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smitty10101

accessing new work recessed can lights ic rated

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Calling any electrician out there

 

How do you access the electrican box that is attached to a new work recessed can light from BELOW.

the light can is obviously anchored to the ceiling joists with the straps so you can't  easily bring it thru the sheet rock.

The can is mounted either flush with, or sits on, the finished side of the sheet rock.

You (I) can't move the can to the side to access the electrical box.

 

So--- from below-- how do you get to the wiring??

I want to install a remodel light in the pantry and want to tie the electricity into an existing hall light.

 

Attic access IS available but it's going to take some contortions to get to the space and my old body doesn't like learning new twists.

 

thks

 

smitty

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Okay, because code states that all junction boxes  have to be accessible, there does need to be some way to get to the box shown in the video. If your recessed can is the same type as in the video, you can see how to do it. In most of my experiences I take the small screws out that are holding the can to the housing and usually have to pull the can down through them hole. Most times I have not had enough space to push the canup and out of the way. I work with live electricity a lot, but I will NOT do so with installed recessed lighting. There is precious little room to work with the wires, surrounded by grounded metal. If you have big meat hooks for hands this is an irritating task. You are trying to strip wires, and splice them one handed :( . I find stripping the wires before I pull them into the housing to be beneficial. Depending on the age of your existing recessed lighting, they may be the type where you pull the trim, and head down into the living space. They just pull down as you gently twist the trim. If you have any difficulty, pictures will help :) I have no idea what your electrical skills are (I’m an electrician, I TRY to be a woodworker LOL) in the video they show the plastic electrical connectors inside the box. Buying some of these may make it easier to make the connections than trying to make splices through the hole. You strip the wire and just push it into one of the holes on the connector block. I will try to log off, and get a brand name/part number and add a second post with the info. TRUST ME they make this operation mucho easier.

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@Artie    thks for the quick reply

 

I was planning on stripping the new wire & using either the old wire nuts or use new next size up nuts. The bitch will be feeding it into the box w/o cutting the insulation on the individual wires.

My hands are "normal" size but I do figure on doing this job semi blind.  The blown in insulation & the resulting mess that will have to be cleaned up to swmbo satisfaction. Good luck with that.

 

The new can should only present a problem with the insulation.

 

Construction is new--- 2015--

 

Just rambling & thinking this through before I cut the new hole.

 

Fall back will be access thru the attic

Hopefully only fall back----not fall through

 

Again thanks

 

smitty

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2 minutes ago, Gene Howe said:

@smitty10101, I'm not the moderator for this forum so, I can't change your post as you requested in the PM. But, its no biggie. No harm...no foul.

Glad you got it sorted out.

Hey, we need a moderator for this forum! :Cheer:

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14 minutes ago, smitty10101 said:

@Artie    thks for the quick reply

 

I was planning on stripping the new wire & using either the old wire nuts or use new next size up nuts. The bitch will be feeding it into the box w/o cutting the insulation on the individual wires.

My hands are "normal" size but I do figure on doing this job semi blind.  The blown in insulation & the resulting mess that will have to be cleaned up to swmbo satisfaction. Good luck with that.

 

The new can should only present a problem with the insulation.

 

Construction is new--- 2015--

 

Just rambling & thinking this through before I cut the new hole.

 

Fall back will be access thru the attic

Hopefully only fall back----not fall through

 

Again thanks

 

smitty

The negative to tying in the wiring from below is having to do it from a ladder, and with one hand through the hole. The negative to doing it from an attic (I, of course know nothing of how your attic is ) is getting to it, putting a board or two across the joists, and the uncomfortableness of doing the wiring while lying on said boards. I’m guessing that if you are able to accomplish this without getting into the attic, you are able to snake the wire to where you need it?

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3 minutes ago, Gene Howe said:

I nominate @Stick486!!!

careful what you wish for...

at least I wouldn't have that position for very long in very short order... things would never be the same around here...

not only that, we don't need the boss pulling out any more of his hair... (I remember when he had more hair than Crystal Gayle)...

and I don't need to be hunted down by this crew either...

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2 hours ago, Danl said:

 

If you are adding new LED lighting, some mfg make them so that they can be screwed into the old can  base socket.

It's a whole new light (s) going in. Our old eyes can't see in the dark anymore so I'm afraid that someday I might get fed something that will knock the light out of me----accidently of course!!!!!

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3 hours ago, DuckSoup said:

push.jpg.ad8528008d9c5d8767e50972ff648968.jpgpush2.jpg.1890316f7af5fa3f766830c8150881a6.jpg

 

 +1, as Artie said these will help the process.

These are great if the wires are too short also.   Always try to pull the wire out of the connector to make sure it is locked in especially if it is hard to see.     Roly

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I gave up on trying to use wirenuts on splices made through the hole. Our schools in the town I work for have 277 volt lighting, I never do any work on them with the power on. I feel the push connectors just produce a better connection under these particular circumstances. 

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