertising ploy to get people to buy their granite plate. Do I need to use spray adhesive to adhere the paper to the plate? I will appreciate any advice.
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Good day folks, I have a little problem. Our kitchen sink faucet all the sudden lost pressure. About half. For no reason at all it seems, I did a visual inspection underneath, the hot and cold water are on full max, the stainless hose that the faucet detachable spray nozzle is connected too, is not kinked nor blocked. There is nothing visually that seems to have caused the sudden low drop. The face of the nozzle that has all the spray pattern holes in it, is clear and clean, no deposits blocking the flow, it's a pretty new faucet, I installed earlier this year. The rest of the house is flowing fine. Any ideas?
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My daughter wants a clear finish on an Oak top for a bed side table. The polyacrlic from min wax is in a can but is hard to mix to a satin sheen. I did pre raise the grain with distilled water and will lightly sand with 400 to know it back down. The color of the oak when wet is a lighter tan but when dry is basicaly white. So I think I have white oak. Should i put some linseed oil on it first to give it some depth and color or just coat with clear water based poly? Will water based poly go over linseed oil? I could impart some color with a base coat fo shellac but i have non mixed and I have dark garnet, orange and light. So a seal coat of light could be laid down. This oak has bin holes due to bugs and some slots where they traveled horiziontialy. But over all the table top is sound and in good shape. Will the water based dry to a wet look of tan boards or a dry look of dry boards? i have some scraps I can practice on but wanted your valuable opinons first. Thanks in advance Michael
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Remember the idiot that sued a ladder manufacturer because their ladder slipped on a frozen pile of cow manure? Well, here's another Mensa candidate whose heirs will likely bring suit. Cell phone charging
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I have been hearing about the problems created by using steel wool in water based finishes. Does anyone have a picture of the rust in the finish? I am wondering if I cold purposely do that and create a unique finish. Are there problems with the finish coming off or flaking?
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I'm building a child's high chair out of maple. Going to use water based "poly". I've sanded all of the pieces thru 150. Should I raise the grain now? And if so do I spray water on the pieces or wipe them with a wet rag. In the past, I've applied the first coat of poly, which raised the grain, sanded and then applied additional coats. I thought about using a Shellac primer but wanted to keep the maple about the same color. Any tips/ideas will be greatly appreciated.
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Finally able to get back to this little story. Ok, it is the morning after all the forms have set up and lined up. Everything is ready to pour. On some jobs, we had to set aside three plastic containers. These would get filled just like the forms will be. They would then be sent out for testing. Generator gassed up and running, cords ran. Empty 5 gal. buckets set out.....? While we'd wash off with the truck's hose, after the truck has left, we'd still need water to clean the small towels.. Truck is on the way! We need a Chuteman, a Vibrator man, and a mag trowel man. Would help to have someone guide the truck, too. Some of the drivers I have seen.....needed all the help they could get. We'd start at a corner, farthest away from where the truck would enter the site. Then we'd work towards the entry spot. When the chutes arelowered a bit, we'd have the driver run out a few shovel fulls and check IF it was wet enough to work with. Usually, we'd add more water....looking for a 6" Slump. Pour it thin, and watch it fill. Too stiff a pour is a lot of vibrating to get the mud to flow. Stiff mud also will "Hammer" the forms, leading to problems. Like BLOW-OUTS!. Usually, we'd luck out, and get the newer front chute trucks....trucks with chutes out the back are a bit hard to control. Front dumpers, the driver is in control of the chute, Chuteman merely directs where the chute needs to go next. Rear Dumpers.....Fun is not a word I like to use here. You NEED a driver who will LISTEN to the chute guy. have seen a few where the chute guy is left hanging from the chute over a trench. Do NOT get in a hurry with placing the mud, pour enough for one lift at a time. On the walls today, that would be a 2' high pour, all the way around, then start again and finish the second 2' pour. Too much too soon leaves voids, and can cause blow outs. Vibrator guy: Motorized snake he dips to the bottom of the forms, to drive out any air trapped in there. I say "DIPS' because you do not just slam it to the bottom and leave it there. You dip it down about 3 times, and then move on about 2-4', and dip again. While you can slam it to the bottom, you should pull it back up just a hair slower. Lots of times, the V man will walk along on top of the forms, keeping an eye on the chute. It stops, he stops. You do want things to get to where the chute will knock the poor guy off the forms. mag trowel guy: First lift, he follows along the rest of the crew. No need for the trowel just yet. Hs job is to watch the forms, and make sure all connectors stay that way.....usually has a framer hammer in hand. Ok, first lift is done, second truck NEEDS to be waiting over at the start point, ready to go. You grab the "sock" off the chute of the first truck, IF it is yours, and not the truck's. Find out IF the second driver has one. Check how wet his load is. And start along in the same direction as before. You want a hair of a delay between the two, to let the first load settle a bit, but, not too long. Too much time delay leads to cold joints. Now as you go along chute man loads enough into the forms to just cover the grade nails, as the V man will knock it down a bit. Trowel guy works the surface to bring up the cream. He also tries to bring the surface up to grade. Sometimes, we'd have someone with a shovel, walking along and adding a bit of mud to help reach grade. V Man still has to plunge all the way to the bottom, and pull the snake all the way back out. usually once every 2' will do the trick. have a place set up for the trucks to wash out at. Have a wheelbarrow there as well, never know IF you will need a shovelfull here or there.. Once the trucks are done, you set up the transit/builder's level at the batter boards. One one the transit one on the wall with a speed square and a hammer. Task is to align the wall as needed. Hammer it for turning the turnbuckles to adjust the wall. You work your way around the walls. Walls are now straight, and plumb. Trowel man is still working along the top of the wall. IF it is just grade nails, he will pull them out at this time. Champfer strips will come off when the forms are stripped. Sometimes, we would go back over the top of the wall, as some would want a slick finish. I had a steel trowel cut to just fit between the forms on an 8" thick wall. Buckets of water to wash the tools up with. However, do NOT wash the end of the vibrator by dunking it into the bucket, and turn the switch to "ON".......you and anyone else nearby will get a bath. Just spray it off with the last truck's hose. Wall is done. lay some plastic over the tops of the forms and tack it in place. more to keep any rain OUT. Reset the yellow tape around the site. put the tools away.....except IF there is to be anchor bolts or inserts floated in to the top of the wall, trowel man will install those. They have to be hooked onto the top rebar in the wall. Any that were already installed, needed to be shaken a bit, to get the air out from around them, and under the plywood template holding them there. Put the Generator away, roll up the cords. Tomorrow you can come back and strip forms all day long. Stay tuned for that. This was meant to stop when the wall was poured and stripped. Framers can take this job from when the concrete is ready for a load on them.....maybe a week, usually 2. This foundation with have a crawl space, so there are a few things left to do for that to happen..Stay tuned
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