6 hours ago, Grandpadave52 said:

I need to run a couple errands today but the continual 50+ mph wind gusts are extinguishing my moto-vations. We'll see. Donut know about tomorrow. Church Sunday.

It's sooooo windy up here In WI that Larry is now only 2 minutes from the east coast.
When I woke up this morning we did not have a sailboat, however if these winds keep up, I predict we'll have one buy morning. the other thing on my weekend is predicting how little of the predicted 15-18" of snow we'll actually get on Sunday

Worked on cabinet assembly. The 3D printed "corner holders" that I printed worked GREAT! Total game changer. They were 19mm which was a good size as 18mm was too snug for this plywood.

Using those holders, first worked on getting the sides, top and bottom in place.

Checked diagonals and then used a clamp across the longer diagonal plus use of the back panel to get them pretty good square. Maybe not perfect, but about within a 1/16. Here's the end of day status. Much thanks to my hubby who handled the pocket holes.

My next step will be to get the base/toe kick in place and level. Plan to build the base frame that I'll level so I can then set the cabinet boxes on that - seems easier than cutting in the toe kicks and having to level the cabinets. Since you all provided great information on getting the boxes square...have a question on how to approach this as my floor is concrete. Should I seal the plywood that will contact the concrete floor (paint?). I know typically it's best to avoid wood contact with concrete for potential moisture issues.

6 minutes ago, BB1 said:

have a question on how to approach this as my floor is concrete. Should I seal the plywood that will contact the concrete floor (paint?). I know typically it's best to avoid wood contact with concrete for potential moisture issues.

If you have the material, create the cabinet base/toe kick from treated materials (deck boards).

21 minutes ago, lew said:

treated materials

I'll admit I hate working with treated wood, so trying to think of alternatives.

25 minutes ago, BB1 said:

I'll admit I hate working with treated wood, so trying to think of alternatives.

I understand that. Composite materials?

Just now, lew said:

Composite materials?

Might be an option but guessing pricey. Thinking if I could use a moisture barrier and/or leveling feet.

1 hour ago, BB1 said:

Should I seal the plywood that will contact the concrete floor (paint?).

You could seal the floor with a product like Kilz (HERE) on the floor to help mitigate any moisture from penetrating from below. That said, I wouldn't want plywood (or any other wood) in direct contact with concrete unless it was treated. Another option might be to frame out the base using steel studs. JMO.

Edit: forgot to embed the link.

Edited March 14Mar 14 by Grandpadave52

Looked at leveling feet that I could attach on the base to avoid contact with the concrete plus would allow me to level without having to use shims (not a big deal, but my floor has some cracks and isn’t fully level).

3 minutes ago, BB1 said:

Looked at leveling feet that I could attach on the base to avoid contact with the concrete plus would allow me to level without having to use shims (not a big deal, but my floor has some cracks and isn’t fully level).

Sounds like a doable solution. Anxious to see the finished installation!

24 minutes ago, lew said:

Anxious to see the finished installation!

Me too!! 🤣🤣🤣 Likely need to stare at the ceiling when I should be sleeping for a night or two to finalize my plans. 😉

4 minutes ago, BB1 said:

Me too!! 🤣🤣🤣 Likely need to stare at the ceiling when I should be sleeping for a night or two to finalize my plans. 😉

Just pretend you're sawing logs 'er panels.😅

...have a question on how to approach this as my floor is concrete. Should I seal the plywood that will contact the concrete floor (paint?). I know typically it's best to avoid wood contact with concrete for potential moisture issues.

my shop cabinets rest on pipe "legs" keeping them off the floor. There is probably commercially available legs that are cheap, moisture resistant and easy to use that would work. with a toe-kick that just wedges in place minimizing contact with the concrete

Plan to make a zero clearance insert for my table saw and a larger work surface for my table top band saw.

I like the leveling feet idea, simple and will allow you to more easily (I think) get everything leveled up.

One aspect with the leveling feet is how to clean under the cabinets. To have a gap so the toe kick doesn't touch the concrete floor means "stuff" can get under (have had mice in the building before so that came to mind too). Could I caulk below the plywood to the floor or would that defeat the gap benefit?

They do sell a concrete sealer to go on concrete slabs/floors. BTDT

Also, when we placed anything on top of a concrete slab...usually a layer of foam strips held in place with a caulking compound. Think red iron c channels tapconned down to concrete slab.

Today? I have a few clamps to remove...

and then add 6 drawer runners, and add the back parts?

4 hours ago, BB1 said:

To have a gap so the toe kick doesn't touch the concrete floor

Just thinking about my own basement shop and concrete moisture- mold when there is no air circulation.

1 hour ago, lew said:

mold when there is no air circulation.

Good point to factor in.

I picked up some primer and paint for the base, and leveling feet to elevate should arrive midweek.

Bases put together and ready for primer and paint. Should be able to get that done before the leveling feet arrive next week.

Hadn't planned to use 2x4 but didn't have a long enough section of 3/4 plywood. Ripped the edges and final width is about 3.25 which is what I wanted. Also used some doubled up 3/4 plywood for added stretchers.

This is another project that is inching along slowly, but at least made a little forward progress. Much thanks to my husband who did the pocketholes.