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Found 18 results

  1. and https://www.popularwoodworking.com/flexner-on-finishing-blog/comparing-linseed-oil-and-tung-oil/ and https://www.popularwoodworking.com/finishing/oil-finishes-their-history-and-use/
  2. Cutting, shaping, joinery, glue up and assy I can get that. If I mess up I just make another piece. But when all of that is done after maybe 50 hours of work and it is sitting there awaiting finish - I freeze. One mistake here and the entire project can turn into $250 in hard wood and 50 hours into tragedy. Am I mental? This is of course not at all out of the question. Is this typical or is it just me. Spray on - wipe on - brush on. Poly, oil, shellac, varnish, stain, polyshades. Uneven finish, runs, streaks. At times it feels like I am in a zombie movie and all of these issues are out to get
  3. I was out in the shop sharpening a few of my plane blades with my water stones, and since my shop has changed dramatically (much smaller), I find that the usual location I used to sharpen my blades is gone of course, along with my little bench I used ( I gave it away to make room for other things) and I figured I could just work off my existing workbench. The problem with that is the slurry and sledge tends to splatter and eventually the workbench gets wet and etc etc etc and it's just become a mess to maintain any type of area for a water stone station space. I did a little researc
  4. I am finishing a pine project and the client likes the look of mineral oil over the pine. Then they want a satin finish poly. I am used to BLO not mineral oil. How long does it take mineral oill to cure so that it can be top coated successfully?
  5. Smallpatch

    Red birds

    No where near done yet so these colors will change as I squirt on the finishing touches.. I have also decided the best possible place for viewing would be in a very dark surrounding..like with no flashlight then you see nothing. The snow is the only place that has any clear over the stains so no telling what will show up next.. Nothing glued down yet so I still got time to play around with it.. For sure the frame will turn green..
  6. In found this can of Mary Carter Linseed Oil in an old building we were going through the other day. Made by Mary Carter Paint Co. Any of you know anything about Mary Carter Paint Co without Googling it? The Company was the successor of a company started in 1908. In 1958 the company that would be Mary Carter paint started and soon bought out several of it's competitors. Victor Paint Company in 1962 and Atlantic Paint Company in 1963. Where it really turns interesting is there move into resorts. http://www.fundinguniverse.com/company-histories/resorts-internatio
  7. Characteristics summary. Remember, pick the characteristics you want and live with the rest of what you get. Product Application Curing Odor Protection Repairability Oil Cloth Slow Some Low 1 Moderate Oil-varnish Cloth Slow Some Some 3 Moderate Varnish Cloth, brush Slow Some High 9 Low Wax Cloth Fast Low Low 0 Moderate Shellac Cloth, brush, Fast Some Modera
  8. Artie

    Shamrock

    Hi, my name is Artie, and I’m new here (maybe 2 months) and new to woodworking. This is my first post on the finishing forum. I just made my first scroll saw project (that story is on the scrolling forum LOL). I made a shamrock, with it being Saint Patricks Day, and all. It is 3/8 Baltic Birch from Woodcraft. Do I sand with a fine sand paper (grade/number?) ? Or as I read somewhere else, do I not sand because the plus are so thin on 3/8? Prime with an interior primer, and then paint with an interior house paint? Latex? Oil based? I was thinking a Kelly Green, semi-gloss. Any thoughts/opinions
  9. My son bought a house and the wood accents (stair rail, upper rail, riser rail in kitchen ) are finished in Cabots Mahogany Flame on mahogany wood. Looks great but My question is that I can only find one that says it is outdoor. Is there another or does it matter?
  10. From the album: coffee table

    Live edge American cherry coffee table. Top measures 50" long and 24" wide and stands 21" tall. Danish oil and 2 coats of wipe on poly to top surface for added protection. Legs are made from the cutoffs from canting some of the logs. I try to use as much of the tree as I can for conservation and to add some interest in my work. The legs are the corner blocks for the skirt and can not be removed and , I may add a lower shelf after I talk to the person it is being made for.
  11. 2 small lap top tables or end tables I made for a close friend that has brought me a lot or rough sawn cherry. They are solid cherry with 1/4 sawn cherry center panels. Tungoil oil finish the tops also have 2 coats of wipe on poly for added protection. The small kitchen table is made of live edge cherry. The top is only 48 inches long and is 25 1/2 inches at its widest point and 30 inches tall. Again tungoil followed by 2 coats of wipe on poly. Took a bit of looking through my stock to find the right looking pcs for the leg shape I wanted.
  12. TGIF : “Oil” finishes July 11, 2017 This week we explore “Oil Finishes,” that I put in quotes because it is probably one of the most mis-labeled* and myth-filled types of finishes. What is an oil finish? There are two true oil finishes in common use, linseed (oil extracted from the seeds of the flax plant) and tung oil (oil extracted from a nut from China). Raw linseed oil, while available, is seldom useful because it takes weeks to cure. Boiled linseed oil, sometimes called BLO (that is not boiled*), sometimes called BLO, but contains metallic driers that he
  13. TGIF : “Oil” finishes July 11, 2017 This week we explore “Oil Finishes,” that I put in quotes because it is probably one of the most mis-labeled* and myth-filled types of finishes. What is an oil finish? There are two true oil finishes in common use, linseed (oil extracted from the seeds of the flax plant) and tung oil (oil extracted from a nut from China). Raw linseed oil, while available, is seldom useful because it takes weeks to cure. Boiled linseed oil, sometimes called BLO (that is not boiled*), sometimes called BLO, but contains metallic driers that help
  14. Besides the usual Witches Brew, or something from Minwax This is a box made of Cherry. I had a "wash" of "al-kee-haul" on it, to bring out the figure. Need something to keep the figure popping out. Without any finish.. Soo, I need something that does not yellow the wood. Zinsser (sp) make a couple different kinds of shellac, maybe the clear one will do the trick. The other boxes were either Poplar With the Witch's Brew, or Pine with the same stuff... But this Cherry needs a little something different. Witch's Brew? Wel
  15. From the album: Awards for Veterans

    I enlisted some enthusiastic help for finishing the project. My son had a great time, since the finish was a wipe on and wipe off oil, it really didn't matter how sloppy things got.
  16. From the album: Awards for Veterans

    The awards are in the drying lineup.
  17. John Morris

    Walnut Rocker Finish

    From the album: Walnut Rocking Chair

    The grain really pops in these chairs when the first coat of oil is applied.
  18. Well, this is going to be the final installment on this TPW Team Project to build a Cedar Lined Walnut Blanket Chest for my Grand Daughter Nori Piper Worsham due in mid November 2014. Being that I live in Southern California and my son and daughter in law live in Indianapolis, Indiana, building the chest and then getting it out there would require that I either drive it out in the back of my pick up truck, or I pay to ship it out. Neither option was really very good so I called both John Moody and Ron Dudelston because we were all going to be together at John Moody's house along with our wives
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