I rarely have a drilled hole in a finished work that shows. Yes I have the other bits but for me it is the size of the bit that determines. I do tend to push my bits a bit too much also. So I use twist bits mostly

Went a cheaper route with this little set.

Hopefully will give me decent results. Unfortunately, smallest in the set is 1/8 so still need to find smaller bits for pilot holes.

1 hour ago, BB1 said:

Went a cheaper route with this little set.

Hopefully will give me decent results. Unfortunately, smallest in the set is 1/8 so still need to find smaller bits for pilot holes.

how small a bit are you looking for? I found a set on Amazon with bits down to 1/16, but unfortunately, not as single bits.

42 minutes ago, Wichman3 said:

a set on Amazon with bits down to 1/16,

That would have been good and even a few steps smaller. Having the full range is helpful as when I make frames the screws for the back tabs are small but still need a pilot

The really small bits usually come in either a much larger set or a miniature set. They are intended for people who make miniature models . Try Micro Mark, they should have them .

Gerald - thanks for that search tip. Just ordered a bunch of the small-sized bits that are missing from my other sets: 3/32 to 1/8

You can also use a small wire brad as an impromptu bit. cut the head off and chuck it up use a fast speed and you will be surprised at how well it works.

5 hours ago, Rusty S said:

You can also use a small wire brad as an impromptu bit

These type of tips are good when in the midst of a project with no time/opportunity to get the "right" tool.

If you’re struggling with basic holes, it’s likely the bits you’re using cheap twist bits just don’t cut well in wood. Most woodworkers swear by brad-point bits or a decent Forstner set for clean holes in plywood and solid wood. A good set from brands like Freud, Irwin, or Diablo will make drilling way easier and more accurate. Also think about a quality hole saw set and maybe a step bit for quick sizing.

Have a new set of brad point bits and then also purchased a set of small bits for pilot holes - already used a couple yesterday. 🙂

Since you all have given me good suggestions on spending some money 😉, I'd love to hear favorite countersink bits. I have a 3-bit set that I bought from Rockler years ago. I would like a better ability to be consistent with the countersink depth. I saw the Karz Moses tool-less countersink which looks to solve that.

I've come to prefer this style of countersink. I just get better results (centered more accurately) using this type. The price in the pic seems awfully high to me, I do't remember paying that much, but I have several of them in different sizes. For sure it's makes the hole drilling a 2 step operation, but I'm a hobbyist.

51 minutes ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

For sure it's makes the hole drilling a 2 step operation, but I'm a hobbyist.

With this, do you get a consistent depth for the countersink by eye? That's the part I need to improve as I'm "close" to consistent.

in my opinion for consistent depth you need some kind of a depth stop. would it be possible to drill a hole in scrap wood , that is thick enough to give the proper depth, i know hard to center, but just thinking out loud. ideal would be drill press but poor people poor ways

Amana also has a stop system with countersink...but $$

I don’t use a countersink by itself. I do use a Snappy counter bore which drills screw hole and counter together. Works well but the problem with all these is when it needs sharpening

I have several kinds of countersink bits but like this one the most.

@MrRick beat me to it

Here's another similar option-

https://www.amazon.com/Countersink-Blades-Adjustable-Plastic-Woodworking/dp/B0DQLGG8M3/ref=sr_1_8?crid=DYFEKJJSO8QH&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Q0jKwjht9LHN131R0NdgVXr3c8oBFM44jX5pOkP4S31GTadFO112I5oKs_w7rsFzH0csT4fscNQ42wFNnc2BT7p5PQrOcJVdUa5rUtYGsbM2XKRccp1QXE9oU2t3HT1q1YLbmN5ehEOWNKpJu12PhnfzcqZ_m_kwHIiCyf_31uPRl8BsBRjD3mjyZmDxiQhtc16aOqXTr6QIARn4P8bFWuYCq5Q60biDBdClCY55WwrZJwygfLaiKgIWLAZHpx9sKDzljL7_eOgLF3YIKo2FRqOtbz9chG-MPtXqQCpQTIQ.ADGk5CpPyXNhDmoBnPf3kC6sPhga_ql75dgcOKfjOFg&dib_tag=se&keywords=depth%2Bstops&qid=1772034915&sprefix=depth%2Bstops%2Caps%2C183&sr=8-8&th=1

I have those too but like the depth stop one better. Another thing is it seems to help in keeping the entry cutting perpendicular.

4 hours ago, BB1 said:

With this, do you get a consistent depth for the countersink by eye? That's the part I need to improve as I'm "close" to consistent.

It doesn't have a stop, so it's by eye. I'll usually have one of my screws next to me, and stick the head of it (screw held upside down) into the hole to see if it's deep enough.

On 2/24/2026 at 5:08 PM, BB1 said:

Have a new set of brad point bits and then also purchased a set of small bits for pilot holes - already used a couple yesterday. 🙂

Since you all have given me good suggestions on spending some money 😉, I'd love to hear favorite countersink bits. I have a 3-bit set that I bought from Rockler years ago. I would like a better ability to be consistent with the countersink depth. I saw the Karz Moses tool-less countersink which looks to solve that.

When I can I use the drill press for accurate countersink depth. When the drill press can't be used then I use a drill guide, most of the have depth stops, so you can adjust the countersink for your spefications. The price of the drill guide can be quite low, about $40, to quite high. The drill guide is quite flexible, so it's not a one trick pony.

drill guide: