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Difference in batteries' amps

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10 minutes ago, schnewj said:

 

As a non commercial entity you are probably right about capacity. You aren't constantly running a tool like a contractor would in a normal operation. However, if I were doing something like building a deck and screwing down the boards I would want a higher amp battery. I would end up with more power/run-time and have less of a chance that my battery runs out before I have a fully charged replacement.

I agree with that completely. But typically building a deck isn't something a DIY type does very often, regardless ...the point is valid. I do (did, when I did it) use my drills for drywall hanging, and wished then I had longer run times, but those instances are few and far between.....in the case of drywall (for me), never happen again.laughter.gif

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  • Fred W. Hargis Jr
    Fred W. Hargis Jr

    Well, since you asked (and I still think my comment has merit, not everyone has the need for higher capacity batteries) I no longer have any Ni-Cads, and the tools I had that did take them had their b

  • I still opt for the old manual screw driver when working with machine screws. Just habit I guess.

  • I have a Bosch 24V reciprocating saw that is over 10 years old. The batteries eventually died, so I replaced them with a different brand that was much cheaper. I soon found that the cheaper batteries

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I switched my Dewalt 18V tool set over to Li Ion batteries when the NiCads went bad and never looked back. 

  • Author

Well, I am weighing in again on this battery  business: I prefer better batteries because I got cordless to begin with because I do not want a bunch of cords hanging, being unplugged, and having to replug, havng to check to see if it is plugged in when it doesn't run, etc.  Although I no longer have a day job, I still enjoy longer run time, etc. because I can sit with my fishing pole quicker! Err, you do remember the days of electric cords, or are you too young.

 

Retired? Never: Not until the devil retires!

  • Author

Cordless? Just remember the good ole days when cords hung everywhere, always losing connections, wondering if it's the tool, wire or connection, winding the cord before sto'sring, unwinding the cord before use, etc. 

I have noticed more folks are going back to the original type of cordless. I use the wood planes my uncle's father used before the Great Depression of the 20's and 30's.

I ordered the higher capacity li ion because I want more time with my fishing pole!

I use mostly corded power tools. I have the cordless, they are good for some things especially doing fix it chores here and there. They are more versatile for speed control when power screwing and controlled drilling. But for power  drilling, you can't beat a corded tool ,in my opinion. Around the shop to me they are like cell phone when you really need them the battery is dead. Battery tools have more negatives than corded tools when you take into account battery costs, charging costs,having to replace tools because of battery updates, space dedicated to chagrining umpteen different batteries, being stuck to one brand because you have that brand of batteries, having to stop and replace batteries in the middle of an operation,disposing of the spent batteries,Different sized tools have different sized batteries,so you have to have more batteries I become a slave to battery management.

On the job I used cordless when I had to move around doing my job,and stringing cords was inconvenient. But I had to buy my own cordless tools. The company would buy the corded ones. they tried to buy the cordless , but they disappeared too fast.

Also I would walk the job after everyone went home and find the cordless tools laying around.

In the shop, I never have to string cords,I have outlets everywhere and can always just plug it in-plug it in.

 

Herb

 

 

Logically, I agree with Herb. However, Illogically, I reach for the cordless every time. 

Some times, the corded has too much power, though. Great for drilling but not for setting screws....especially brass ones. 

3 hours ago, Gene Howe said:

Logically, I agree with Herb. However, Illogically, I reach for the cordless every time. 

Some times, the corded has too much power, though. Great for drilling but not for setting screws....especially brass ones. 

You are right ,Gene, I did mention that. too, before battery drills and drivers we had to use that old verse-matic clutch or a yankee screw driver.

I find that the battery circular saws,I have a 5 1/2" Bosch direct drive, and a a 3 1/2" Makita worm drive, are under powered, slower feed rate,and ergonomically clumsily.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/items/?_nkw=Vintage+Supreme+Versamatic+reversible+speed+reducer&_sacat=&_ex_kw=&_mPrRngCbx=1&_udlo=&_udhi=&_sop=12&_fpos=&_fspt=1&_sadis=&LH_CAds=&rmvSB=true


http://www.ebay.com/sch/items/?_nkw=yankee+driver&_sacat=&_ex_kw=&_mPrRngCbx=1&_udlo=&_udhi=&_sop=12&_fpos=&_fspt=1&_sadis=&LH_CAds=&rmvSB=true

 

I do have the set of PC 9v. Lithium drill and driver I use on the bench, but if I want to do serious drilling I go for the Corded drill.

Herb

Edited by Dadio

I found a use for a P.O.S. B&D 9v. Drill that came from a yard sale in a box of other junk.

My Jessem router lift has a above the table crank for raising and lowering the router. It's hexagonal rod, so I called Jessem and bought the rod less the crank handle. It lives in the B&D now. No more cranking for me. But, after about 6-8 bit changes, it loses it's oomph.

 

LMAO, Gene, I tried that with my Bosch 1617 in the router base (not a Lift) in the table and stripped off the "C" ring from the end of the shaft of the height adjustment on the router. Probably works better in the Jessem lift. I had to fix it by making a stop nut for the shaft.

 

Herb

 

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I still opt for the old manual screw driver when working with machine screws. Just habit I guess.

39 minutes ago, It Was Al B said:

I still opt for the old manual screw driver when working with machine screws. Just habit I guess.

They will never go out of style, I use them a lot too.

Herb

9 hours ago, Dadio said:

Probably works better in the Jessem lift

 

Jessem makes one sweet lift...

11 hours ago, Gene Howe said:

I found a use for a P.O.S. B&D 9v. Drill that came from a yard sale in a box of other junk.

My Jessem router lift has a above the table crank for raising and lowering the router. It's hexagonal rod, so I called Jessem and bought the rod less the crank handle. It lives in the B&D now. No more cranking for me. But, after about 6-8 bit changes, it loses it's oomph.

 

 

you just nulled your warranty...

manual specifically says not to...

2 hours ago, Stick486 said:

 

you just nulled your warranty...

manual specifically says not to...

The neoprene cog wheel did break. Jessem sent me a couple metal ones. FREE. Good folks, up there.

23 minutes ago, Gene Howe said:

Good folks, up there.

 

Jessem CS is outstanding...

3 minutes ago, Stick486 said:

 

Jessem CS is outstanding...

Their products are so well made, the probably don't get a lot of CS calls.

I was using my Hitachi 12V drill when making strings for the throw tops I made.  It is necessary to keep tension while twisting the string with the drill.  I should have got the corded drill out to use for the simple reason of the amount of run time to twist the string but, you know, it was more convenient.  The drill started making bad noises after a while so I quit using it and got the corded drill out.  When I had time to tear it apart I found the drive separated from the motor.  Apparently there wasn't a catch to keep the drive from pulling out since the drill is used in a pushing mode.  I put it back in place and all has been well with it for months now.  I thought it made sense until I had a bit get tight in a hole and had to put pull tension on it to get it out.  It didn't pull apart so maybe it was the constant prolonged pull that pulled it apart before.  Something odd I guess.  

5 hours ago, Stick486 said:

 

you just nulled your warranty...

manual specifically says not to...

As far as I am concerned the first thing to go in the trash can is the warranty. In my opinion they are not worth the paper they are printed on. If the tool expires in the first month I send it back, after that it follows the warranty and I go shopping for a different brand. I have better things to do than hassle with a company over warranties.

Herb

I found out that battery drills don't hold up well for continuous use grinding or wire brushing rust off parts either, also dropping them in the river, or backing over them in the drive way. Also if they are dropped while working on a ladder and hit the concrete, they have a hard time starting,where as a corded drill has the cord to break the fall.

Herb

2 hours ago, Dadio said:

As far as I am concerned the first thing to go in the trash can is the warranty. In my opinion they are not worth the paper they are printed on. If the tool expires in the first month I send it back, after that it follows the warranty and I go shopping for a different brand. I have better things to do than hassle with a company over warranties.

Herb

 

try Jessem, LV and Bosch on for size and you'll change yur mind...

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