April 20, 20242 yr Popular Post This was harder than it looked!!! Had to go back to woodworking basics - cutting angles, especially the 22.5 (youtube vid made it look so easy) needed for the base. Plus the slot for the acrylic and notch for the back. Then put it all together and hoped the flag would fit. I've seen better folds but this is what was used. Made a lot of firepit fuel and probably have enough pieces cut and laying around to make another one or two boxes. Makes one appreciate "old school skills." Tip: unlock the head on a compound miter saw before trying to use it. Works a lot better. This is for my wife's step dad who adopted her kid brother when he was 10 and raised him. Going to give it to him this afternoon. Edited April 20, 20242 yr by honesttjohn
April 20, 20242 yr Popular Post Great work John for an even greater cause. Thank-you and Thank-you SFC Franzel.
April 21, 20242 yr Popular Post Great looking piece. Those 22.5 degree corners are challenging. I cut mine on a table saw with a tenoning jig.
April 21, 20242 yr Author Popular Post 22 minutes ago, Ron Dudelston said: Those 22.5 degree corners are challenging. I cut mine on a table saw with a tenoning jig. I see where you can do it in all 45 degrees by putting the bottom piece inside the side pieces. Might try that if there is a next time.
April 22, 20242 yr 11 hours ago, Ron Dudelston said: Great looking piece. Those 22.5 degree corners are challenging. I cut mine on a table saw with a tenoning jig. John may have a much simpler way to tackle that corner, but I would still like to see how you position the piece on the jig Ron. Thanks.
April 22, 20242 yr Popular Post 11 hours ago, honesttjohn said: I see where you can do it in all 45 degrees by putting the bottom piece inside the side pieces. Might try that if there is a next time. That is an option that many use but I believe the full miter looks better. Cal, you cut the sides and base by setting the blade at 67.5 degrees, stand the pieces on end and cut them. Typically, I will set the angle with a digital protractor and cut the sides. Then I measure the actual angle that was cut and adjust the base angle to it. So, if the side angle cuts at 22.3 I will reset the blade to reflect the change. My old Uni is tight enough that it rarely deviates. Clearly, cutting at 45 degrees and assembling to the inside is easier and faster.
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