April 5, 20188 yr I'll be building a few cabinets and drawers shortly for the shop. I prefer to use hardwood (either poplar or maple) for drawers normally, but I think to save time and get things done a little more quickly I'll use 1/2" plywood (maybe BB, maybe not...haven't decided). But here's my question: when I use hardwood my joints are either DT (for household furniture) or drawer lock joints (for cabinets). But what do you use for plywood? I can't imagine either of my other ones working all the well; and for the record I have tried to cut DT joints in BB and wasn't all that enamored with the results. Besides, I dn't want to spend the time...I want something fast. What about just using wood screws to hold the sides to the drawers front. These will be drawers boxes that have a false front.
April 5, 20188 yr Pocket screws are an option or lock rabbet joint. I use the lock rabbet joint on the drawers in my router table and outfeed table cabinet, both used 1/2" bb ply
April 5, 20188 yr With the quality of "regular" plywood I have been exposed to, I'd certainly stick with baltic birch.
April 5, 20188 yr Since they are shop drawers I would agree with Kelly. I would use pocket hole screws first and a locked rabbet second. I have been using 3/4 on my shop cabinets for the beef. Having a roll-a-round shop with limited space I tend to load the drawers up with quite a bit of weight. 3/4 gives me a little confidence that when I pile four or five routers, containers of fasteners, etc. into a drawer the draw will stick together and not fall apart.
April 5, 20188 yr I just counted. There's 36 drawers in my shop. All BB. Most are whatever MM equates to near 3/4". The rest are the 1/2" equivalents. Those just hold small tools or paper. All the corner joints were made on the RT with Stick's posted method. It's probably just as fast or, faster to construct as pocket holes.
April 5, 20188 yr 3 minutes ago, Gene Howe said: faster to construct as pocket holes. self squaring too..
April 5, 20188 yr I have seen a lot of recommendations for pocket screws, front set hidden by the false front, back set hidden at back. Never tried it. But I have use lock rabbet. Or this with "belt and suspenders" approach. In any case, definitely use glue. I like No Run No Drip for short grain situations (1/2 of plywood edge)
April 5, 20188 yr 47 minutes ago, Stick486 said: rebated rabbet and BB ply for years... no issues.. This is what I call a lock rabbet joint. Probably goes by several other names too. I use glue and a few 23 gauge pins so I am not tying up my clamps. Edited April 5, 20188 yr by Chips N Dust
April 5, 20188 yr I've been known to add a few diagonal screws to my utility boxes for a little extra hold.
April 5, 20188 yr Author To be more clear (maybe) the drawer lock joint to which I referred is the lock rabbit mentioned in most posts. I actually hadn't thought of pocket screws, they might be an option. My concern with the dado/tongue joint (or lock rabbet, or drawer joint) is that the dado in the sides just has short wood plies glued together holding it....maybe I overthought that too much. Thanks guys, I think I may go with the lock rabbet. Lew, the 1/2" plywood I have is Columbia Forest Products cabinet grade...it's a lot better than some stuff that's sold. I have 2 sheets of it in the stash, and 1 sheet of BB, the 5x5 stuff.
April 5, 20188 yr Fred, there's several ways to strengthen that joint. But, with all those glue surfaces, those joints should be plenty strong. And, you could always glue in the bottom. Mine are 12 years old, many are used every day and, they all use wood to wood gliding surfaces. None have ever failed.
April 5, 20188 yr 59 minutes ago, Chips N Dust said: This is what I call a lock rabbet joint. Probably goes by several other names too. I use glue and a few 23 gauge pins so I am not tying up my clamps. I do the same w/ the 23GA.. here's rebated rabbets and the bit.. (Infinity).. now for the lock miters..
April 5, 20188 yr 39 minutes ago, HandyDan said: 've been known to add a few diagonal screws to my utility boxes for a little extra hold. 23GA pins along w/ glue are gorilla strong w/ a lot less material compromise...
April 5, 20188 yr 9 minutes ago, Stick486 said: 23GA pins along w/ glue are gorilla strong w/ a lot less material compromise... I have some thin small head stainless screws I like to use. I add the screws after the drawers are assembled with glue and clamps.
April 5, 20188 yr Author Gene, I always glue in my drawer bottoms.....your right, that should keep things plenty strong.
April 5, 20188 yr 7 hours ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said: To be more clear (maybe) the drawer lock joint to which I referred is the lock rabbit mentioned in most posts. I actually hadn't thought of pocket screws, they might be an option. My concern with the dado/tongue joint (or lock rabbet, or drawer joint) is that the dado in the sides just has short wood plies glued together holding it....maybe I overthought that too much. Thanks guys, I think I may go with the lock rabbet. Lew, the 1/2" plywood I have is Columbia Forest Products cabinet grade...it's a lot better than some stuff that's sold. I have 2 sheets of it in the stash, and 1 sheet of BB, the 5x5 stuff. You can't go wrong with that, Fred. Once the glue dries they won't go anywhere.
April 5, 20188 yr They 3 minutes ago, p_toad said: What? No love for drywall screws? They are just fantastic for drywall.
April 8, 20188 yr I have used the 1/2" BB on many drawers. I used the PC dovetail jig and it worked out fine. RJR
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