Now that I have a 10x12 empty room to use for finishing work I decided to build a small bench to do the finishing on, and then put in a drying rack.  Not wanting to take up alot of space I went with 24 inches x 36 inches for footprint and 32 inches high.  No wheels, I can always revisit this if I want later.  The frame is easily several times heavier than needed but I have a tendency to overbuild or over load a bench so more is better in this regard.

 

Progress so far is a completed frame, sanded and ready for some finish.  The top and shelf are currently getting edge banding with some pine that will take a couple of days to get all glued and sanded down then finished as well.  Borrowing a idea from @lew and will add a removeable lazy susan 24 inches by 24 inches.  Tried a mock up out doing last project and liked how that worked out.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

I notice you use bolts instead of screws. Do you have an oversupply? Are you using glue on these joints or planning for future disassembly?

 

I like to use screw and glue to make a very strong joint unless it is a jig or something temporary.

I’d like to rebuild mine and make the top a torsion type top. Over the years the plywood has bowed. That makes it difficult to get square/plumb/flat assemblies. Only thing I worry about is the increased weight and being able to move it by myself.  

2 minutes ago, Gerald said:

Do you have an oversupply?

Yes, got a case of 4 inch long 1/4 x 20 bolts from a van I cleaned out.  And another almost full case of nutserts 1/4 x 20.  Will take back apart for finish work then reassemble.  Being that I always seem to come up with some change I rarely use glue on such work.  Now the edge banding will be biscuits and glue.  No nails or screws.  

 

4 minutes ago, lew said:

I’d like to rebuild mine and make the top a torsion type top.

How far apart are the cross braces?  On this one I am 16 1/2 inches between braces and 20 1/2 inches front to back.  Maybe I should add two more and make the distance even less?  Plenty of 2x4's left easy enough to add.  

 

I thought about gluing up a bunch of 2x4's and then use a hand plane for a solid flat top.  The pins in my right wrist and arm asked me what was I thinking?  Then to drive home the point started vibrating in revolt.  

With the length and width you have, Unless you plan to work on a Humvee on it, should never sag

Yep, I was thinking the same thing Gerald was

9 hours ago, Gunny said:

How far apart are the cross braces?

Because of the available space, I have to set the "swivel thing" on a couple of saw horses. Currently the "thing" is just 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood separated by a lazy susan bearing. The "top" is about 3' x 4' and the bottom is slightly smaller. Either I'm getting weaker or the "thing" is gaining weight as it seems to be getting heavier over the years.

 

I have thought about going to the Borg and seeing if they have a damaged hollow core interior door I could adapt for the top. Not sure how well that would work. 

Too late for you, but here is a finishing table that I use.  It is very handy for large pieces or a lot of smaller pieces because you can swivel around.  It knocks down easily and can just stack along a wall if you need the room.
 

 

1 hour ago, kmealy said:

Too late for you, but here is a finishing table that I use.  It is very handy for large pieces or a lot of smaller pieces because you can swivel around.  It knocks down easily and can just stack along a wall if you need the room.
 

 

I remembered this thread. 😁 Working on a design a bit smaller but same idea for larger items. Since those are rare I decided to go with this small 2x3 which I will use regularly.  Then a larger 4x6 like yours.  Same idea with a drying rack.   Something I can fold up easily.  My goal is to be able to walk around without doing the obstacle course routine.

I'll be doing something similar to that but that will probably happen next month or in August I'll have a nice L shaped bench and a couple of benches for lathes to sit up on and of course more than likely a small finishing bench like that one.  Should work out in the  space I have planned out for hopefully.

Spent last two nights gluing edge banding to the top and bottom.  That done I planed the edges and tops flat, rounded over all the sharp edges and light sanding of all parts.  Bottom had 4 cut outs to be made for the legs.  Top was easier to do, just test fit and it was done.  Took a picture, marked the legs and such so I know what goes where and then started staining everything.  Be a few nights before this gets put back together.  Top and bottom will be screwed in from the underside, already predrilled pocket holes for this. 

 

 

 

Lookin' Good!

Looking nice...

Nice, sturdy table/ bench, Gunny. Is Suzy going to be round or square? 

3 hours ago, Gene Howe said:

Nice, sturdy table/ bench, Gunny. Is Suzy going to be round or square? 

Both applications have pros and cons. I suspect best overall will be sending. Fits more applications. 

 

Any suggestions??

1 hour ago, Gunny said:

Both applications have pros and cons. I suspect best overall will be sending. Fits more applications. 

 

Any suggestions??

Sending????

Sqareish with rounded corners, maybe.

31 minutes ago, Gene Howe said:

Sending????

Sqareish with rounded corners, maybe.

I had considered a hexagon.  Kind of a merge of the pros of the two.

The utility of a hexagon over just round wouldn't be much. Maybe octagon? Were you going bigger than your table width...the narrowest dimension? 

2 hours ago, Gene Howe said:

The utility of a hexagon over just round wouldn't be much. Maybe octagon? Were you going bigger than your table width...the narrowest dimension? 

I was planning on going 24 inch square.  The shortest width of table.

 

Also plan on making it removable.  Using magnets.

 

I built a 24" round one out of 3/4" solid red oak for our dining table. It's the two layer type. It probably weighs close to 15 lb. Don't need no magnets for that!