For Chips and Dip maybe? I am not sure yet....

[AndrewB]

So far so good really enjoying Myrtle wood for turning.  It turns even better than poplar.  So I got some of these small blanks as I said from Rockler to do small projects so far I've had pretty good luck with shopping with them.  A bit on the expensive side but yes so far good to order from.  Had zero issues.  Now with this project the problem I keep running into is chisels catching on the side.  I've still got a touch of refining to do on the outside but I wanted to get a start on the hollowing to see how thick or thin I wanted the project.  But So far its turning out.  I went the mortise route and cut it out of the bottom fit it to the chuck like a dream.  I flipped it around on the chuck and linking up the jacobs chuck.  That thing worked wonderfully.  Glad you guys talked me into gettin it.  Effeminately worth the 22 some odd bucks.  Also received my pend jaw set still waiting on my big bowl jaws to get here I wound up going with the nova cole jaws.  a bit more expensive but I'm sure they will be better off in the long run.

[lew]

19 minutes ago, AndrewB said:

Now with this project the problem I keep running into is chisels catching on the side

If it's the carbide cutter, are you keeping the cutter edge at the vertical centerline of the head/tail stock. If the cutter rides too high or low, it might catch. Also, the negative rake cutters hardly ever catch.

 

When I hollow with my carbide cutters, I work from the outside to the center. Taking the same amount off from the edge to the center. I keep the position of the tool mostly parallel to the lathe bed for the entire cut.

Edited July 8, 2020 by lew

[AndrewB]

Sorry but negative rake cutter? 

Edited July 8, 2020 by AndrewB

[lew]

2 minutes ago, AndrewB said:

Sorry but negative rake cutter? 

Perhaps a little less pressure against the wood.

[AndrewB]

Yea I just had to look up on the negative rakes.  I'm going to order a set of negative rake tips that might work better for me.  I just need to figure out the size of what I need for the easy start tools.  They seem smaller than normal so I'm just trying to figure out what I need.  Not having much luck.

 

Edited July 8, 2020 by AndrewB

[lew]

Made one of these from a piece of walnut- Cheese and chips

[AndrewB]

Nice @lew  I like it I think the one I'm doing is more for dip rather than chips LOL.  Seems all my family gatherings everybody just eats them out of the bag.

[lew]

1 minute ago, AndrewB said:

Yea I just had to look up on the negative rakes.  I'm going to order a set of negative rake tips that might work better for me.  I just need to figure out the size of what I need for the easy start tools.  They seem smaller than normal so I'm just trying to figure out what I need.  Not having much luck.

 

There should be an inscribed number on the shaft of the Easy Wood Tools. Somethin like CiXX.

 

If not, the Finisher comes equipped with standard cutter Ci3 (round), and a hex key. Optional carbide cutter sold separately is the Ci3-NR (negative rake).; The rougher comes equipped with standard cutter Ci2-SQ, and a hex key. Optional carbide cutters sold separately include the Ci2-R2 (radius) and the Ci2-R2-NR (negative rake).  The Detailer comes equipped with standard cutter Ci4 (diamond), and a hex key. Optional carbide cutter sold separately is the Ci4-NR (negative rake).  

[AndrewB]

Done negative rake cutters ordered I purchased them directly through Easy Wood Tools website.  Not a fan of the paypal check out on there but that should hopefully help me with not having as many catches as I should be.  I'm hoping they ship quickly. So I'll have to wait for those to get here to continue hollowing out the dip jar.  from my invoice I see 2 to 5 business days so that's not bad coming from the east coast.  Which is understandable.  Speaking of this project would there be any particular finishes or varnishes I should pick up while I'm in the shopping mood for the myrtle wood in particular?  I know different varnishes and finished go good with different types of woods depending on how dark or how light they are.

[lew]

Dips will be partially liquid so I think you'll need a film type finish to prevent it from soaking into the wood. I Myrtle is porous so the open grain will need a sealer.

 

Well cured poly should be OK or even something like Alumilite resin for the inside. 

 

https://www.wood-database.com/myrtle/

Edited July 8, 2020 by lew

[AndrewB]

Okay I'll definitely have to order some I wouldn't have to put that stuff in a pressure pot right? Correct me if I'm wrong but will it work just like a regular epoxy that you would use for say gluing up a couple of knife scales?

[AndrewB]

I'm on the fence on these two items

https://www.amazon.com/Clear-Epoxy-Resin-Crystal-Kit/dp/B08233BV5W/ref=sr_1_17?dchild=1&keywords=Well+Cured+Poly+sealers&qid=1594247659&sr=8-17

 

https://www.amazon.com/Alumilite-Amazing-Clear-Cast-16/dp/B00CVYNQ4U/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=Alumlite+resin&qid=1594247752&sr=8-4

 

These are the two Items I'm going back and forth over not sure which one would be  better to use.  I don't want to have to put something into a pressure pot for this.  Seeing that I do not own a pressure pot yet lol.

 

 

[lew]

I think either would work. I'm only familiar with Alumilite. Alumilite requires the wood to be free of moisture.

 

For this particular application, my opinion is that no pressure pot would be required as you are only creating a surface finish. You would need some method to keep the mixture from settling in one place until it cured. 

[AndrewB]

I'll have to watch some youtube videos on how to do this over the next couple of days and get familiar with it.  So I don't mess it up too bad LOL.

[Gerald]

In regards to catches with carbide probably like Lew said you are either raising the tool above level or turning the cutter too high . Don't know about EWT but with a Hunter if you turn the cutter too far past about 45 degrees you get a big wakeup call.

 

Now about negative rake cutters. Negative rake is a slow cutting tool and are best for finishing. Regular cutters will give faster results. I cannot see any advantage in hollowing for using neg rake. @lew have you seen any advantage in hollowing with neg rake?

[FlGatorwood]

I, too, wondered about the height of the tool rest.  I have no experience with carbide tips, but with the old standards of riding the bevels of the gouges and skews.  I have marked with a Sharpie on the tool rest post where it is at the center of the axis.  Then I have marked 1/16ths on the post above and below center of axis.  It's a quick adjustment by looking at the marks.  I think Gerald put his finger right on it about the type of rake to use.  

[lew]

12 hours ago, Gerald said:

@lew have you seen any advantage in hollowing with neg rake?

The Easy Wood #2 and #3 hollowers, with negative rake cutters, cut smoother and with less catches than with their standard cutters. As you pointed out, they are less aggressive and cut slower. I use their standard cutter on the #1 hollower, most of the time.  I find myself using the #1 hollower for all sorts of cuts besides just hollowing.

[Gerald]

1 hour ago, lew said:

The Easy Wood #2 and #3 hollowers, with negative rake cutters, cut smoother and with less catches than with their standard cutters. As you pointed out, they are less aggressive and cut slower. I use their standard cutter on the #1 hollower, most of the time.  I find myself using the #1 hollower for all sorts of cuts besides just hollowing.

Just a FYI I use Hunter as you know a friend uses Easy wood. He had one with the neg rake and I had a Hunter #4 and I could get a better finish with the hunter than the EWT. Maybe not definitive but that was my test.

 

Another I compared was the Clewes Mate and the Hunter Viceroy. Now these are hollowing tolls and the Hunter gave better results and easier to use. Another member who owns the Clewes tried the same test with same preference.

[AndrewB]

I'll have to look into those at some point.  Thanks.