On 3/14/2022 at 11:15 AM, Grandpadave52 said:

Truck coils should be here tomorrow. Got 8, Bosch with Lifetime Warranty

Geez, now that I'm reminded ... My truck is at 99,ooo miles and 9years3days ... and the new OEM plugs have been here for a good six months at least. Now, the age-old debate: to anti-seize the threads or not to anti-seize the threads ... 

1 hour ago, Dovetail said:

Now, the age-old debate: to anti-seize the threads or not to anti-seize the threads ... 

 

LOL - that right there would be worth it's own topic!  That, and how to use dielectric grease

 

FYIW, I do use the gray anti-seize on plugs.  And a torque wrench on spark plugs?  Please, I live in the real world! 

Maybe my brother up there in Indiana will weigh in on this for you, @Grandpadave52, care to join in?

1 hour ago, Dovetail said:

Now, the age-old debate: to anti-seize the threads or not to anti-seize the threads ... 

Right or wrong, I use anti-seize on all spark plugs no matter the application. Have for lots of years. That was further reinforced during my manufacturing career when our engineering prints called out the use for spark plug installation during initial build (commercial engine applications). For spark plugs, I use the Copper infused anti-seize. I do keep both types on hand. YMMV.

I didn't use anti seize until they started putting aluminum heads on engines, once they did I started using it all the time.

51 minutes ago, Cal said:

 

LOL - that right there would be worth it's own topic!  That, and how to use dielectric grease

 

FYIW, I do use the gray anti-seize on plugs.  And a torque wrench on spark plugs?  Please, I live in the real world! 

Maybe my brother up there in Indiana will weigh in on this for you, @Grandpadave52, care to join in?

Well I did weigh in 6 minutes before your post by the forum "Tac Timer" but yours posted ahead of mine...must be the change to DST?

 

FWIW, a "good rule of thumb" for anti-seize use, you are pretty safe using in applications where combustion gas is present; e.g. exhaust manifold bolts, manifold gaskets, spark plugs threads, exhaust pipe connections, etc. I often use a thin layer on paper type intake manifold gaskets (although modern automotive applications use silicone seals versus paper), coolant gaskets or where ease of disassembly is desired.

 

Use on other fasteners such as lug bolts/nuts, head bolts, and the like is not recommended. Doing so where dry assembly is recommended can result in much higher clamp load and fastener stretch do to the reduced coefficient of friction. Using a torque wrench (torque is rotation about an axis; Torque = Force x Length/Distance) does provide reassurance the proper clamp load and bolt stretch has been obtained.

 

Of course that is assuming a multiple of variables in of itself; bolt/nut grade hardness (not all grade 5 or grade 8 bolts are equal); tensile strength validation of said fasteners, cut versus rolled threads; type of coating on fastener (e.g. phosphate/oil, black oxide, plating) and well a WHOLE bunch of other technically boring stuff only a Design Engineer and Manufacturing Operations Torque Analyst would spend hours grieving and arguing over.

 

As for spark plug torque in the real world, I usually use the common recognized German standard torque of guten-tite.

1 hour ago, Cal said:

And a torque wrench on spark plugs?  Please, I live in the real world! 

12 foot pounds. The SnapOn chap said he has never sold a mini-torque wrench to a mechanics shop.

3 minutes ago, Grandpadave52 said:

As for spark plug torque in the real world, I usually use the common recognized German standard torque of guten-tite.

I thought you were leading us to 'depression angle of the gut against the engine compartment fairing'.

3 minutes ago, Dovetail said:

12 foot pounds. The SnapOn chap said he has never sold a mini-torque wrench to a mechanics shop.

12 ft/lb is pretty difficult to accurately apply with a standard beam, dial or click type torque wrench; far more accurate to convert that to inch pounds (144 in/lb) then use an in/lb torque wrench. Most  top of the line click type torque wrenches are only accurate to +/- 2% and that's measured in a controlled environment. Operator influence greatly impacts the use too.

back in the olden days when i used to have to change spark plugs every 12k miles, they would be hand tight and then "snugged".   did the same with lug nuts.  never had one come loose, fall out or off, or be too tight to remove next time around.

 

can't say the same for stuff done by anyone else.