I'm getting close to the finishing stage for a walnut mantle clock I've been working on, and I'm looking for suggestions for an appropriate finish.  The clock will be on a shelf in the bathroom, and so will be exposed to the humidity coming from the shower.  Would danish oil be a good finish, or should I go with a poly?  Also thinking of a seal coat of shellac, followed by several coats of satin poly.  The shellac would probably be from a rattle can, and the poly would be wipe-on.  The clock shouldn't be subject to too much physical wear and tear, so I am just mainly concerned about the bathroom environment.  

My favorite finish for walnut is Dark Walnut Watco under either Helmsmans Man O War varnish or General Finishes urethane. 

For wiping, I mix it with the Watco at 50/50 for the first wipe then reduce the Watco by 25% for each successive coat. Final coat (4th for me) is straight varnish. 

Takes a day for each coat to cure, including the Watco. That's in AZ.

Edited December 2, 20178 yr by Gene Howe

Thanks for the reply Gene.  I've never used Dark Walnut Watco.  How dark is it?  Will it tend to obscure the grain?  Or will the varnish mixture allow it to "pop" the grain?  Of course, I will try it first on some scrap.  The walnut I used was fairly straight grained, so I want to enhance it if I can.

Definitely go with the oil first. Really brings out the walnut grain and color.

Edited December 2, 20178 yr by lew

Hey folks, I just edited Tom's topic here to include the tags. As you all know we are requesting of you all to tag your topics. Hope you don't mind Tom, but I jumped in tagged your topic, tag your it!

So you all know how this works, once you enter in your keyword "tags" into your topic as seen above below the title, all you have to do now is click on one of the tags, and any topic tagged with like tag, shows up in your searches.

For example, click on the tag "clock" and see what happens. Click on the tag "walnut" and see what happens! Aint that cool?

Thanks folks, and thanks Tom for allowing me to barge in here and make this speech.

5 hours ago, PostalTom said:

Thanks for the reply Gene.  I've never used Dark Walnut Watco.  How dark is it?  Will it tend to obscure the grain?  Or will the varnish mixture allow it to "pop" the grain?  Of course, I will try it first on some scrap.  The walnut I used was fairly straight grained, so I want to enhance it if I can.

It won't obscure the grain. Like Lew said, it enhances it. Either one of the finishes will not alter the color. 

If you don't care for the dark walnut, try the medium. But, I think you'll like the dark on Walnut.

At the ratios I suggested, you won't get any appreciable darkening with each coat.

Edited December 2, 20178 yr by Gene Howe

50 minutes ago, Gene Howe said:

It won't obscure the grain. Like Lew said, it enhances it. Either one of the finishes will not alter the color. 

If you don't care for the dark walnut, try the medium. But, I think you'll like the dark on Walnut.

At the ratios I suggested, you won't get any appreciable darkening with each coat.

Edited 46 minutes ago by Gene Howe

Sounds good.  Thanks a lot Gene.

5 hours ago, John Morris said:

thanks Tom for allowing me to barge in here and make this speech

No problem @John Morris.  I didn't mean to be the "poster" child (pun intended) for what not to do.

Ur welcome.

I like shellac.  Makes walnut look nice.  Shellac is also pretty resistant to water vapor.

 

An oil-varnish blend will also do well (such as Watco or Deft-Oil).   Gene is fortifying the mix when he adds varnish to it.   Watco is about 2 parts linseed oil to 1 part varnish (and thinned 2x with mineral spirits).  The more % oil in there, the less moisture exclusion it will have.

 

There is no "definite" answer, other than to try some on scrap and see which YOU like best.

Somewhere in the bowels of this site, is an article I wrote about finishing.  Ask the Dude..(Mr. Dudelson (sp) about nylon socks.. 

 

Larry Jenkins

I finally finished the clock. 

 

 

That is Awesome!!!

Looks great - share with us what finish schedule you used?

Edited January 6, 20188 yr by kmealy

45 minutes ago, lew said:

That is Awesome!!!

Thanks Lew.  I appreciate that.

 

29 minutes ago, kmealy said:

Looks great - share with us what finish schedule you used?

One coat of Watco Medium Walnut DO, and three coats of satin poly.  I tried the Dark Walnut, but it was too dark and we didn't care for it. 

Very ,very nice!

I went back and looked over you bio and says you are a beginner...But after looking over your clock you might as well move out of the cellar...Looks good from over your shoulder...

  The one thing that will move you farther up the ladder is after the finish is dried check with the finish guys and see how they smooth their finishes out to look like those know it all guys do it...

 

Also I might add if you get more involved building clocks, Clockit.com has a very good small battery operated

movement, their Q-80 is guaranteed for 10 years. Best warranty I have found.  And don't forget this model comes with different lengths of shaft, the part that sticks through the dial, and the hands comes with the movements, the second hand comes separate..

  Another trick of sorts. I always order the same square looking hands. Always longer than what I need then clip them down to size for what I need at that time.. And its good to stick with the same brand for some movements takes different size holes and stocking different hands with different size holes gets confusing....

   Smallpatch

Thanks @Smallpatch for the kind words.  I just followed the plans from the Wood magazine ... well ... except for the flubs that I had to remake.  Those weren't in the plans.  As it turned out, I did use the Q-80 movement, on the advice of the salesperson from Klockit.  The plans in Wood specified a kit that Klockit no longer had, so I had to order the component pieces separately, with their help.  By the way, I just today realized that Clockkit and Klockit were two different companies  and websites.  As for "finishing the finish", I usually rub it down with 0000 steel wood and wax, but I got lazy this time.  I just didn't feel like digging the wax out of the detail on the moldings.  I might go back in a few days and do that.  I'm impressed that you noticed that omission.  Good eyes.  Thanks again for your suggestions.

Wow Tom, I been ordering from Klockit and a company Clock Parts since 99 but you bring up Clockit and I don't think I remember this company. I just now brought it up and its still a question mark. My brain just works certain days..

I didn't mention the 0000 steel wool and Johnson's wax but have been using that combination since working at the furniture store starting in 1954..  But with lacquer I never worried if some was left on the surface and since your poly stuff I don't use so was not wanting to mention something I knew nothing about, and don't want to learn but I might nave to......

  You can catch Klockit offering small percentage off sales but they hardly ever pay the freight and 20% off at the same time. If you get into scrollsawings and making your own dials which adds a good personal touch then you can get all the dial patterns off the internet for free providing you have a cheap printer then you can make any size dial to fit what ever you are building.. I found another clock sales, Time Savers.com has clear round convex glass  for 4.50 each and I ordered some so I could build the lens frame out of wood for more of the personal touches The other cheap places that had the round convex glass was amazon and ebay but they were at least 17.50 for each lens plus freight..so if you think its out there just keep looking till you find it at a decent price...

 

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