I hope I’m calling this the right thing....are the disc (hook and loop) sanding pads, the part that goes on the drill, are they all the same?  Seems the ones I have just don’t want to hold the disc onto the pad.  Or, maybe I’m doing something wrong.  It gets frustrating.  Any ideas?

It's possible you've gotten the hook too hot and it's melted a little bit. It's easy to do if a person sands at high speed, don't ask me how I know. Not sure what else could be going on, not that many moving parts to get wrong.

The folks at Woodturners Wonders have some items that may fix you up-

 

 

https://woodturnerswonders.com/collections/sanding-pad-holders/products/sanding-pad-holder-repair-discs

 

https://woodturnerswonders.com/collections/sanding-accessories/products/2-or-3-backer-pads-for-wonder-weave-sanding-discs

47 minutes ago, Steve Krumanaker said:

It's possible you've gotten the hook too hot and it's melted a little bit. It's easy to do if a person sands at high speed, don't ask me how I know. Not sure what else could be going on, not that many moving parts to get wrong.

Do you mean I have the lathe speed to high, or the drill speed to high, or both.

13 minutes ago, lew said:

The folks at Woodturners Wonders have some items that may fix you up-

 

 

https://woodturnerswonders.com/collections/sanding-pad-holders/products/sanding-pad-holder-repair-discs

 

https://woodturnerswonders.com/collections/sanding-accessories/products/2-or-3-backer-pads-for-wonder-weave-sanding-discs

That’s awesome.  Thanks Lew.  I just ordered some.

Most likely you have melted the hooks on pad. You need to use a sacrificial pad called a disc holder protective pad. This saves the original hooks and is easy to just peel off and put a new one on. Also there are different density interface pads to use with higher grits.

 

Lathe speeds should be below 300 preferred and do not run sander at full speed. Now on to sandpaper H&L are not all created equal. Once a pad spins off it is trashed because the loops are stretched. Also all mandrels are not created equal and Skilton at Turning Wood are great, Woodturners Wonders has a great Roloc system that you might also want to look at.

 

Look at this for the pads: https://www.turningwood.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=T&Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=2S

Edited January 25, 20215 yr by Gerald

I might add that pushing hard creates heat too.  Let the sand paper do the work and everything will last longer too.  Worn sand paper doesn't work much better when the pressure is increased. 

1 hour ago, Pauley said:

Do you mean I have the lathe speed to high, or the drill speed to high, or both.

 

Looks like you already have other good advice and a solution. It can be either/or. I like low rpm's on the lathe and higher on the drill motor. Like Dan alluded to, you can also get them to hot by grinding away at a trouble spot with the spindle locked. This problem is also one of the reasons I like a random orbit sander. A drill motor is much more aggressive and will remove material quicker but a random orbit sander is much kinder to sanding disks and sand paper.

14 hours ago, Gerald said:

Most likely you have melted the hooks on pad. You need to use a sacrificial pad called a disc holder protective pad. This saves the original hooks and is easy to just peel off and put a new one on. Also there are different density interface pads to use with higher grits.

 

Lathe speeds should be below 300 preferred and do not run sander at full speed. Now on to sandpaper H&L are not all created equal. Once a pad spins off it is trashed because the loops are stretched. Also all mandrels are not created equal and Skilton at Turning Wood are great, Woodturners Wonders has a great Roloc system that you might also want to look at.

 

Look at this for the pads: https://www.turningwood.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=T&Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=2S

Thanks Gene.  I had the lathe at 600 rpm and my drill at full speed.  Guess I have to slow it down.  Great information.  Thank you.

14 hours ago, HandyDan said:

I might add that pushing hard creates heat too.  Let the sand paper do the work and everything will last longer too.  Worn sand paper doesn't work much better when the pressure is increased. 

Thank you.  I do seem to push a bit harder when I see a little tear out.

12 hours ago, Steve Krumanaker said:

 

Looks like you already have other good advice and a solution. It can be either/or. I like low rpm's on the lathe and higher on the drill motor. Like Dan alluded to, you can also get them to hot by grinding away at a trouble spot with the spindle locked. This problem is also one of the reasons I like a random orbit sander. A drill motor is much more aggressive and will remove material quicker but a random orbit sander is much kinder to sanding disks and sand paper.

Thanks Steve.  Actually, I never thought about a random orbital sander for that.

3 hours ago, Pauley said:

Thanks Steve.  Actually, I never thought about a random orbital sander for that.

 

I normally start sanding on a bowl with 120 grit. There may be an area or two I lock the spindle and sand with 80. I start with a 3" disk on an angle drill go up to 240 grit. I then switch to a dynabrade 3" ROS and go through the grits again up to 320 or 400.

4 hours ago, Steve Krumanaker said:

 

I normally start sanding on a bowl with 120 grit. There may be an area or two I lock the spindle and sand with 80. I start with a 3" disk on an angle drill go up to 240 grit. I then switch to a dynabrade 3" ROS and go through the grits again up to 320 or 400.

Thanks Journeyman.