Before I tried bowls heavily, I started with an oak glue up and couldn't finish it because I was using a face plate at the time and didn't even have the right tools for the job or even a proper chuck for that matter.  Now that I have the proper tools including the chuck I think its down right time to finish this one off.  I had completely forgotten about this one doing a little bit of organizing in the shed/shop I found it tucked away.  So I did a bit of turning on it evened it out and cut a tenon onto it.  I had to straighten it up quite a bit because it was completely way out of whack but it should make for a nice piece in the long run.  Should have a proper hss bowl gouge by Thursday so I should be able to fully hollow this thing out over the weekend.   New bowl blanks arrive tomorrow so I think I'm set for a bit on that. 

I think I’d make a bit more of a dovetail on the tenon

Dovetail.... that I understand but do the dovetail pointing in towards the bottom of the bowl or should I have the dovetail pointing down towards the bottom of the tenon.  I'm getting some much needed sanding done on the outside before I continue with cutting.

Perfect thanks for the diagram Lew, I'll be doing that when I'm finished with the sanding, I'm also going to be trimming down the top of it as well so I can get a better shape.

Still more sanding to do on it yet, but it is starting to get a bit too hot to be outside for me.  Either way, I did the dovetail tenon, I really like that way, the chuck does grip a lot tighter with that fit.   So win win there.  I also mounted the bowl to the chuck on the head stock and started trimming off some excess wood fat and cut it down, the top of the bowl is ALMOST flat but not quite there yet,  just a bit more to trim off.  Sanded at 60 grit currently on the outside so I'll need to do a lot more sanding.  When I started on this one I knew nothing  now knowing what I know, I can make it better.  Now although looking close up my dove tail cuts could use some better work but that will work for now.

Edited July 28, 20205 yr by AndrewB

If you have a straight skew (as opposed to one with a curved cutting edge) you can use it as a scraper to create a flatter dovetail shape. You can also use the EWT detailer to do the same thing. The straight edges of these tools will not produce the concave impression created by the round cutter.

That's what I was using but I guess I didn't get a straight enough edge LOL.  I'll have to get that done for the next one.

Oak or hickory?  Very pretty wood.

Andrew that looks like a Nova G3 chuck. If so it does not require a dovetail for a tenon , only need that for expansion(mortise) mode. Now more on dovetails and chucks:

      1. the dovetail angle must match the angles of the chuck it fits in and and is a straight line not a curved one.

      2. the mating surface that sits on the top of the jaws must be flat

 

Now in the video he is making a tenon for a chuck with dovetail jaws in the compression mode. If your chuck is a Nova you need a straight tenon.

 

 

 

Here is another and Carl is using a Nova Chuck.

 

Edited July 29, 20205 yr by Gerald

@FIGAtorwood  Its actually oak. I'll be finishing it off today its imperfect but this one is staying here in my house holding misc junk.  @Gerald Thanks sorry I did not see either comment until this morning.  I was wondering why the chuck was always holding fairly straight and tight with out having a dovetail.  That's good to know that it's not required on the Novas.

11 hours ago, Gerald said:

Andrew that looks like a Nova G3 chuck. If so it does not require a dovetail for a tenon , only need that for expansion(mortise) mode. Now more on dovetails and chucks:

      1. the dovetail angle must match the angles of the chuck it fits in and and is a straight line not a curved one.

      2. the mating surface that sits on the top of the jaws must be flat

 

Now in the video he is making a tenon for a chuck with dovetail jaws in the compression mode. If your chuck is a Nova you need a straight tenon.

 

 

 

Here is another and Carl is using a Nova Chuck.

 

@Gerald Thanks for the correction.

 

Ill be finished with this project completely before the end of the day, just putting finish on the bottom at the moment.

For me this one is finished....

Nicely done!

That different board stands out nicely. Looks like a keeper.

 I don't mind turning wet oak but hate to deal with the stuff dry.

By the way if you every get any wet be sure to clean and oil bedways and tools. The tannin will darken steel before you get the turning done and turn to rust in 6-8 hours.

I've started to notice that its getting darker already LOL..  OOOOPS I'm gonna have to spend some good amount of time cleaning this.