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hand planing plywood edges

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I understand it is not a good idea to use a plane on the edges of plywood because of the glue. My question: will doing so damage the plane in any way other than dulling the iron? If this is the only problem, a few minutes with the WorkSharp 3K will clear that up. Sometimes,when fitting small pieces, it is necessary to remove minute amounts, impractical or even dangerous with a table saw. Seems like a hand plane would be the ideal tool for such a job. 

Edited by Ron Dudelston
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Albert if it were me I would use a stationary disk or belt sander unless you are talking the edge of an 8 foot length. There is belt sanders to handle that length but I doubt if hobbiest has room for those.

  I,m not a plane user but it seems you would have lots of tear out on american plywood,  BB might not be so bad.

I'll try it today and report back!

Have done it a few times....does dull the blade a bit, nothing more than doing any other end grain job.   Long piece...long plane, short piece..block plane.

 

Hold the plane at a slight skew to the direction of travel.   More of a slicing cut.   Score a line at where you need the cut to stop at.   Less tear out that way.

 

IF you have the time, add a pair of 1xs, one clamped to each face, right at that score line.  Helps to balance a plane, too.

If anyone knows about plane work, I think it would be Steven. 

That is great onformation to know

1 minute ago, Chips N Dust said:

If anyone knows about plane work, I think it would be Steven. 

That is great onformation to know

Yes indeedie...Thanks Steve.

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Thanks for the reply's. Thought as much. I like Steve's idea of sandwiching the stock between 1x's. Something like  doing mortises with a router, making a wide base and making a "zero clearance" insert.

Yep, what Steven said. The only caution I would add is that some of the cheapest plywood has been known to have stuff besides glue and wood in it, like pieces of metal and who knows what else (think Chinese). That could be a little more damaging.

52 minutes ago, steven newman said:

Have done it a few times....does dull the blade a bit, nothing more than doing any other end grain job.   Long piece...long plane, short piece..block plane.

 

Hold the plane at a slight skew to the direction of travel.   More of a slicing cut.   Score a line at where you need the cut to stop at.   Less tear out that way.

 

IF you have the time, add a pair of 1xs, one clamped to each face, right at that score line.  Helps to balance a plane, too.

EXACTLY... and make it an LA plane...

The only one of those I have, a Stanley 60-1/2, or a Millers Falls #56B......NOT.    I have an old Stanley #220, works just fine.    The glue and such would trash those better blades in a heart beat.  Same with a larger plane, I have a "Made in England" Stanley #4 I can use. 

 

haven't found any metal, yet.    A rock or two from it being dragged on the ground.....it is mainly that glue they use. 

Veritas PM-V11 irons...

no worries...

Thinking more on it, TexasWally states minute amounts, a shave here, a shave there, given that, no, no problem whatsoever. Taint gonna make no difference at all.

A plane would work as Steve describes. However, you might consider a STEW-MAC scraper like this one. SCRAPER

2 hours ago, Gene Howe said:

A plane would work as Steve describes. However, you might consider a STEW-MAC scraper like this one. SCRAPER

Dang it Gene quit coming up with these things...you're taxing my tool budget! :lol: Interesting post. I've used a block plane on small pieces of 1/2" BB before with so-so results. Pretty sure the BB was an import version though. Could have been me and the plane too. Steve gave some good hints. Thanks for the post "TW"

Here is a little video I made, it's rough, un-professional, and down and dirty. It's purely anecdotal, no science behind it whatsoever. Take from it what you want! :lol: If your willing to sit through 3 minutes of someone planing wood, by all means, knock your socks off!

 

Seeing is believing, John. Thanks.

42 minutes ago, Grandpadave52 said:

Dang it Gene quit coming up with these things...you're taxing my tool budget! :lol: Interesting post. I've used a block plane on small pieces of 1/2" BB before with so-so results. Pretty sure the BB was an import version though. Could have been me and the plane too. Steve gave some good hints. Thanks for the post "TW"

Hey Dave, try the straight one. You'll never go back to those flimsy ones that need to be sharpend every 5 minutes. 

Went down and tried a Stanley #4, T-13 ( Stock, has a SW iron, too)   and was taking curls off a sheet of 1/2"  A/C plywood's edge.   I then checked the edge of the iron......looks fine to me, no nicks even...

10 minutes ago, steven newman said:

A/C plywood's

Ply doesn't get any rougher than that! And if you got no nicks, I would not worry too much about this at all @Texaswally. Especially for your use, just a shave here and there to make things fit.

to hog on plywood edge a surform fine cut works really well...

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