11 hours ago, Artie said:

I wish you luck in finding the information you seek. 

Thank you Artie, appears to be not many if any folks here that use oil stones based on the replies, all the more reason for me to dig it all up and report back here, I look at this as an educational opportunity for all of us, and I'll be at the tip of the spear!

1 hour ago, Gene Howe said:

Wish I could help, John. I use diamond plates and water. 

Thanks Gene, it's on me now, I'll report back on my findings, was hoping we could keep it here in our little community but if I must go out to learn, out I shall go!

As long as you're going to forsake us, you might find this of interest.

 

Thanks Gene, what a neat man I enjoyed the video thanks!

I have watched several videos by now regarding oil stones and they seem very convenient for honing and even re-establishing a form on the edge. But to be able to whip out the oil stone during working a board, put a dab of oil on it, then hit the blade a dozen strokes and strop it, you are back to work in minutes.

The water stones require a little more setup, if you dry store your stones like some do, you have to soak em for about 10 to 15 minutes before use, if you store them in water like I do then it's not bad but you still have the mess and clean up of which it does not appear you would have with oil stones.

 

This is a video I found fun to watch just to demonstrate what little effort it really takes to hone your iron during work time.

Oh ya, by the way, you all forsaked yourselves!

 

Yep, I use the same process with different materials. I don't shine my blades or chisels, though. 

The one thing I need to keep in mind when shopping for oil stones is to purchase stones that can handle the newer steels, the O1 and A2 types, researching and learning!

1 hour ago, John Morris said:

The one thing I need to keep in mind when shopping for oil stones is to purchase stones that can handle the newer steels, the O1 and A2 types, researching and learning!

Hmmm....Diamonds don't care.

3 hours ago, John Morris said:

O1 and A2 types

Don't forget the PM-V11 blades from Lee Valley.  I think that if a stone can handle the A2 steel, it will do just fine with the PM-V11, but it might bear some research, just in case.

5 minutes ago, PostalTom said:

I think that if a stone can handle the A2 steel, it will do just fine with the PM-V11,

not well...

the PM-V11's are tough on regular stones...

it more than likely take silicone carbide if you want any kind of life to the stone..

 

 

Back in the day,when I DID hand sharpen, I used the Norton Silicon Carbide and 3 and one oil, until I grew older and wiser and went to power sharpening. In those days you were graded on your skill level by how well you sharpened hand tools. mainly because there were no power alternatives, I was always near the bottom of the skill pile. But after the power systems arrived on the scene, I made it up from D- to C-  .

Herb

C- is well above my F- without a guide and diamond plates. Had a Worksharp. It was too complicated. A variable speed grinder and a couple of white wheels is less complicated. But, only to take out the nicks. 

@John Morris,

I thought you were going back to the old ways. 

Just find a good hard rock and rub away. 

35 minutes ago, Larry Buskirk said:

@John Morris,

I thought you were going back to the old ways. 

Just find a good hard rock and rub away. 

Precisely why I want the oil stones! Just a couple Arkansas rocks, and I'm on my way!

On 4/21/2019 at 4:13 PM, Stick486 said:

the PM-V11's are tough on regular stones...

it more than likely take silicone carbide if you want any kind of life to the stone..

This is off of the Norton Abrasives web site.  

 

 

"The fastest cutting oil stones are made of Silicon Carbide, with our Crystolon Stones representing this category offering. These stones are the best choice for quick work when the speed of sharpening is more important than the fineness of the cutting edge. It is common practice to use a Crystolon stone for initial coarse grit sharpening before moving on to an India stone and finishing with an Arkansas stone. These stones are also labeled fine, medium, and coarse and are dark gray in color."

@John Morris, you might be interested in this.  If the link works.

 

https://commonwoodworking.com/how-to-make-a-sharpening-stones-holder/?utm_source=ConvertKit&utm_medium=Email/

3 hours ago, PostalTom said:

@John Morris, you might be interested in this.  If the link works.

https://commonwoodworking.com/how-to-make-a-sharpening-stones-holder/?utm_source=ConvertKit&utm_medium=Email/

Tom i really liked that holder, thanks so much for finding that one, it would apply to both diamond and oil stones, the only thing I may not do with oil stones is to adhere it to the surface, I'd probably let it rest. Just my gut instinct, but the rest of the setup looks fantastic!

whatever you do, never, never, ever drop or knock one to the floor or you'll be an unhappy camper.