So I had asked about finishing shop cabinets and so on and I decided that I would finish some of mine starting with the large miter station. I've taken the Bosch ROS and sanded the top sections with 400 grit. I used these tack clothes I got but have to admit I've never used a tack cloth before so I was surprised that they have a waxy feel to them. I had vacuumed them first and then used the tack cloth and did see the cloth loading some. Is there a residue left by the cloth?Is the surface now ready for finish? The finish I have to apply is General Finishes High Performance Satin water based top coat. My understanding is to apply the 1st coat using the sponge type brush, let dry several hours, sand w/400 grit lightly, vac and wipe with tack cloth, apply 2nd coat. Repeat for at least 3 coats but likely up to 5. Considering the type of use I'll probably do 5 coats and for the hanging cabinets probably just the three coats. For the record the tack clothes are Crystal Tack Cloth bought here. Any advice welcomed. The miter station can be seen here

There is some published information about tack cloths leaving a residue on the sanded wood. Some folks say to leave the cloth out of the package for a while before using it to lessen the amount of residue. Another thing that can be done is to wipe down the wood with alcohol to remove the residue. Depending on the tack cloth maker mineral spirits might be used instead of alcohol 

I agree with what Lew writes about above.  With 400 grit sanding and the heavy cleaning of the surfaces you should have a excellent finish.  

 

Miter station build looks great!  Lot of good stuff to show off when done.  Be sure to post when done.  Look forward to seeing the final production.

Info on the clothes

"Product description

Color:Basic pack

Premium Tack Cloths, Bond Crystal Brand 18" x 36" 12 Cloths Per Box. Product Features. Assures blemish-free mirror smooth finish. Will not dry-out, harden or darken. Spontaneous combustion proof. Designed to leave no residue. Non-Toxic WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals which is [are] known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov." Nothing on the packaging.

 

If you just live close to CA, and are all grown up, will the birth defects show up retroactively? 

1 hour ago, sreilly24590 said:

his product can expose you to chemicals which is [are] known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects

They have that warning on everything it seems.  Even air...

2 hours ago, sreilly24590 said:

Bosch ROS and sanded the top sections with 400 grit.

why 400???

It’s rarely beneficial to sand finer than #180 grit.

The objective of sanding wood is to remove mill marks, which are caused by woodworking machines, and to remove other flaws such as dents and gouges that may have been introduced in handling. The most efficient method of doing this is to begin sanding with a coarse enough grit of sandpaper to cut through and remove the problems quickly, then sand out the coarse-grit scratches with finer and finer grits until you reach the smoothness you want...

You want smoother? Sand progressively finer between coats to your happiness and not initially...

 

I would sand it to 180-220 and seal it with shellac, then do the 320g by hand and apply top coat, then 400g by hand, then another coat, 400g. by hand, then as many coats as you want, and if any roughness shows up along the way hit it with the 400g. by hand.let the last coat cure for a few days and wax with paste wax W/O silicone. I would only use the tack cloth on the finish after sanding, not on the bare wood.

Just a suggestion.

Herb

Edited April 10, 20197 yr by Dadio

Manufacturer's instructions call for sanding to 220 grit max.

On 4/10/2019 at 12:04 AM, Stick486 said:

why 400???

It’s rarely beneficial to sand finer than #180 grit.

The objective of sanding wood is to remove mill marks, which are caused by woodworking machines, and to remove other flaws such as dents and gouges that may have been introduced in handling. The most efficient method of doing this is to begin sanding with a coarse enough grit of sandpaper to cut through and remove the problems quickly, then sand out the coarse-grit scratches with finer and finer grits until you reach the smoothness you want...

You want smoother? Sand progressively finer between coats to your happiness and not initially...

 

Basically I was going off a posting I had been involved in on another forum. That'll teach me. For solid woods I could maybe see going there or even higher but plywood not so much. I'll apply the 1st coat and see how it does and hand sand from there.

1 minute ago, sreilly24590 said:

For solid woods I could maybe see going there or even higher

not for solid wood either...

On 4/10/2019 at 1:04 AM, Dadio said:

I would sand it to 180-220 and seal it with shellac, then do the 320g by hand and apply top coat, then 400g by hand, then another coat, 400g. by hand, then as many coats as you want, and if any roughness shows up along the way hit it with the 400g. by hand.let the last coat cure for a few days and wax with paste wax W/O silicone. I would only use the tack cloth on the finish after sanding, not on the bare wood.

Just a suggestion.

Herb

I was thinking along this line after having posted. I'll apply a coat, the 1st, probably this afternoon after my last (30) PT appointment if I'm not too beat up. Those youngs ladies know all the points to press to get those muscles unknotted. 

The product information may say that the tack cloths won't dry out or harden, but I'm not sure I would trust that.  If the packaging on your tack cloths are like on the ones I get from Lowe's, you will probably destroy the packing getting the cloths out of it.  I get a zip lock plastic bag, and when I'm done using the cloth on that project, I fold up the cloth neatly and put in in the plastic bag, zip the closure mostly closed, and fold up the bag in such a way as to force out most of the air before closing the bag all the way.  I'm cheap, and I try to get as much use out of a product as I can before throwing it away.  My understanding is that the stickiness on the cloths comes from the varnish that is used in the manufacture of the cloths, and since I am usually using varnish for my finish, I don't worry about residue.  I haven't done this, but I have read that you can make your own tack cloths using cheesecloth and varnish or whatever your finish is going to be.  I would research that though, just to make sure I am not steering you in the wrong direction.

IMO, anything above 180 grit is for smoothing the finish. 

51 minutes ago, PostalTom said:

The product information may say that the tack cloths won't dry out or harden, but I'm not sure I would trust that.  If the packaging on your tack cloths are like on the ones I get from Lowe's, you will probably destroy the packing getting the cloths out of it.  I get a zip lock plastic bag, and when I'm done using the cloth on that project, I fold up the cloth neatly and put in in the plastic bag, zip the closure mostly closed, and fold up the bag in such a way as to force out most of the air before closing the bag all the way.  I'm cheap, and I try to get as much use out of a product as I can before throwing it away.  My understanding is that the stickiness on the cloths comes from the varnish that is used in the manufacture of the cloths, and since I am usually using varnish for my finish, I don't worry about residue.  I haven't done this, but I have read that you can make your own tack cloths using cheesecloth and varnish or whatever your finish is going to be.  I would research that though, just to make sure I am not steering you in the wrong direction.

Interestingly enough there's no mention of a solvent being used although that's likely the cause for the warning.....Good tip on the zip bag.

15 minutes ago, Gene Howe said:

IMO, anything above 180 grit is for smoothing the finish. 

I agree Gene now that I've been set straight. I thought the infor I was referring to was from another forum but turns out to have come from the finishing talk/demo I sat through at the Woodworkers Show a few weeks back by that Bush Oil fellow. He was progressively sanding everything up to 800 and then some before any finish was applied. He was the anti-ROS guy I posted about when I got back. If I had downloaded and read the manufacturers recommendations it would have 1/ made more sense and 2/ been very different for me. The printing on the can s a bit small for me, maybe just a tad over a telephone books printing these days. Lesson learnt.......

With the woods I work with, sanding with successfully finer grits will burnish the wood. Effectively, closing the pores, preventing finishing products from adhering well. At least, that's my experience.YMMV. 

FWIW, I don't use tack cloths.   Just a cloth dampened in water (for w/b) mineral spirits for oil-based

https://www.popularwoodworking.com/flexner-on-finishing-woodworking-blogs/can-you-close-the-pores-in-wood-by-sanding-with-too-fine-a-grit/

 

Lesson learned.  Good tips above can't say anything was left uncovered.

 

My approach for show drawers and cabinets, just sand to 150, smooth it out is all I want.