GM, guys as an experiment I want to build a drawer when looked at from the front will look normal but be shaped liked this. I was wondering what joinery you might use??

Hello Pat, what size is the drawer and weight load it might carry?

If I understand, you want to build this drawer and just have a normal drawer face on it, correct?

The drawer will be 25 wide by 21 deep about 5" high. As far as weight that's still to be determined. Its going to be at the bottom of a flip cart carrying my jointer and a sanding station.

Yes it will have a rectangle front.

Edited September 2, 20187 yr by Pat Meeuwissen

To be sure of its integrity, you could use box joints where the smaller/narrower box joins the wider part. Although, a drawer lock joint would probably be good for all the joints.

Are going to use mechanical slides? 

Pat, what joinery methods do you have available and what are you most comfortable with? Thanks

@John Morris Box joints, drawer lock joint, kreg pocket screws and am working on dovetails but not ready to try that on this yet. 

@Gene Howe

I like the idea of the drawer lock joint, could you draw the way you would that would use them? Is this on point?

And it will have full extension metal slides.

 

Pat, sure glad you used your drawing. That's exactly what I meant. 

That's a good strong joint. Box joints or, dovetails seem like over kill for a shop drawer. 

The only concern would be the placement of the slides. On the smaller part would seem to offer more support strength to the drawer, as opposed to having them on the upper portion. Thinking of weight being supported, rather than hanging. If that makes sense.

what Gene said....

i'd redesign.

With that design what weight would be in the drawer. Slides will have limited capacity on the front or back. I would try undermount slides and get full capacity.

1 hour ago, DAB said:

i'd redesign.

HOW?

two drawers.  one wide, one narrow.

Gene's joints and a T shaped front and back panel you should be good to go..

Pat for drawers for shop furniture I would use pocket hole screws and glue. I am betting it won't come loose.

Don, no doubt pocket screws would get the job done. However, I do believe that the drawer lock joint, for this particular application, would be faster to make and assemble.

Edited September 3, 20187 yr by Gene Howe

rebated rabbet is worth a look see...

2 hours ago, Gene Howe said:

Don, no doubt pocket screws would get the job done. However, I do believe that the drawer lock joint, for this particular application, would be faster to make and assemble.

Gene, I have done it your way and had no problem. As far as doing it faster, You haven't seen the pace at which I work, have you?  LOL

You surely can't be any slower than me. Pocket screwing leaves to many opportunities between holes to take a break.  

Progress is being made, I'll post pics of my drawer as soon as some things dry. I'm using a combo of methods including pocket screws, dado and rabbet. Moved the drawer slides down to the bottom sides and the side overhangs are small enough that the front and rear face will hold them without any trouble.

This is where I'm at. Got the face frame painted.