Wasn't sure of the correct terminology, but I'm looking to improve my drill bits and other tool accessories. This past weekend I was drilling (trying) through some plywood with a large cheap drill bit as I muttered to myself that this simple hole should not be this hard to complete! As I start to dive into the online search, would be interested in hearing the "best buy" options that others have found to be a must-have as a woodworker.

Morning BB, I don't want to insult your intelligence, or experience, but I've seen a lot of woodworkers using drill bits designed for metal, like twist bits instead of actual spur style bits made for wood, just wanted to make sure you are on the right footing in that regard. You are using wood boring bits correct?

Also, are you using power or hand tools to bore your holes? Knowing that would help us make an informed suggestion. Thanks!

I really like brad point bits. Much cleaner exit hole and seem to track "truer" but they are more difficult to sharpen. Forstner bits are great however using them with a hand drill requires a lot of pressure and a little "wiggling". They can be sharpened with a diamond hone. Don't buy the "complete" set rather buy the ones you need as you go.

Twist bits can be hand sharpened, so I've heard, but I've never mastered that 😄. I was lucky enough to pick up a Drill Doctor at a yard sale and it works great.

Diamond Hones are really handy for touchup sharpening on chisels as well. Also thing about card scrapers to aid in reducing sanding time.

I'd suggest the brad point bits as well, this set from Lee Valley gets a lot of praise. I've had it for probably 20 years and it still works great. However, the price has went up quite a bit since I bought mine. You might be able to find a set of brad point bits at Menards sold under the Montana brand. These aren't quite as good as the LV set, but a lot cheaper...or at least they were; and Menards may have dropped the line. Another good name for these bits is W. L. Fuller. Both fuller and Montana are USA made. You'd have to search for the fuller bits, but I think I got the ones I have from Acme Tools.

Lipped Brad point bits especially in plywood. Forstner bits & Twist bits.

2 hours ago, John Morris said:

woodworkers using drill bits designed for metal

Well, I may have! 🤦‍♀️ And, yes, mainly using power tools.

2 hours ago, lew said:

I really like brad point bits.

I have just a few of these.

2 hours ago, lew said:

Forstner bits are great

Have a set of these but only use in my little benchtop drill press (I hope to upgrade as it stuggles with any larger bits).

49 minutes ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

Both fuller and Montana are USA made.

Thanks - I'll look into those. And as you noted, prices on about all tools have really gone up. The local used market around me is pretty pricy too (even for "well used" items).

6 minutes ago, MrRick said:

Lipped Brad point bits especially in plywood. Forstner bits & Twist bits.

Had to look up the "lipped" brad point.

For twist bit - dumb question, but not sure how to tell if these are for wood or metal. Google tells me the angles differ - not sure if I would be able to visually see the difference?

Lipped brad point bits are very good on plywood. But also equally good on all wood. Cuts very clean. Something that needs to be mentioned is that not only is it the right bit necessary for what you are drilling but also SPEED. Many woodworkers don't have enough of an understanding of speed for what you are drilling. Also diameter size has a relationship to selecting right speed.

Twists bits are originally for metal but have a place on woodworking.

I may be way wrong, but I don't consider any twist bits to be made for woodworking. That's not to say they won't work, they just don't do it as well as the alternatives. Also, the twist are generally readily available in more sizes so if you need some uncommon size that may be the only choice.

42 minutes ago, MrRick said:

Something that needs to be mentioned is that not only is it the right bit necessary for what you are drilling but also SPEED. Many woodworkers don't have enough of an understanding of speed for what you are drilling.

That would be me. I flip the drill to the little drill setting (rather than the numbers) and drill. 🤷‍♀️ I guess I adjust speed with the trigger somewhat.

32 minutes ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

the twist are generally readily available in more sizes so if you need some uncommon size that may be the only choice.

I need to get a full set of the brad point, but in particular, want to have mutiples of the smaller bits needed for pilot holes.

Here

is a link to a speed chart. I use the brad point style when I can. When I'm drilling pilot holes for my scroll saw work, the bits are just too small for brad point bits. Beware the construction grade bits and styles, they are designed for quick holes with little regard for precision, smoothness, or minimizing tearout.

I wouldn't be so rigid as to say "this if for that and that is for this."

Ever hear this saying:

"It's not the weapon but how you wield it"

It's meant to emphasizes that skill, intent, and personal accountability are more important than the tool itself. It suggests that expertise and purpose define effectiveness, as a tool is merely an extension of the user.

You can get by with any bit. Just be aware of what it does or will do and move forward with your skill to pull off what you are doing.

4 hours ago, Wichman3 said:

link to a speed chart.

Hmmm...that's all blurry for me. Maybe need to be a subscriber? And, for me, I typically use my handheld drill rather than drill press (old low-end drill press that I hope to replace at some point).

4 hours ago, MrRick said:

Just be aware of what it does or will do and move forward with your skill to pull off what you are doing.

My skill is low on this so will take any advantage a tool can give me! 😉

1 minute ago, BB1 said:

Hmmm...that's all blurry for me. Maybe need to be a subscriber? And, for me, I typically use my handheld drill rather than drill press (old low-end drill press that I hope to replace at some point).

That's just an illustration of what the file looks like. Just below the illustration is a link to a .pdf of the chart; it's two pages, so if you want to print it out and hang it in the shop you would print front and back on cardstock. I have my original when it came with the magazine, but they have been nice enough to provide it to everyone.

Note I found this guide from Katz-Moses for forstner bits.

WOOD-DrillPressSpeedChart.pdf

Here's the chart in pdf. 2 pages. Once downloaded andprinted, it should be legible

36 minutes ago, Wichman3 said:

Just below the illustration is a link to a .pdf of the chart; it's two pages

I didn't scroll down far enough! Thank you!

1 hour ago, BB1 said:

My skill is low on this so will take any advantage a tool can give me! 😉

Never say "Can't" and never lower yourself. 'Cuz There are plenty of people that will do it for you.

Move forward, try again and again, and achieve.

For sure Mr. Rick, but I'm also wise enough to know I have a lot to learn and trying to get better about asking for help (thus, my original question 🙂).