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Found 6 results

  1. From the Smithsonian on caring and preventing damage (attached file). Especially see the note on vinegar & linseed oil concoctions (p. 15) And an article by Jeff Jewitt on saving the finish (without stripping when possible) And Flexner why "don't refinish and 'destroy the value'" is not always correct and a response mcifurniturecare.pdf
  2. Ugh, another project courtesy of my daughter's mother-in-law. When they moved, she gave my daughter an old cedar chest. It has been a project! MIL is famous for giving them something that I have to finish up. First problem is that the front legs (turned) were about half gone due to dog chews. Well, I don't turn, so I broke them apart, stripped the frou-frou, and made tapered legs and plan to move the legs that are in reasonable condition to the front, and the tapered ones to the back. Then on to stripping and cleaning the carcase. Next issue is the top has more frou-frou, a scrolled piece on each end and turnings all the way across the back. It was hard to strip it and get much of it off, due to the frou-frou and tight clearances. So I removed it and then can get under the scroll work and joints. Then on to scraping and sanding the concave profiled edge trim. Spent all afternoon today cleaning up and sanding just the back piece. I finally, after several hours, found that the turned pieces were just a bit loose in the ends. So I took them apart. Then I sawed off the turned parts from the squarish center. Put them on the Shopsmith in lathe mode and sanded like a turner. I'll have to drill out and add some dowels to rejoin. But at least the sanding went faster and I could get into all the little concave areas. Next will be the base cabinet. I wish it would be easier, but there are two large C-shaped scrollworks, and a raised panel of burl veneer. And base molding all around. More fussy frou-frou cleanup. All the panels are walnut veneer and all the frou-frou is poplar. Another challenge down the road in the finishing stage. Let's just say, it was way easier for the factory to spray on some finish and toner than it is to get it all off. I do hope daughter appreciates it. I wish I'd taken "as is" pictures. Here's some in-progress.
  3. My son has asked me to refinish his kitchen cabinets. I am planning to use Sherwin Williams Sher-wood Kem Aqua plus white for the doors and drawer fronts. This is the product I used for the small additional cabinet I made for him earlier this year. It is a water base material. If I skuff the door/drawer fronts with P220, is this enough prep for the SW product to adhere to the oak wood? They will be cleaned with Murphy's soap prior to sanding. The end panels are not wood, but a plastic laminate. Can I use the SW product? If not, what is needed? Will the end panels need skuffed? Appreciate your input. Thanks in advance. Danl
  4. Furniture Repair & Refinishing (Creative Homeowner Ultimate Guide To. . .) by Brian D. Hingley Note there is a revised version now that is a shorter book (from what I've heard). Buy a used copy if you can find one (and there are some out there, but not the $66 one). As the title hints, there are two parts to the book. The second half is good and talks about stripping and refinishing. Something most of the other 'finishing' books don't dedicate a lot of space to. The first half is a gem. I bought this when I was starting out in the repair business and found it very useful. He covers how to repair all sorts of damage to furniture and is well-illustrated. As an aside, there is a YouTuber, Wooden That Be Nice that does single topic posts on various furniture repairs. He seems to do most of the work in the shop, so making parts is common and he likes to use Minwax stains and poly, something that's not as practical for an on-site job that you need to get in and out in about an hour. But it's useful for someone doing their own (or friends) repairs in their shops. Look for this cover:
  5. TGIF stripping Sometimes, we’re faced with stripping and refinishing a piece of furniture. Finishes that are cracked severely or turned soft and gooey are beyond trying to save. Getting the old finish off Generally speaking, scraping or sanding is a poor way to remove an old finish. Unless you are taking off a significant amount of wood (like on a floor refinish), your removal of finish and stain will likely be uneven. And it will take a long, long time and lots of sandpaper to remove an old finish. Even if it looks good in the raw state, there may be some areas where finish remains in the surface of the wood. Likewise, removing with a heat gun is risky because of potential damage to the wood and glues. The way to go is with a chemical stripper. There are several types. With all types, be sure to wear eye and skin protection (including chemical-resistant gloves) and work in a ventilated area. While using a chemical stripper is messy and can be smelly, it’s usually over much faster than sanding and going through many sheets of gummed up sandpaper. Bite the bullet. Methylene Chloride (MC) This is the most common type and has been used for many years. It’s also one of the strongest and fastest working Be sure to use this in a well-ventilated area. This type is usually considered to work “from the bottom up” releasing the bond between the finish and the wood. It evaporates fairly quickly, so some types include a wax as a vapor sealer. For the same reason, put on a thick coat and don’t keep working it around. Another technique is to put on the stripper and cover it with a sheet of plastic (VisQueen). Let it work, usually longer than the can recommends, and scrape off with a putty knife and discard the gunk. A bucket of can of sawdust works well to hold the goo. MC is heavy so look for the can with the heaviest weight and it will have a better concentration of MC. Safety warning: MC is a suspected carcinogen. I have a friend who died from cancer that he attributed to his PhD lab work with MC. But tests have been somewhat inconclusive. Also it can affect the oxygen carrying capacity of your blood – don’t use this if you have a heart condition. N-methyl Pyrrolidone (NMP) Sometimes sold as “safe” or “citrus” strippers. It is a slower evaporating and slower working stripper. It is said to “work from the top down.” The recommended stripping dwell time is often optimistic, so let it work. Likewise, putting on a sheet of plastic will keep it wet longer. I’ve often put it on in the morning and let it work to mid-afternoon. Some people let it work overnight. NMP strippers also make an excellent brush cleaner. Put some in a jar and soak your brushes in it. The next day, they’ll clean up with soap and water. Safety warning: NMP is not “harmless” but evaporates so slowly that it will mostly dissipate. But ventilate where possible. With either of the above, especially in semi-paste format, use a stiff brush, cord, or angled scrapers to get all the residue out of the convex areas such as carvings, turnings, and moldings. You can also use coarse sawdust such as from a jointer or planer rubbed into the softened finish. Because of the potential for wax or residues, I recommend scrubbing with a strong solvent like acetone, lacquer thinner, or even mineral spirits. Acetone-Toluene-Methanol. (ATM) This is a mix of solvents commonly found in lacquer thinner. These are often labeled “Furniture Refinisher” and not stripper. Formsby’s Furniture Refinisher is one common type. This is flammable and needs to also be used in a well-ventilated area. To use this type, you scrub the finish with steel wool or Scotch-Brite soaked in the stripper, keep dipping it in and scrubbing and wipe with a cloth dampened in same. This is perhaps more laborious (you don’t just apply and wait). I’d recommend this for small objects only. ATM are effective on shellac, lacquer (the most common factory finish) and water based finishes, but not so much on varnishes. Lye (Sodium Hydroxide) This will remove some finishes, but has IMO, several disadvantages. It is very caustic and your skin and eyes need to be very protected. Vapors can also be noxious. It has become harder to obtain (you used to be able to find it grocery stores) since it’s used in meth labs. And it can alter the color of some woods via chemical reaction. Lye can also degrade some wood fibers. Residues , a strong alkali, may affect some finishes if not thoroughly rinsed. So scratch this one off your list. OK, so you don’t like stripping or don’t have a place to do it (especially in the winter time). You can “sub it out” (@stick) and have a furniture refinisher do the stripping for you They are likely to throw it in a tank of hot stripper for a while, so it may affect the joinery. Just a warning. After the stripping. Regardless of what stripper you use, make sure it’s thoroughly rinsed of and removed. Then let it dry well, for several days if possible (ATM is a little more forgiving if you are going back over with a shellac or lacquer). Sand to remove the fuzzies. Remember, it was once sanded before it was finished, you don’t need to do very strong sanding unless you are removing defects. Be especially careful on veneered or plywood surfaces. It’s easy to sand through these. I normally do a light sanding with 180 or 200 grit. Once that you are at this stage, continue with your staining and finishing just like you would with a new wood project. >>> OK >>>> I'm reaching the end of my list of topics that came to mind. I'm open to suggestions. What would you like to see / discuss? Further reading Refinishing considered bad? Not always. http://masterpiecefurniture.com/design_notes/flexner/antiques_roadshow.html
  6. lew

    Ask HLM

    From the WOOD Magazine Finishing & Refinishing Forum host Steve Mickley
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