Ok...photo edit is screwed up, can not "rename"  or delete....so...if nobody minds

 

Metal working was done after the Bishop Jigs were done and moved off to the side...out of the path of flying metal chips...

 

Stock Rest/ Holders....those flat bars and the bolts with them...bars were cut to length...now they need a hole, drilled and tapped

Was one of those days.  First drill bit was...DULL.  Tap wrench was MIA. and a pair of visegrips barely worked as a tap wrench...Found a sharp drill bit, amazing how a sharp drill bit goes through steel...needed a better way to turn the tap ..

Figured that Stanley 6" sweep brace should do the job...little bit of light oil helps.   Old Tappett wtench happened to be the right size to spin the bolts down TIGHT.

The other day, tried 3 hacksaws, everyone was dull.  Picked up some new blades....place one in the old hacksaw frame...

When you buy a 12" long blade, you are expected to USE the entire blade you paid for.  Goal here was to remove 99% of the threaded part of each bolt...grinder then will "polish" what is left until it is flush with the bottom of the bar.    Then come back and remove the hex head of the bolt.   then polish the top of the shank and do a slight round-over....wire wheel to clean the mess up..

Finished parts..Now just need to cut 2 dados, for these two to slide in....top of the bar needs to be flush with the top of the deck.  Maybe tomorrow?

 

Parts are on the way..may get this thing up and running, the day after the mail arrives...

Stay tuned

Well, now that I don't need the tap wrench...guess what arrived.

Hmm...got some toys from the shop...

Wound up just  using the knife (new blade !) and a chisel....saw was not quite up to the job..

Chop & pare....Until the stock rest fit..

Then move to the other end, and repeat...

Even has a place for sawdust to go....Need to stain the new deck...doubt IF it gets any varnish...

Stay tuned..

 

Those stock rests stow away in the back...just slide them to the back and rotate.

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Out of the way too.   This box will cut up to 60 degrees on either side of zero ( 90 degrees)

2 coats, so far, trying to even the stain out on this clear Pine...doubt if it will get any varnish...

Numbers have bee shined up, so I can read them better  

According to the etch on this saw...this is the correct saw for this Mitre Box.   5" x 28" 

Has the older, 3 bolt style of handle....which changed to a 4 bolt design about 1928 or so...

Box of needed parts will arrive here next Tuesday's mail....might just have this one done before Thursday?

Stay tuned..

Ok, somehow getting that rename thing done...box showed up a day early...

Bolts to assemble the tops...then promptly stripped the thumbscrews..

 

New block for the front guide,and..

And the back guide, bolts for the brass depth stops, and the correct bolts for the stock rest clamps..hole is for a nail, to loose a stuck bolt...

Cross bar installed...raise the saw up, and the catches will hold it there.  had to align the guides, to allow the saw to slide easily...King bolt was loose, torqued it in place.  Release the catch in front, tilt of the saw then hits the back release....

I just eyeballed the depth stop, to keep the saw just a hair higher than the deck.. tried to swing to the 45 degree setting ( No. 4 on the dial)

Nice and smooth, and the lock works...test cut, at 90 degrees?

Was the only scrap handy...4 trips through with the saw...square all around cut. 

I think this is just about done?    Have to re-thread two holes, where I stripped out the thumbscrews on top of the guides...might as well thread the cross bar, as well.   Now..need a spot to set this mitre box up...

Some fine refurb work Steven!!

Thank you, Steven, for this journey and your wonderful ability to refurbish this beautiful woodworking machine.  This is a fabulous machine.  I have seen them in pictures and they always seemed so much better than what was available in the 1960's and 1970's.  

Great job, Steve. 

The saw looks wonderful, awesome job and patience Steve! I love the design and styling on this miter system.

There was one issue....those thumbscrews on the tops of the guide posts

Were the wrong bolts ( fit a Stanley 45 better) and were stripping threads...went out and bought new, slightly bigger bolts..

Along with a 10-24 tap and drill set.  The cross bar had three holes, none were tapped.    Tried my smaller tap wrench, again..

Was too small, again, I did have the larger wrench handy..

Cast iron parts, didn't need any oil on the tap...ran the drill bit through the cross bar, and then tapped each hole..

Steel bar needed oil on the tap.   then a test fit...

Thumbscrews merely have to hold the bar in place, between them.   Mounting hole for the bolts to install the cross bar needed chased, to clean the threads out..

Wire wheel to clean the bolts up, too.   Front guide post, saw latched up

And the rear post.   bar on this end has one hole.   other end has 2, because there are 2 places on the swing arm for the saw guide to go.

So you can set the guide closer to the work, and get more of the saw into the work. 

I think that should do it, for this Mitre Box...added a drop of oil into the guides where the saw slides through...others added wax ( gets gummed up, though)

Stay tuned...have another Mitre Box to "update"  

Stanley #2246A needs a new deck..

ya think?   This has different style stock rests, that stow away in front..

2 more dados to do..

Roh-kay....New deck is done...for the Stanley No. 2246A mitre box.....out of Poplar, this time..

Used the old deck to mark out the new deck....dados took a bit of fitting, to get them deep enough...

And allow the stock rests to rotate up..

Used the Stanley 358 mitre box to cut the walls of the dados....then a chisel or three to clean them out...old deck has the OEM orange coloured stain..."Pumpkin Pine"?   May try to match that....

This may be a "small" Mitre Box....but it is dang heavy, even without the saw.   Uses a 4" x 26" backsaw...once the Dungeon dries out a bit, this is headed back to the shop...has it's own stand down there.