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Found 16 results

  1. I was out in the shop sharpening a few of my plane blades with my water stones, and since my shop has changed dramatically (much smaller), I find that the usual location I used to sharpen my blades is gone of course, along with my little bench I used ( I gave it away to make room for other things) and I figured I could just work off my existing workbench. The problem with that is the slurry and sledge tends to splatter and eventually the workbench gets wet and etc etc etc and it's just become a mess to maintain any type of area for a water stone station space. I did a little research and found that oil stones actually provide a cleaner environment (less messy) than their waterstone relatives. Of course there are pros and cons for both methods of sharpening, but I want to give oil stones a try and a strop. I also understand that they are more receptive to free hand sharpening which is what I like to do, and they maintain a very flat surface with free handing. I have a Washita Stone that I picked up a couple years ago, I believe it's soft grade for prelim honing, so I'd need Hard Arkansas? Not all oil stones are created equal either, some will sharpen the harder steels of today, O1 and A2 but others are only good with the older steels that may be found in the venerable Stanley's. I think Steven Newman uses oil, any suggestions from Steve would be appreciated, and any suggestions and or personal experience from anyone is appreciated. My questions: What grades of oil stones do I need? What type of oil do I need? What type of compound do I use for stropping? Any specific type of leather or is an old belt fine? Please relate your experiences with me here in this topic, and please do not link me to outside websites or charts, there is a ton of information out there on this subject, but I want to hear from you guys. not the rest of the world. Thanks a ton in advance!
  2. I am finishing a pine project and the client likes the look of mineral oil over the pine. Then they want a satin finish poly. I am used to BLO not mineral oil. How long does it take mineral oill to cure so that it can be top coated successfully?
  3. Smallpatch

    Red birds

    No where near done yet so these colors will change as I squirt on the finishing touches.. I have also decided the best possible place for viewing would be in a very dark surrounding..like with no flashlight then you see nothing. The snow is the only place that has any clear over the stains so no telling what will show up next.. Nothing glued down yet so I still got time to play around with it.. For sure the frame will turn green..
  4. In found this can of Mary Carter Linseed Oil in an old building we were going through the other day. Made by Mary Carter Paint Co. Any of you know anything about Mary Carter Paint Co without Googling it? The Company was the successor of a company started in 1908. In 1958 the company that would be Mary Carter paint started and soon bought out several of it's competitors. Victor Paint Company in 1962 and Atlantic Paint Company in 1963. Where it really turns interesting is there move into resorts. http://www.fundinguniverse.com/company-histories/resorts-international-inc-history/ http://www.sptimes.com/News/073000/Business/From_paints_to_Paradi.shtml And this one is really interesting. http://soundproofsuite1850.blogspot.com/2008/01/homework-assignments-on-mary-carter.html You just never know what story a can might tell.
  5. Characteristics summary. Remember, pick the characteristics you want and live with the rest of what you get. Product Application Curing Odor Protection Repairability Oil Cloth Slow Some Low 1 Moderate Oil-varnish Cloth Slow Some Some 3 Moderate Varnish Cloth, brush Slow Some High 9 Low Wax Cloth Fast Low Low 0 Moderate Shellac Cloth, brush, Fast Some Moderate 6 High or Spray Lacquer Brush, spray Fast High Moderately high 8 High Waterborne Brush, spray Fast Low Moderately high 8 Moderate -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Stain Cloth, brush, Fast to Moderate* n/a n/a or spray* slow* Glaze Cloth, brush Slow Low 0 n/a Toner Spray Fast* Some to high* 5-8 * moderate * depending upon medium
  6. Artie

    Shamrock

    Hi, my name is Artie, and I’m new here (maybe 2 months) and new to woodworking. This is my first post on the finishing forum. I just made my first scroll saw project (that story is on the scrolling forum LOL). I made a shamrock, with it being Saint Patricks Day, and all. It is 3/8 Baltic Birch from Woodcraft. Do I sand with a fine sand paper (grade/number?) ? Or as I read somewhere else, do I not sand because the plus are so thin on 3/8? Prime with an interior primer, and then paint with an interior house paint? Latex? Oil based? I was thinking a Kelly Green, semi-gloss. Any thoughts/opinions/advice anyone can throw my way is appreciated. Thank you All, Artie
  7. My son bought a house and the wood accents (stair rail, upper rail, riser rail in kitchen ) are finished in Cabots Mahogany Flame on mahogany wood. Looks great but My question is that I can only find one that says it is outdoor. Is there another or does it matter?
  8. From the album: coffee table

    Live edge American cherry coffee table. Top measures 50" long and 24" wide and stands 21" tall. Danish oil and 2 coats of wipe on poly to top surface for added protection. Legs are made from the cutoffs from canting some of the logs. I try to use as much of the tree as I can for conservation and to add some interest in my work. The legs are the corner blocks for the skirt and can not be removed and , I may add a lower shelf after I talk to the person it is being made for.
  9. 2 small lap top tables or end tables I made for a close friend that has brought me a lot or rough sawn cherry. They are solid cherry with 1/4 sawn cherry center panels. Tungoil oil finish the tops also have 2 coats of wipe on poly for added protection. The small kitchen table is made of live edge cherry. The top is only 48 inches long and is 25 1/2 inches at its widest point and 30 inches tall. Again tungoil followed by 2 coats of wipe on poly. Took a bit of looking through my stock to find the right looking pcs for the leg shape I wanted.
  10. TGIF : “Oil” finishes July 11, 2017 This week we explore “Oil Finishes,” that I put in quotes because it is probably one of the most mis-labeled* and myth-filled types of finishes. What is an oil finish? There are two true oil finishes in common use, linseed (oil extracted from the seeds of the flax plant) and tung oil (oil extracted from a nut from China). Raw linseed oil, while available, is seldom useful because it takes weeks to cure. Boiled linseed oil, sometimes called BLO (that is not boiled*), sometimes called BLO, but contains metallic driers that help it cure faster, in days. Tung oil has a mystique about it (probably due to promotional literature*). It is more difficult to use, takes more days to dry between coats (and if you don’t, you have to strip and start over), needs sanding between coats, and requires five to seven coats. In my opinion, there’s little reason to use it. “Oil Finishes” cure just like varnish – they absorb oxygen and cross link. There are also a handful of "polymerized oils" -- those heated in an oxygen free environment. This starts the polymerization and these can resemble varnishes. The other “Oil Finishes” Unless it’s really labeled 100% tung oil or boiled linseed oil, you are getting one of the oil look-alikes* One type is simply the wiping (thinned) varnish discussed in the last topic. The other type is an oil-varnish blend. Oil and (oil-based) varnishes are quite miscible and manufacturers, or you, can combine them in any proportion, and thin then with mineral spirits to any amount. You will find these labeled things like Tung Oil Finish*, Danish Oil*, Teak Oil*, <namebrand>-Oil*, or just about anything. Waterlox is a fine product, but if you read through the dozens of web pages, they will usually refer to it to as “tung oil finish.” In one obscure spot, it does confess, “what we make is a varnish.”(1) You can buy an oil-varnish finish, and never be quite sure what you’re getting. Or you can mix your own. The time-honored “secret recipe” is equal parts varnish, BLO, and mineral spirts. You can also buy an off-the-shelf product and change its proportions by adding varnish, BLO, or mineral spirits in any proportion. For example, you can fortify up a Watco Danish Oil by adding some varnish. The higher proportion of varnish, the more you will get a bit of a film finish. (this is what I did when I was in my novice, confused, deer-in-the-headlights, starting out phase of finishing) So, how do you tell what you have? Linseed and (100%) tung oil are generally labeled correctly. It if contains “resins” or thinners like mineral spirits, aliphatic hydrocarbons*, etc., it’s probably one of the imposters. A good way to tell is to put a puddle on some smooth surface like a piece of glass. You will see one of three results: The finish remains soft and lots of wrinkles - it’s an oil The finish is smooth and hard – it’s a wiping varnish The finish is smooth in the middle and wrinkled at the edges – it’s an oil-varnish blend and the more wrinkles the higher proportion of oil. Last I checked (and it’s undergone many owners, mergers and acquisitions along the years), Watco Danish Oil was approximately. (from the MSDS) 6/9 (=2/3) mineral spirits or other evaporating thinners providing nothing to the final finish 2/9 BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil) 1/9 Varnish (trace amounts of coloring if not in the natural color) So it’s not very heavy in the varnish component and heavy in the thinners. Below are some samples. Note that the BLO is still soft after 7 years of being on this glass. How to apply Applying an oil or oil-varnish finish is dead easy. Get it on with rag or brush, let set up for a few minutes and wipe off the excess. The more varnish in the oil-varnish blend, the faster it will tack up and the sooner you need to wipe. Don’t leave much on the surface – this is not designed to be a film-forming finish, and if you leave too much, you’ll just end up with a soft and wrinkly finish like shown in the slide above (2). On porous woods, like oak, you may experience “bleed back” where as the finish cures it bubbles back out of the pores. The cure for this is to wipe for every few hours after the initial wipe. And apply a bit less the next coat. Provide the finish in an area with fresh air and room temperature. Between coats, you can sand with a fine (600 grit) wet or dry sandpaper to smooth the surface, then apply the next coat as the first. Usually, 3-4 coats are plenty. These are good finishes if you are doing a quick project with a child. It is very important that you take the rags you use outside and spread out to dry. The oil in oil finishes will heat as they cure, and the more heat the faster they cure, creating a chain reaction of more and more heat to the point where they can spontaneously combust, starting a fire. The result The result should be a smooth, in the wood finish. While it looks nice, it has minimal protection against water and water vapor presentation (3). It will also not be very protective against dirt and abrasion. So it would be fine for a product that does not need a lot of protection – bookshelves, artwork, boxes, etc. Not so good for dining tables with kids, handrails, chair arms. Some woods will darken/amber with an oil finish. Here is a “Keeping box” I made a few years ago. Two coats of BLO, four afternoons on the back patio and I had 10 years of patina in a week. Top coated with a couple of coats of blond shellac for sheen and protection. After a few years, an oil finish may start to look dull. Easy enough to fix – clean, lightly sand if you wish, and apply another coat. This can also conceal some superficial scratches. More reading (4-7) References and notes (1) https://waterlox.com/project-help/guide?id=55d7f899-9e95-430b-9788-6ee59ed27e30&q= (2) Tales from the repair guy: A few years ago, I got a call to refinish some teak furniture that the owner had religiously “teak oiled” annually. The result was a soft, sticky mess, full of link, hair and fingerprints. Not too surprising, she built up a thick coat of soft oil (probably linseed). I stripped and refinished it. When I returned it, she asked how often she needed to re-apply the teak oil. I told her, “Never again.” (3) USFPL Wood Handbook, Chapter 16: Finishing of Wood, https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/products/publications/several_pubs.php?grouping_id=100 (4) http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/finishing/oil-finishes-their-history-and-use (5) http://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/finishes/choosing-best-wood-finish (6) http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/flexner-on-finishing-blog/comparing-linseed-oil-and-tung-oil (7) http://www.popularwoodworking.com/articleindex/teak-oil-oil-doesnt-exist
  11. TGIF : “Oil” finishes July 11, 2017 This week we explore “Oil Finishes,” that I put in quotes because it is probably one of the most mis-labeled* and myth-filled types of finishes. What is an oil finish? There are two true oil finishes in common use, linseed (oil extracted from the seeds of the flax plant) and tung oil (oil extracted from a nut from China). Raw linseed oil, while available, is seldom useful because it takes weeks to cure. Boiled linseed oil, sometimes called BLO (that is not boiled*), sometimes called BLO, but contains metallic driers that help it cure faster, in days. Tung oil has a mystique about it (probably due to promotional literature*). It is more difficult to use, takes more days to dry between coats (and if you don’t, you have to strip and start over), needs sanding between coats, and requires five to seven coats. In my opinion, there’s little reason to use it. “Oil Finishes” cure just like varnish – they absorb oxygen and cross link. There are also a handful of "polymerized oils" -- those heated in an oxygen free environment. This starts the polymerization and these can resemble varnishes. The other “Oil Finishes” Unless it’s really labeled 100% tung oil or boiled linseed oil, you are getting one of the oil look-alikes* One type is simply the wiping (thinned) varnish discussed in the last topic. The other type is an oil-varnish blend. Oil and (oil-based) varnishes are quite miscible and manufacturers, or you, can combine them in any proportion, and thin then with mineral spirits to any amount. You will find these labeled things like Tung Oil Finish*, Danish Oil*, Teak Oil*, <namebrand>-Oil*, or just about anything. Waterlox is a fine product, but if you read through the dozens of web pages, they will usually refer to it to as “tung oil finish.” In one obscure spot, it does confess, “what we make is a varnish.”(1) You can buy an oil-varnish finish, and never be quite sure what you’re getting. Or you can mix your own. The time-honored “secret recipe” is equal parts varnish, BLO, and mineral spirts. You can also buy an off-the-shelf product and change its proportions by adding varnish, BLO, or mineral spirits in any proportion. For example, you can fortify up a Watco Danish Oil by adding some varnish. The higher proportion of varnish, the more you will get a bit of a film finish. (this is what I did when I was in my novice, confused, deer-in-the-headlights, starting out phase of finishing) So, how do you tell what you have? Linseed and (100%) tung oil are generally labeled correctly. It if contains “resins” or thinners like mineral spirits, aliphatic hydrocarbons*, etc., it’s probably one of the imposters. A good way to tell is to put a puddle on some smooth surface like a piece of glass. You will see one of three results: The finish remains soft and lots of wrinkles - it’s an oil The finish is smooth and hard – it’s a wiping varnish The finish is smooth in the middle and wrinkled at the edges – it’s an oil-varnish blend and the more wrinkles the higher proportion of oil. Last I checked (and it’s undergone many owners, mergers and acquisitions along the years), Watco Danish Oil was approximately. (from the MSDS) 6/9 (=2/3) mineral spirits or other evaporating thinners providing nothing to the final finish 2/9 BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil) 1/9 Varnish (trace amounts of coloring if not in the natural color) So it’s not very heavy in the varnish component and heavy in the thinners. Below are some samples. Note that the BLO is still soft after 7 years of being on this glass. How to apply Applying an oil or oil-varnish finish is dead easy. Get it on with rag or brush, let set up for a few minutes and wipe off the excess. The more varnish in the oil-varnish blend, the faster it will tack up and the sooner you need to wipe. Don’t leave much on the surface – this is not designed to be a film-forming finish, and if you leave too much, you’ll just end up with a soft and wrinkly finish like shown in the slide above (2). On porous woods, like oak, you may experience “bleed back” where as the finish cures it bubbles back out of the pores. The cure for this is to wipe for every few hours after the initial wipe. And apply a bit less the next coat. Provide the finish in an area with fresh air and room temperature. Between coats, you can sand with a fine (600 grit) wet or dry sandpaper to smooth the surface, then apply the next coat as the first. Usually, 3-4 coats are plenty. These are good finishes if you are doing a quick project with a child. It is very important that you take the rags you use outside and spread out to dry. The oil in oil finishes will heat as they cure, and the more heat the faster they cure, creating a chain reaction of more and more heat to the point where they can spontaneously combust, starting a fire. The result The result should be a smooth, in the wood finish. While it looks nice, it has minimal protection against water and water vapor presentation (3). It will also not be very protective against dirt and abrasion. So it would be fine for a product that does not need a lot of protection – bookshelves, artwork, boxes, etc. Not so good for dining tables with kids, handrails, chair arms. Some woods will darken/amber with an oil finish. Here is a “Keeping box” I made a few years ago. Two coats of BLO, four afternoons on the back patio and I had 10 years of patina in a week. Top coated with a couple of coats of blond shellac for sheen and protection. After a few years, an oil finish may start to look dull. Easy enough to fix – clean, lightly sand if you wish, and apply another coat. This can also conceal some superficial scratches. More reading (4-7) References and notes (1) https://waterlox.com/project-help/guide?id=55d7f899-9e95-430b-9788-6ee59ed27e30&q= (2) Tales from the repair guy: A few years ago, I got a call to refinish some teak furniture that the owner had religiously “teak oiled” annually. The result was a soft, sticky mess, full of link, hair and fingerprints. Not too surprising, she built up a thick coat of soft oil (probably linseed). I stripped and refinished it. When I returned it, she asked how often she needed to re-apply the teak oil. I told her, “Never again.” (3) USFPL Wood Handbook, Chapter 16: Finishing of Wood, https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/products/publications/several_pubs.php?grouping_id=100 (4) http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/finishing/oil-finishes-their-history-and-use (5) http://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/finishes/choosing-best-wood-finish (6) http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/flexner-on-finishing-blog/comparing-linseed-oil-and-tung-oil (7) http://www.popularwoodworking.com/articleindex/teak-oil-oil-doesnt-exist
  12. Besides the usual Witches Brew, or something from Minwax This is a box made of Cherry. I had a "wash" of "al-kee-haul" on it, to bring out the figure. Need something to keep the figure popping out. Without any finish.. Soo, I need something that does not yellow the wood. Zinsser (sp) make a couple different kinds of shellac, maybe the clear one will do the trick. The other boxes were either Poplar With the Witch's Brew, or Pine with the same stuff... But this Cherry needs a little something different. Witch's Brew? Well, there is this quart can. Started out as a Polyshades Colonial Maple ( meh) since most of it was used on a project, I then poured the last of several small cans of stian into the can. In fact, Ihave no partial cans in the shop. Along the way, BLO was added each time I used a bit out of the can. Along with a pint of Minwax Gloss Poly. Stir well. It is also the finish on that Pine rocker I built. Works great on pine, not too sure about Cherry. Shellac Sanding Sealer?
  13. From the album: Awards for Veterans

    I enlisted some enthusiastic help for finishing the project. My son had a great time, since the finish was a wipe on and wipe off oil, it really didn't matter how sloppy things got.
  14. From the album: Awards for Veterans

    The awards are in the drying lineup.
  15. Courtland

    Walnut Rocker Finish

    From the album: Walnut Rocking Chair

    The grain really pops in these chairs when the first coat of oil is applied.
  16. Well, this is going to be the final installment on this TPW Team Project to build a Cedar Lined Walnut Blanket Chest for my Grand Daughter Nori Piper Worsham due in mid November 2014. Being that I live in Southern California and my son and daughter in law live in Indianapolis, Indiana, building the chest and then getting it out there would require that I either drive it out in the back of my pick up truck, or I pay to ship it out. Neither option was really very good so I called both John Moody and Ron Dudelston because we were all going to be together at John Moody's house along with our wives for 4 days and 3 nights and asked if they would be interested in building this chest together. So John and Ron agreed and in Parts 1 & 2 we got the chest completed and rough sanded at John's house with the exception of the base trim, cleats for the lid, trim for the lid, cedar lining and final finish and Ron and I along with our wives headed back up north to Indiana with the chest in the back of their van. In Part 3 I drove up to Ron's house about an hour north of Indianapolis and we finished the assembly of the chest with Ron making the cleats and trim for the lid as well as doing the cedar lining inside the chest while I made up the base trim and helped Ron do the installation of the top and bottom trim. After that was all done, we carried it out and put the chest in the back seat of my rental car and I headed back to my kids' house in Indianapolis to do the final sanding and putting on the finish. So here is the chest as it was completed at Ron's shop on ThursdayJuly 24th 2014 before we carried it out to my car. In this photo Ron had wiped on some mineral spirits to show off the grain a bit. The open top did not have any mineral spirits on it so it this is what the whole chest looked liked once the mineral spirits evaperated. Once I got the chest back to my kids' house in Indy, Tami and I carried it in and set it in the garage. My kids had just moved into this house the previous Monday so there are boxes all over the house and empty boxes in the garage. Since my son has no tools other than a set Husky Tools from Home Depot that I got him when he was 18, I had to go to Home Depot and pick up a few things to get it done. So $300 later I came home with a small shop vac, random orbital sander, 12v drill/driver and bits, 2 folding saw horses to set the chest on and various finishing supplies, sandpaper and a spray can of shellac. As for the type of finish that I was going use I was limited to doing a wipe on finish. So I stopped by the local Rockler store in Indy and bought a quart of the "Sam Maloof Finish" which is an equal mix of boiled linseed oil, tung oil and polyurethane. For the size of this project I could have purchased the 3 separate items and mixed it myself, but it was cheaper and easier to just buy a can of the Maloof off the shelf. After doing the final sanding from 220-400 grit and getting all the dust off, I sprayed shellac on the underside of the lid to seal it as opposed to putting on the Maloof finish as the oil will cause odors inside the chest. On the outside the chest and lid I wiped on multiple coats of the Maloof finish letting them soak in and then wiping off the excess and then letting it set for 24 hours before doing another coat. So here are the finished photos of the chest made for my Grand Daughter Nori. Being that it is in the garage and the lighting is horrible, the photos do not do justice to the actual finish. The grain is awesome and the dovetails look beautiful! The most important thing is that my daughter in law LOVES IT!! For now the chest will have to sit in the garage for a few weeks as they have to get some painting done and the bedroom set up where it will go. I have to give a BIG THANKS to John Moody and Ron Dudelston for all of their work on this project. I could not have done it with out them and it was pleasure working alongside my fellow woodworkers and friends. This chest will be an heirloom that will stay with my kids and get passed down in the family.
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