September 10, 20169 yr comment_73145 I understand it is not a good idea to use a plane on the edges of plywood because of the glue. My question: will doing so damage the plane in any way other than dulling the iron? If this is the only problem, a few minutes with the WorkSharp 3K will clear that up. Sometimes,when fitting small pieces, it is necessary to remove minute amounts, impractical or even dangerous with a table saw. Seems like a hand plane would be the ideal tool for such a job. Edited November 21, 20178 yr by Ron Dudelston tags added Report
September 10, 20169 yr comment_73150 Albert if it were me I would use a stationary disk or belt sander unless you are talking the edge of an 8 foot length. There is belt sanders to handle that length but I doubt if hobbiest has room for those. I,m not a plane user but it seems you would have lots of tear out on american plywood, BB might not be so bad. Report
September 10, 20169 yr comment_73157 Have done it a few times....does dull the blade a bit, nothing more than doing any other end grain job. Long piece...long plane, short piece..block plane. Hold the plane at a slight skew to the direction of travel. More of a slicing cut. Score a line at where you need the cut to stop at. Less tear out that way. IF you have the time, add a pair of 1xs, one clamped to each face, right at that score line. Helps to balance a plane, too. Report
September 10, 20169 yr comment_73161 If anyone knows about plane work, I think it would be Steven. That is great onformation to know Report
September 10, 20169 yr comment_73162 1 minute ago, Chips N Dust said: If anyone knows about plane work, I think it would be Steven. That is great onformation to know Yes indeedie...Thanks Steve. Report
September 10, 20169 yr Author comment_73168 Thanks for the reply's. Thought as much. I like Steve's idea of sandwiching the stock between 1x's. Something like doing mortises with a router, making a wide base and making a "zero clearance" insert. Report
September 10, 20169 yr comment_73170 Yep, what Steven said. The only caution I would add is that some of the cheapest plywood has been known to have stuff besides glue and wood in it, like pieces of metal and who knows what else (think Chinese). That could be a little more damaging. Report
September 10, 20169 yr comment_73175 52 minutes ago, steven newman said: Have done it a few times....does dull the blade a bit, nothing more than doing any other end grain job. Long piece...long plane, short piece..block plane. Hold the plane at a slight skew to the direction of travel. More of a slicing cut. Score a line at where you need the cut to stop at. Less tear out that way. IF you have the time, add a pair of 1xs, one clamped to each face, right at that score line. Helps to balance a plane, too. EXACTLY... and make it an LA plane... Report
September 10, 20169 yr comment_73179 The only one of those I have, a Stanley 60-1/2, or a Millers Falls #56B......NOT. I have an old Stanley #220, works just fine. The glue and such would trash those better blades in a heart beat. Same with a larger plane, I have a "Made in England" Stanley #4 I can use. haven't found any metal, yet. A rock or two from it being dragged on the ground.....it is mainly that glue they use. Report
September 10, 20169 yr comment_73195 Thinking more on it, TexasWally states minute amounts, a shave here, a shave there, given that, no, no problem whatsoever. Taint gonna make no difference at all. Report
September 10, 20169 yr comment_73217 A plane would work as Steve describes. However, you might consider a STEW-MAC scraper like this one. SCRAPER Report
September 10, 20169 yr comment_73260 2 hours ago, Gene Howe said: A plane would work as Steve describes. However, you might consider a STEW-MAC scraper like this one. SCRAPER Dang it Gene quit coming up with these things...you're taxing my tool budget! Interesting post. I've used a block plane on small pieces of 1/2" BB before with so-so results. Pretty sure the BB was an import version though. Could have been me and the plane too. Steve gave some good hints. Thanks for the post "TW" Report
September 10, 20169 yr comment_73265 Here is a little video I made, it's rough, un-professional, and down and dirty. It's purely anecdotal, no science behind it whatsoever. Take from it what you want! If your willing to sit through 3 minutes of someone planing wood, by all means, knock your socks off! Report
September 10, 20169 yr comment_73267 42 minutes ago, Grandpadave52 said: Dang it Gene quit coming up with these things...you're taxing my tool budget! Interesting post. I've used a block plane on small pieces of 1/2" BB before with so-so results. Pretty sure the BB was an import version though. Could have been me and the plane too. Steve gave some good hints. Thanks for the post "TW" Hey Dave, try the straight one. You'll never go back to those flimsy ones that need to be sharpend every 5 minutes. Report
September 10, 20169 yr comment_73269 Went down and tried a Stanley #4, T-13 ( Stock, has a SW iron, too) and was taking curls off a sheet of 1/2" A/C plywood's edge. I then checked the edge of the iron......looks fine to me, no nicks even... Report
September 10, 20169 yr comment_73274 10 minutes ago, steven newman said: A/C plywood's Ply doesn't get any rougher than that! And if you got no nicks, I would not worry too much about this at all @Texaswally. Especially for your use, just a shave here and there to make things fit. Report
September 10, 20169 yr comment_73279 to hog on plywood edge a surform fine cut works really well... Report
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