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Found 9 results

  1. Well guys, I've come to ask for help once again. I'm making a Catan game board and pieces, I need to create this joint 6 times so that all the pieces are interchangeable and interlock better. I was trying to make them by cutting the them with the scroll saw but then had to shorten the individual pieces and now the dovetail ends are no longer the right shape. I'd like to machine them with some sort of jig, have a tiny bit of play for the fit in the legs.
  2. stumbled across this DIY jig It looked interesting
  3. GM, guys as an experiment I want to build a drawer when looked at from the front will look normal but be shaped liked this. I was wondering what joinery you might use??
  4. I'll be building a few cabinets and drawers shortly for the shop. I prefer to use hardwood (either poplar or maple) for drawers normally, but I think to save time and get things done a little more quickly I'll use 1/2" plywood (maybe BB, maybe not...haven't decided). But here's my question: when I use hardwood my joints are either DT (for household furniture) or drawer lock joints (for cabinets). But what do you use for plywood? I can't imagine either of my other ones working all the well; and for the record I have tried to cut DT joints in BB and wasn't all that enamored with the results. Besides, I dn't want to spend the time...I want something fast. What about just using wood screws to hold the sides to the drawers front. These will be drawers boxes that have a false front.
  5. From the album: Walnut Rocking Chair

    The joints in these chair is known as the "money shot". They are really pleasing to the eye, but in the manufacturing process of the leg to seat joints, the process can go from great to disaster in milliseconds, and the project could be ruined. I am happy when the seat joint operations are completed! In this image, the first coat of finish is not applied yet, the sheen you see is purely from sanding through the grits, up to a 1000 abralon pad.
  6. Rather than bury this in the Desk thread....corner work for the desk means dovetails.. I jointed the edges. Nice to have a square end to work from.. Laid out the pins first ( Easy to mark out the tails later) then a bit of saw work... This is now my "Go-to" saw for joinery...my other good saw stayed down at Charles Neil's place... Have to remember which is removed, and which isn't. Cut the edge ones off, which left this.. This is how I chop out the waste...I leave a tab out on the end, because... It supports the waste until it pops out. Got all this done.. NOW I can use this to lay out the tails.. Not sure about anyone else, but I am terrible at angled cuts....cheated and used the bandsaw. I stayed on the waste side of the lines, trying to leave the lines.. Then back to chopping.. Same as before. Then flip over and chop some more, until the waste pops out.. Maybe a little clean up? Dry fit to see ... Close enough for the girls I run with? One corner done, three to go... And that is how I do dovetails....
  7. Working on the rear legs of this rocker. I am planing the faces true and flat for the seamless leg to arm joints. This face must be dead on flat and smooth in order for the arm to mate up properly. The imperfections must be planned away. Got it. Arm blanks in the back. It doesn't look like much yet. But it will be!
  8. While I was teaching we'd put a backer board on our bowl projects with a sheet of paper between the good wood and the backer to make separation easy. We did hundreds of bowls like that, and there were a few that failed and we had to reglue, but for the most part that worked for us most of the time. In the last couple years I haven't been able to make it work, the paper joint keeps coming apart while we're turning. Yesterday I got the kids going on the lathes and both of them had the bowl separate from the backer board. We reglued and we'll just have to work a little harder at getting them separated in the end. Is the paper weaker these days or what is going on?
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